. 
Twin 76 build.
People sell stuff because people will buy it. I've never seen a 4L60/700R4 (same trans) last any length of time with more than 700 RWHP. Maybe Art Carr figured something out no one else has though. Over all I haven't seen many people succeed with this model of trans. Make a post about the trans in the transmission section and see if anyone else has experience with your transmission.
As for the turbos I'm guessing they are .96 a/r after looking at the pics of them and the box. You are going to have trouble spooling them with that size engine. A simple solution would be to only run one of them until you get the big cube engine done. Should be able to block off one of them. Just one of those turbos will get you over 750 RWHP. In order to use both those turbos in their current form on a 346 you would probably need a 8000+ rpm redline and a 5500 stall... or a whole lotta nitrous. Some 60-1's or GT35's would work nice on your setup though. A twin T76 setup is good for 1700 HP.
I think the combination of parts you have for your goals at this point are mismatched and will not be enjoyable to drive.
As for the turbos I'm guessing they are .96 a/r after looking at the pics of them and the box. You are going to have trouble spooling them with that size engine. A simple solution would be to only run one of them until you get the big cube engine done. Should be able to block off one of them. Just one of those turbos will get you over 750 RWHP. In order to use both those turbos in their current form on a 346 you would probably need a 8000+ rpm redline and a 5500 stall... or a whole lotta nitrous. Some 60-1's or GT35's would work nice on your setup though. A twin T76 setup is good for 1700 HP.
I think the combination of parts you have for your goals at this point are mismatched and will not be enjoyable to drive.
People sell stuff because people will buy it. I've never seen a 4L60/700R4 (same trans) last any length of time with more than 700 RWHP. Maybe Art Carr figured something out no one else has though. Over all I haven't seen many people succeed with this model of trans. Make a post about the trans in the transmission section and see if anyone else has experience with your transmission.
As for the turbos I'm guessing they are .96 a/r after looking at the pics of them and the box. You are going to have trouble spooling them with that size engine. A simple solution would be to only run one of them until you get the big cube engine done. Should be able to block off one of them. Just one of those turbos will get you over 750 RWHP. In order to use both those turbos in their current form on a 346 you would probably need a 8000+ rpm redline and a 5500 stall... or a whole lotta nitrous. Some 60-1's or GT35's would work nice on your setup though. A twin T76 setup is good for 1700 HP.
I think the combination of parts you have for your goals at this point are mismatched and will not be enjoyable to drive.
As for the turbos I'm guessing they are .96 a/r after looking at the pics of them and the box. You are going to have trouble spooling them with that size engine. A simple solution would be to only run one of them until you get the big cube engine done. Should be able to block off one of them. Just one of those turbos will get you over 750 RWHP. In order to use both those turbos in their current form on a 346 you would probably need a 8000+ rpm redline and a 5500 stall... or a whole lotta nitrous. Some 60-1's or GT35's would work nice on your setup though. A twin T76 setup is good for 1700 HP.
I think the combination of parts you have for your goals at this point are mismatched and will not be enjoyable to drive.
Thanks for the info... I may have to try that if it does not work out for me. However I think I am going to atleast try. As stated above and this has been talked about before the mustang guys are doing this with smaller motors.... Why can't we?
8k+ rpm redlines......huge stalls, 2 steps, nitorus, extra injectors to load fuel to help spool. Lots of cheats but none of them good for anything but the 1320.
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Did not get a lot done yesterday but did get a little done. I spent more time trying to locate things then anything. I got the intake piping from TB to intercooler routed now just needs to be welded!
Things purchased Yesterday.
2 4an feed kits
2 10an drain kits
drilled and tapped oil block thingy for the feed lines
drilled and welded bungs on front cover
I welded the bungs on the front cover at kind of an angle cause it is just really close to the crank pulley.
Things purchased Yesterday.
2 4an feed kits
2 10an drain kits
drilled and tapped oil block thingy for the feed lines
drilled and welded bungs on front cover
I welded the bungs on the front cover at kind of an angle cause it is just really close to the crank pulley.
I bought a Incon Twin Turbo kit a year ago and it was in it. I am not sure where it is from. I got the kit from onfire. I will see if he knows where it came from. I don't think that it was a incon but I could be wrong.
Also It originally only had one hole for a feed,I drilled and tapped a second one. There is room to do 2 on top, or like I did.
Also It originally only had one hole for a feed,I drilled and tapped a second one. There is room to do 2 on top, or like I did.
Update:
Yesterday was very productive. I assembled the whole bottom end of the motor. I had a couple problems with the damn double roller timing chain not fitting but after a lot of grinding and massaging, I finally got it to fit. I am waiting on my head studs to get here otherwise the motor would have been done.
