Best Fluids for Forced Induction
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From: Louisville, Ky
Best Fluids for Forced Induction I see alot of people run Rotella but the weights of the oil vary. Should I use 0w40, 20w50, etc. Any reason you can see not to run Rotella? Supposedly, it has better detergents in it for turbo motors?
I've seen guys with high hp set-ups say they run grocery store brand automatic transmission fluid in their T-56's. $40 is a drop in the bucket compared to the $3000 I have tied up in my stupid T-56. Is it worth it to go to the Mobil 1 tranny fluid- or better yet, Royal Purple? And I think it is synthetic. Is it okay if it is? I just don't want to run something I shouldn't and then find out I spend money and did damage. I could spend $10 on the cheap stuff and it perform better for all I know.
Alot of the guys in 90* weather are claiming issues with keeping their temps down at idle or even when cruising on the highway when the A/C is on. I upgraded to an LT1 radiator as a small precaution but I was also thinking about running some of that $50 Evans coolant. Again, the money is nothing if it means longevity and no headaches. It is suppossed to keep the engine quite a bit cooler and protect you from hyrdolocking if you blow a head hasket. Question is, is it safe to run through the turbo's? I don't see why not, but the turbos say 'water-cooled', not Evans coolant cooled. What do you guys think? I don't neccessarily think I want to be the guinea pig on this one, LOL.
I've seen guys with high hp set-ups say they run grocery store brand automatic transmission fluid in their T-56's. $40 is a drop in the bucket compared to the $3000 I have tied up in my stupid T-56. Is it worth it to go to the Mobil 1 tranny fluid- or better yet, Royal Purple? And I think it is synthetic. Is it okay if it is? I just don't want to run something I shouldn't and then find out I spend money and did damage. I could spend $10 on the cheap stuff and it perform better for all I know.
Alot of the guys in 90* weather are claiming issues with keeping their temps down at idle or even when cruising on the highway when the A/C is on. I upgraded to an LT1 radiator as a small precaution but I was also thinking about running some of that $50 Evans coolant. Again, the money is nothing if it means longevity and no headaches. It is suppossed to keep the engine quite a bit cooler and protect you from hyrdolocking if you blow a head hasket. Question is, is it safe to run through the turbo's? I don't see why not, but the turbos say 'water-cooled', not Evans coolant cooled. What do you guys think? I don't neccessarily think I want to be the guinea pig on this one, LOL.
My deciding factor was dependability.
With an oil cooler, I could beat my car to where I'd get way below 40 psi at idle with many oils... Not happy 'bout that.
Then I tried Mobil 1 15w-50, and when the oil is fully warmed up, it's right at 40 psi all the time.
With an oil cooler, I could beat my car to where I'd get way below 40 psi at idle with many oils... Not happy 'bout that.
Then I tried Mobil 1 15w-50, and when the oil is fully warmed up, it's right at 40 psi all the time.
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
What pump are you using?
With a turbo LS1 and a stock style oil pump, I would run mobil 1, 15-50 or a similar synthetic in 20-50. Amsoil is my choice.
If you have a dry sump, then you can run lighter weight oils.
Glenn
If you have a dry sump, then you can run lighter weight oils.
Glenn
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From: Louisville, Ky
My engine builder also recommended 20-50 but I could have sworn I remember reading that LS1 motors really don't need oils that thick for whatever reason. I know its great to have that weight when you're beating on it and the oil thins out but what kind of wear and tear are you causing when doing cold starts with the oil not being able to coat everything as quickly? My car sits for days and days sometimes.
Anyone on the tranny fluid and Evans Coolant?
Anyone on the tranny fluid and Evans Coolant?
My engine builder also recommended 20-50 but I could have sworn I remember reading that LS1 motors really don't need oils that thick for whatever reason. I know its great to have that weight when you're beating on it and the oil thins out but what kind of wear and tear are you causing when doing cold starts with the oil not being able to coat everything as quickly? My car sits for days and days sometimes.
