What are high HP guys doing for traction?
#21
That link above is not the M9, it is the standard Moser 9 inch. Bob
#22
#23
If you want to get some quality suggestions you should probably mention you have a stock rearend, and as I recall a completely stock suspension. When I tried to offer you sugestions you said you didnt want to hook untill you upgraded the rearend. I saw some logs of his from the track last year. As soon as the car came on boost it blew the tires off and he shifted. There are some 17" tire options and as the others have stated the MT ET street radials are the bomb. Last time out on the 17"'s I cut a 1.44 60' so the MT's have really worked well for me and ride rock solid.
I was wanting to get my list of parts together so i can get it all when i order my 9". But your right, i would rather spin right now you should see the car at the track now. Haha, a little different than last time. I couldnt get it any faster than 13.4 but I was running 129mph all from when i hit 4th. Not a bad mph for spinning around 3/4 of the track lol
btw, didnt you say your MT streets felt squirmy? I know I dont like the feeling of mine at all
Last edited by fletchls1; 06-20-2008 at 06:35 PM.
#24
the MT et streets are a bias ply tire running them with radial front tirese is squirley.
I did have a set years ago.
What I run now on the street are 315/35/17 MT ET street "RADIALS" Last month at DR42 on a tues TNT I cut a 1.44 60' The MT radials they are rock solid at speed I run over 20 PSI at the track and they HOOK. I use the hoosier Drag radial on my track rims. Best 60' on them was a 1.38 and they to are very stable at speed.
If anybody wonders my car is full weight with air conditioning.
For your car a 9' rear, relocation brakets, rod/rod adjustble lower control arms, Mad Man torque arm, If you dont want to spend the extra money for the mad man let me know I have an spohn with the relocation off the trans and a driveshaft loop I will sell it to you and i will get the mad man.
I did have a set years ago.
What I run now on the street are 315/35/17 MT ET street "RADIALS" Last month at DR42 on a tues TNT I cut a 1.44 60' The MT radials they are rock solid at speed I run over 20 PSI at the track and they HOOK. I use the hoosier Drag radial on my track rims. Best 60' on them was a 1.38 and they to are very stable at speed.
If anybody wonders my car is full weight with air conditioning.
For your car a 9' rear, relocation brakets, rod/rod adjustble lower control arms, Mad Man torque arm, If you dont want to spend the extra money for the mad man let me know I have an spohn with the relocation off the trans and a driveshaft loop I will sell it to you and i will get the mad man.
#25
well the cross bar welded under the car stays, the front links, and the front section up to the double adjustment points, from there back it morphs into a piece ending where like where the moser m9 tq arm or the midwest tq arm mounts
#26
the MT et streets are a bias ply tire running them with radial front tirese is squirley.
I did have a set years ago.
What I run now on the street are 315/35/17 MT ET street "RADIALS" Last month at DR42 on a tues TNT I cut a 1.44 60' The MT radials they are rock solid at speed I run over 20 PSI at the track and they HOOK.
I did have a set years ago.
What I run now on the street are 315/35/17 MT ET street "RADIALS" Last month at DR42 on a tues TNT I cut a 1.44 60' The MT radials they are rock solid at speed I run over 20 PSI at the track and they HOOK.
#27
Before, as in years ago I had MT ET streets, They are a bias ply DOT slick. They can be squirly when you mix them with a radial tire on the front.
Right know I run the MT ET street radials (drag radials) 315-35-17 as my everyday street tire. they are very stable and hook very well
Right know I run the MT ET street radials (drag radials) 315-35-17 as my everyday street tire. they are very stable and hook very well
#28
two questions
First, got pic?
second who did that for you? i want a high/low for my s60
#33
Before, as in years ago I had MT ET streets, They are a bias ply DOT slick. They can be squirly when you mix them with a radial tire on the front.
Right know I run the MT ET street radials (drag radials) 315-35-17 as my everyday street tire. they are very stable and hook very well
Right know I run the MT ET street radials (drag radials) 315-35-17 as my everyday street tire. they are very stable and hook very well
#34
well i am having one hell of a time trying to get ahold of these mt street radials. After talking to several places I finally asked a guy at summit and he said MT was closed down for inspections and they havent been able to make this tire for six months.
is there any alternative or is this the ticket? I will not be running these on the street if that is why i got the suggestions for them because I mentioned that it was a "street car". I have a set of 16" wheels to mount my slicks.
is there any alternative or is this the ticket? I will not be running these on the street if that is why i got the suggestions for them because I mentioned that it was a "street car". I have a set of 16" wheels to mount my slicks.
#36
well i am having one hell of a time trying to get ahold of these mt street radials. After talking to several places I finally asked a guy at summit and he said MT was closed down for inspections and they havent been able to make this tire for six months.
is there any alternative or is this the ticket? I will not be running these on the street if that is why i got the suggestions for them because I mentioned that it was a "street car". I have a set of 16" wheels to mount my slicks.
is there any alternative or is this the ticket? I will not be running these on the street if that is why i got the suggestions for them because I mentioned that it was a "street car". I have a set of 16" wheels to mount my slicks.
I would worry more about saving up for a rear before you put a tire on that is going to hook though. Like someone stated above, your 10 bolt isn't going to last long if you have a tire and suspension set up that will hook.
Madman makes a torque arm with two adjustments in the rear and numerous adjustments on the front height. You might want to talk to him and see what he can do for you also.
#38
[QUOTE=69vette;9615723]I would worry more about saving up for a rear before you put a tire on that is going to hook though. Like someone stated above, your 10 bolt isn't going to last long if you have a tire and suspension set up that will hook.
QUOTE]
the 9" and torque arm are on their way. Bought them through bob over at epp. He is a great guy to deal with!
Ill check with madman on the tires. Thanks
QUOTE]
the 9" and torque arm are on their way. Bought them through bob over at epp. He is a great guy to deal with!
Ill check with madman on the tires. Thanks
#39
What size mt street radial are you looking for? You may try talking with Brain (Madman) and see if he can get you the tires.
I would worry more about saving up for a rear before you put a tire on that is going to hook though. Like someone stated above, your 10 bolt isn't going to last long if you have a tire and suspension set up that will hook.
Madman makes a torque arm with two adjustments in the rear and numerous adjustments on the front height. You might want to talk to him and see what he can do for you also.
I would worry more about saving up for a rear before you put a tire on that is going to hook though. Like someone stated above, your 10 bolt isn't going to last long if you have a tire and suspension set up that will hook.
Madman makes a torque arm with two adjustments in the rear and numerous adjustments on the front height. You might want to talk to him and see what he can do for you also.
i did talk to madman. he said i would be replacing gears all the time with his arm. i don't want to do that
#40
Perhaps you should get a LPE two-step and then you can control the launch rpm and by doing that you can control the boost (amount of boost at that rpm) too.
For the track if you stay slick get some 28x16 slicks like an ET Drag if they make them. Run the rear shocks stiff since you are stick.
I've gone 1.35 on my 325 DR's but I'm auto. I left at 3600-3700 rpms with my 2 step and only say small boost off the line.
For the track if you stay slick get some 28x16 slicks like an ET Drag if they make them. Run the rear shocks stiff since you are stick.
I've gone 1.35 on my 325 DR's but I'm auto. I left at 3600-3700 rpms with my 2 step and only say small boost off the line.