Installed the abs brake delete kit. By the way that kit is Awesome. THanks SJM. Very easy, simple install, and it looks great. It really frees up a lot of room in the engine bay.
I got the fuse boxs mounted, where I believe they will fit behind the bumper alright. I am not sure as I have not test fit the bumper yet. But I do not see it being a problem. I also cleaned up all the cuts on the frame the best I could. I need to primer and paint the bay now.
Radiator overflow is mounted. If someone can please let me know if there needs to be a vent on the overflow tank. I was looking at the stock one and under the cap it looks like it does vent. Any info would be greatly appreciated here.
Got the AMW catch can installed. All turbo hotpipes, and cold side has been completed. The Hotpipes need to go to a coater, but I am running out of money so I am thinking about doing this over the winter.
Things left to do:
Have to figure out how to route the radiator hoses. They are really close the the down pipes.
Need to wire gauges.
Need to install shifter.
I do not have pics as I can not find my sd card. As soon as I find it I will get some pics and post them.
Yesterday was very productive. I assembled the whole bottom end of the motor. I had a couple problems with the damn double roller timing chain not fitting but after a lot of grinding and massaging, I finally got it to fit. I am waiting on my head studs to get here otherwise the motor would have been done.
Installed the abs brake delete kit. By the way that kit is Awesome. THanks SJM. Very easy, simple install, and it looks great. It really frees up a lot of room in the engine bay.
I got the fuse boxs mounted, where I believe they will fit behind the bumper alright. I am not sure as I have not test fit the bumper yet. But I do not see it being a problem. I also cleaned up all the cuts on the frame the best I could. I need to primer and paint the bay now.
Radiator overflow is mounted. If someone can please let me know if there needs to be a vent on the overflow tank. I was looking at the stock one and under the cap it looks like it does vent. Any info would be greatly appreciated here.
Got the AMW catch can installed. All turbo hotpipes, and cold side has been completed. The Hotpipes need to go to a coater, but I am running out of money so I am thinking about doing this over the winter.
Things left to do:
Have to figure out how to route the radiator hoses. They are really close the the down pipes.
Need to wire gauges.
Need to install shifter.
I do not have pics as I can not find my sd card. As soon as I find it I will get some pics and post them.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 361
Likes: 1
From: australia
As for the turbos I'm guessing they are .96 a/r after looking at the pics of them and the box. You are going to have trouble spooling them with that size engine. A simple solution would be to only run one of them until you get the big cube engine done. Should be able to block off one of them. Just one of those turbos will get you over 750 RWHP. In order to use both those turbos in their current form on a 346 you would probably need a 8000+ rpm redline and a 5500 stall... or a whole lotta nitrous. Some 60-1's or GT35's would work nice on your setup though. A twin T76 setup is good for 1700 HP.
I think the combination of parts you have for your goals at this point are mismatched and will not be enjoyable to drive.[/QUOTE]
--------------------------------------------------------
i sort of tend to agree here....
we tried a set of gtk 1000 / 850 's ( 76mm , surge slotted front cover, and .81 a/r turbine housings , with a S trim wheel.)
on my 358 sbc cube drag engine...
the engine would not pull up on the converter past 3800- 3900 rpm , it still made 11 psi @ 3800 rpm
removed them and put the hp 66's back on , no worries, pulls the convert up to 6035 rpm flat stall on trans break.
removed them and put the old gtk 550's ( 61mm ) ,and they pulled the same convertter to 5700 rpm
all turbos where turbonetics , ball bearings...
twin 61mm turbos took drag car to 7.2 @ 191 ( 156 mph 1/8 mile)....
Maybe my converter was too tight, BUT as anyone that has played with converters and turbos, .... one setting is too tight, and the next setting is way , way loose and the stall rpm goes sky ward....
good luck in your project, hoope it all works
cheers
ash
I think the combination of parts you have for your goals at this point are mismatched and will not be enjoyable to drive.[/QUOTE]
--------------------------------------------------------
i sort of tend to agree here....
we tried a set of gtk 1000 / 850 's ( 76mm , surge slotted front cover, and .81 a/r turbine housings , with a S trim wheel.)
on my 358 sbc cube drag engine...
the engine would not pull up on the converter past 3800- 3900 rpm , it still made 11 psi @ 3800 rpm
removed them and put the hp 66's back on , no worries, pulls the convert up to 6035 rpm flat stall on trans break.
removed them and put the old gtk 550's ( 61mm ) ,and they pulled the same convertter to 5700 rpm
all turbos where turbonetics , ball bearings...
twin 61mm turbos took drag car to 7.2 @ 191 ( 156 mph 1/8 mile)....