Anyone on the tranny fluid and Evans Coolant?
Anyone on the tranny fluid and Evans Coolant?
I remember running 10W-30 and doing three dig runs back to back against a Fox Body Mustang one night... Car started running funny and I looked at my oil pressure gauge... **** looked like it was almost zero... Panicked, pulled over, and let the car cool for a while...
I decided that night to run an oil cooler and thicker oil.
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From: Norn Iron
Motul 300V 5/40
No idea on temperatures, no idea of oil pressure ( factory gauge has no numbers )
Ive also never had any oil related problems, and done standing mile's etc....back to back passes several times. Well...as much as the coolant will allow lol.
Standard GM pump ( which appeared ported when I got it ). I might have shimmed it ever so slightly, but oil pressure is just the same with this engine, as the last standard GM pump.
No idea on temperatures, no idea of oil pressure ( factory gauge has no numbers )
Ive also never had any oil related problems, and done standing mile's etc....back to back passes several times. Well...as much as the coolant will allow lol.
Standard GM pump ( which appeared ported when I got it ). I might have shimmed it ever so slightly, but oil pressure is just the same with this engine, as the last standard GM pump.
I like the Q 10w 40 and the 4x4 type to. I also have a upgrade oil pump with the bigger bypass spring. Im on 0w 40 mobil 1 now that seems to hold up better on a hot turbo psi is always between 45-60 Idle and 60-80 when I get on it. But the higher psi just means it takes more pressure to run oil in the motor. I stay away from royal purple just a little thin when warm for my taste.
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I run Mobil 1 0W40 and it's excellent. It may be harder on the catalytic converters, but worth it in my opinion and I have good pressure all the time. Autozone always has it on sale-- 5qt and a Mobil 1 filter for $29.99. I buy 5 offers at a time-- enough for 4 oil changes and I'm good for a year.
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From: sneaking in your back door as you leave!/cartersville ga
rotella or valvoline vr1 racing here. plus i add a half a bottle of GM EOS. think zinc. its like a pillow for all your parts in your engine
I run Mobil 1 0W40 and it's excellent. It may be harder on the catalytic converters, but worth it in my opinion and I have good pressure all the time. Autozone always has it on sale-- 5qt and a Mobil 1 filter for $29.99. I buy 5 offers at a time-- enough for 4 oil changes and I'm good for a year.
adavance auto
I would run mobil 1 5W30 and change the oil prob every 1-1500 miles and add a 1/2 to a qt when needed/
For the trans..... Nothing but tractor fluid...............
Oh yeah.... Walmart is where i buy my oil... $21.96 for 5 qts......
For the trans..... Nothing but tractor fluid...............
Oh yeah.... Walmart is where i buy my oil... $21.96 for 5 qts......
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From: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60? I was just going over what kind of oil to use in my turbo car (although it's an LTX.
My motor combo is a fully forged LT4 with AFR 195cc heads, 9:1 CR and 15lbs of boost.
Once I'm done using the dino oil to break in the motor, I'm trying to decide what route to go permanently. This is the oil specified for our BMW M series cars. I put together a pricey motor and am willing to spend a little more on the oil (This stuff is just over $9/qt my cost through my parts department) if it means more protection for the engine.
Would the 60 weight be too much? Anyone know anything else about this oil? It is German-manufactured Castrol.
Not trying to hijack. Maybe this could be helpful as well to the OP.
My motor combo is a fully forged LT4 with AFR 195cc heads, 9:1 CR and 15lbs of boost.
Once I'm done using the dino oil to break in the motor, I'm trying to decide what route to go permanently. This is the oil specified for our BMW M series cars. I put together a pricey motor and am willing to spend a little more on the oil (This stuff is just over $9/qt my cost through my parts department) if it means more protection for the engine.
Would the 60 weight be too much? Anyone know anything else about this oil? It is German-manufactured Castrol.
Not trying to hijack. Maybe this could be helpful as well to the OP.