What are high HP guys doing for traction?
06-25-2008, 09:51 PM
#41
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Perhaps you should get a LPE two-step and then you can control the launch rpm and by doing that you can control the boost (amount of boost at that rpm) too.
For the track if you stay slick get some 28x16 slicks like an ET Drag if they make them. Run the rear shocks stiff since you are stick.
I've gone 1.35 on my 325 DR's but I'm auto. I left at 3600-3700 rpms with my 2 step and only say small boost off the line.
For the track if you stay slick get some 28x16 slicks like an ET Drag if they make them. Run the rear shocks stiff since you are stick.
I've gone 1.35 on my 325 DR's but I'm auto. I left at 3600-3700 rpms with my 2 step and only say small boost off the line.
Actually I was looking at the LPE 2 step. I was hoping to get one that would work off the clutch though instead of haveing to play with a button. Anyway to do this with the LPE?
I see mostly 26x16. would something like that be alright?
Last edited by fletchls1; 06-25-2008 at 10:38 PM.
06-25-2008, 10:40 PM
#42
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i seen one person post about hoosier. whats up with that? check this out and let me know.....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
06-26-2008, 05:12 PM
#45
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yes but it is not a radial. I would be running my street tires on the front of the car when it does see the track. From what I have gathered this is what causes the swaying motion correct?
06-26-2008, 05:18 PM
#48
I have the LPE one step (its really a one step not a two) and it works great. They show you how to hook it up off of the clutch pedal so it only engages when the clutch is engaged. It requires the optional RPM module with the stick shift. The other thing is it allows you to keep the car floored when shifting the clutch engagement activates the one step and it keeps the car from over revving. Its really slick. I dont know if the instructions are online but you can come over and see mine unit and read my instructions.
06-26-2008, 07:58 PM
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ok, how bad would it be if i did just run a slick in the rear and not a radial? I think i am out of options for a 28" for a 16" wheel....without going to the m&h
06-27-2008, 09:02 AM
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I run them mismatched in the 160+ mph range. The car feels fine. It probably has more to do with running a wide front tire if you had them on there (I don't know what you ran/run). I know a few people that have tried to run wide street tires on 165ish mph cars and the car is a handful even with matched radial tires. With skinny tires on the front I have zero issues with running either rear tire.
06-27-2008, 02:13 PM
#58
Agreed
The Op has a street car and we are talking about full size 245-275 width front.
I Believe the issue is full sized radial fronts with Bias slicks in the back.
My strip only tires are hoosier drag radials 325/50/15 on the back with MT bias skinnies and I can adjust the stereo on the big end its so stable
The Op has a street car and we are talking about full size 245-275 width front.
I Believe the issue is full sized radial fronts with Bias slicks in the back.
My strip only tires are hoosier drag radials 325/50/15 on the back with MT bias skinnies and I can adjust the stereo on the big end its so stable
06-27-2008, 02:14 PM
#59
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well that makes it pretty clear.
only option here, know its not ideal but how bad will it be?
3.50 rear gear
26" tall tire
10" width
6 speed transmission
am i going to be out of 4th gear?
only option here, know its not ideal but how bad will it be?
3.50 rear gear
26" tall tire
10" width
6 speed transmission
am i going to be out of 4th gear?
06-27-2008, 10:48 PM
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My car should only be running mid-11's (not until I build another 9", haha). But I run a skinny front radial so I think that helps a bit. And only trapping in the upper 1-teens is probably a big part of it.