Maybe my converter was too tight, BUT as anyone that has played with converters and turbos, .... one setting is too tight, and the next setting is way , way loose and the stall rpm goes sky ward....
good luck in your project, hoope it all works
cheers
ash
build update I have not been able to work on the car much so I took all day yesterday and got almost everything done. All of the coldside, hotside, wiring harness, alternator relocation, battery relocation, fuel system is done.
I had a hell of a time getting the radiator stuff to fit and route properly, so I Finally gave in and let someone weld bungs in and I am just going to run SS braided lines for the coolant lines.
I also have some questions about my alternator relocation. There is a pulley where the alternator was. Does that need to stay installed or stay removed. And what size belt do I need. I am running the alternator relocation kit from SmokinHawk.
Things that still need to be completed are:
PCV system
Vacume lines
Wire the fans
wire gauges
Get a belt
and start the car.
I am hoping that Sunday I can finish everything and will post a video!
I had a hell of a time getting the radiator stuff to fit and route properly, so I Finally gave in and let someone weld bungs in and I am just going to run SS braided lines for the coolant lines.
I also have some questions about my alternator relocation. There is a pulley where the alternator was. Does that need to stay installed or stay removed. And what size belt do I need. I am running the alternator relocation kit from SmokinHawk.
Things that still need to be completed are:
PCV system
Vacume lines
Wire the fans
wire gauges
Get a belt
and start the car.
I am hoping that Sunday I can finish everything and will post a video!
Last edited by sevanseriesta; Sep 18, 2008 at 11:10 AM.
Here are some pics, I have included what the engine bay looked like before and after to give you an idea of the difference just a little spray can do. I just wanted to clean it up a little and it came out way better then expected.
This morning before I came into work I tried to put the Water pump and the radiator back in and attach the new steel braided lines. I got the pump and radiator in but did not get a chance to do the lines yet.
Enjoy
Engine bay before
Engine bay after
Comparison
Front shot of intercooler with bumper on (ignore the tape stuck on there) I have to get some adhesive remover
Here is the cold side pipeing
Relocated the fuse boxes
Water pump after welded
Radiator. I had the fitting welded a little lower cause it was interfering with my oil drain line it is perfect now.
This morning before I came into work I tried to put the Water pump and the radiator back in and attach the new steel braided lines. I got the pump and radiator in but did not get a chance to do the lines yet.
Enjoy
Engine bay before
Engine bay after
Comparison
Front shot of intercooler with bumper on (ignore the tape stuck on there) I have to get some adhesive remover
Here is the cold side pipeing
Relocated the fuse boxes
Water pump after welded
Radiator. I had the fitting welded a little lower cause it was interfering with my oil drain line it is perfect now.
Another Update... Have Problems need some Help Hey guys I worked on the car last night and got everything finished. But I have a problem. This is an electrical problem that I have never seen before.
I relocated my battery to the back of the car (had no Option), I hooked all of the cables up and everything was good. I had power to everything gauges, dome light, door chimes everything. Then I went to turn On the headlights and everything went off. Like it flipped a breaker to the entire car. No lights, turn the ignition over nothing. Now here is the really weird part. No fuses blown, not a one. I checked to see if the fuse box was even still getting power and it is. I checked the wires and everything looks good. I installed the battery in a different car and it works perfectly.
So my question is What would cause the fuse box to still get power but nothing turns on.
Other then that everything is installed. It is ready for startup. If I can get power.
And for those that want to know how I have the battery hooked up it is like this.
2 gauge wire from battery to starter, 8 gauge wire from starter to Fuse box, 2 gauge wire from battery to alternator. 2 gauge ground from battery to seat belt bolt.
Need some help guys let me know!
I relocated my battery to the back of the car (had no Option), I hooked all of the cables up and everything was good. I had power to everything gauges, dome light, door chimes everything. Then I went to turn On the headlights and everything went off. Like it flipped a breaker to the entire car. No lights, turn the ignition over nothing. Now here is the really weird part. No fuses blown, not a one. I checked to see if the fuse box was even still getting power and it is. I checked the wires and everything looks good. I installed the battery in a different car and it works perfectly.
So my question is What would cause the fuse box to still get power but nothing turns on.
Other then that everything is installed. It is ready for startup. If I can get power.
And for those that want to know how I have the battery hooked up it is like this.
2 gauge wire from battery to starter, 8 gauge wire from starter to Fuse box, 2 gauge wire from battery to alternator. 2 gauge ground from battery to seat belt bolt.
Need some help guys let me know!
