Under piston cooling.
08-05-2008, 07:23 AM
#1
Under piston cooling. is anyone ruinning under piston cooling?? i hear it can make a BIG diffferance when you are running FI. dept. threshold gose up and it can help reduce scuffing of the borse to.
downsides are less oil getting to the bearings.......
F1 engines supposidly run 10 per cyclinder!!
i also hear the LS9 will have them as standard....
anyone got any coments???
Cheers
Chris.
downsides are less oil getting to the bearings.......
F1 engines supposidly run 10 per cyclinder!!
i also hear the LS9 will have them as standard....
anyone got any coments???
Cheers
Chris.
08-05-2008, 08:43 AM
#2
8 Second Club
iTrader: (40)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Raleigh,North Carolina
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The factory Mopar dumdumdumdum engine uses them , so so does the Ecotech Turbo 4 banger. A lot of the inline 4 bullet bike engines use them (high rpm durability). They are a good thing, if I could have easily adapted a standard LQ9 block to use them, I would have included them. My next build might incorporate piston oil squirters.
08-05-2008, 03:57 PM
#5
IMO, unless you are road racing or exclusively drag racing, they fall into the 'nice to have' category as opposed to the 'must have' category. Realistically, what's the amount of time you will really spend in boost on a street car, 5-10%? Even that's probably high, considering how fast you would be going in any of these cars after like 15 seconds in boost.
And I do believe you need to take the extra oil volume needed to run squirter into account when you spec/set up your oil pump and system.
On SBC motors, I have seen pictures of modified mains, with a small hole drilled and a brass squirter tip pressed in so there is a stream of oil the piston passes through on its way up and down. They used a hi vol/hi pressure pump in that setup.
Don't know how you would do it in a LSx motor.
Jim
And I do believe you need to take the extra oil volume needed to run squirter into account when you spec/set up your oil pump and system.
On SBC motors, I have seen pictures of modified mains, with a small hole drilled and a brass squirter tip pressed in so there is a stream of oil the piston passes through on its way up and down. They used a hi vol/hi pressure pump in that setup.
Don't know how you would do it in a LSx motor.
Jim
08-05-2008, 04:33 PM
#6
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Clayton, North Carolina
Posts: 3,898
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Attached is a picture of a 6.0 I just built for boosted street use, I used the LS9 type nozzle. The newer 6.0 and 6.2 can be machined for the stock oilers to be added, but the nozzle is still hard to come by.
On my 352ci boosted engine I had Oliver rods with lube tubes putting oil into the wrist pin under pressure with the normal hole drilled on top to put oil onto the back of the dome.
Kurt
On my 352ci boosted engine I had Oliver rods with lube tubes putting oil into the wrist pin under pressure with the normal hole drilled on top to put oil onto the back of the dome.
Kurt
08-05-2008, 04:44 PM
#7
Trending Topics
08-06-2008, 02:24 AM
#9
Attached is a picture of a 6.0 I just built for boosted street use, I used the LS9 type nozzle. The newer 6.0 and 6.2 can be machined for the stock oilers to be added, but the nozzle is still hard to come by.
On my 352ci boosted engine I had Oliver rods with lube tubes putting oil into the wrist pin under pressure with the normal hole drilled on top to put oil onto the back of the dome.
Kurt
On my 352ci boosted engine I had Oliver rods with lube tubes putting oil into the wrist pin under pressure with the normal hole drilled on top to put oil onto the back of the dome.
Kurt
i also hear you can machine a hole in the cylinder wall as a cheap way of doing things. as long as it points at the exhaust side of the piston you are fine.
Cheers
Chris.
08-06-2008, 11:26 AM
#10
Attached is a picture of a 6.0 I just built for boosted street use, I used the LS9 type nozzle. The newer 6.0 and 6.2 can be machined for the stock oilers to be added, but the nozzle is still hard to come by.
On my 352ci boosted engine I had Oliver rods with lube tubes putting oil into the wrist pin under pressure with the normal hole drilled on top to put oil onto the back of the dome.
Kurt
On my 352ci boosted engine I had Oliver rods with lube tubes putting oil into the wrist pin under pressure with the normal hole drilled on top to put oil onto the back of the dome.
Kurt
08-06-2008, 12:25 PM
#11
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Clayton, North Carolina
Posts: 3,898
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
The 6.0 aluminum block can be machined for this if its a newer casting. You can see the difference in the cam tunnel of the newer blocks. I think the LSX could take the oilers if you wanted them, but I never checked it myself. Someday I hope to get a bad block I can cut up!!
Kurt
Kurt
08-07-2008, 10:08 AM
#12
Attached is a picture of a 6.0 I just built for boosted street use, I used the LS9 type nozzle. The newer 6.0 and 6.2 can be machined for the stock oilers to be added, but the nozzle is still hard to come by.
On my 352ci boosted engine I had Oliver rods with lube tubes putting oil into the wrist pin under pressure with the normal hole drilled on top to put oil onto the back of the dome.
Kurt
On my 352ci boosted engine I had Oliver rods with lube tubes putting oil into the wrist pin under pressure with the normal hole drilled on top to put oil onto the back of the dome.
Kurt
The part# for the oiler is 12601222, so if anyone wants to experiment with a
junk block you can order one from GM.
This sounds like a good idea for road race cars that are under power for long
periods of time!
08-07-2008, 09:45 PM
#14
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Clayton, North Carolina
Posts: 3,898
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Should be kinda handy on trucks that pull trailers also. Mine will start to ping going into Kentucky on I75 when its climbing that grade at 2-3 psi for 30 seconds. It will also be good on high output drag cars to keep the pistons in one piece!!
Kurt
Kurt
08-09-2008, 05:48 PM
#19
TECH Apprentice
when you get your block prepped... put a drilling into the top of the main tunnel.then tap it , and fit a screw in restricter. we do this on ski boat race engines ( sit at 7500 full load for 40- 45 minutes..)
each piston will get a jet of oil under the pin area.
change your oil pump to a gerota style to add extra oil.
this is for sbc style engines ( 15 / 18 deg heads )
cheers
ash
each piston will get a jet of oil under the pin area.
change your oil pump to a gerota style to add extra oil.
this is for sbc style engines ( 15 / 18 deg heads )
cheers
ash
02-23-2009, 03:00 PM
#20
I know this thread is kinda old, just thought that I'd add for the sake of reference.
I was looking into these for my LS7 and was told by katech that they will not work on the LS7 block because of the location of the oil galleys. I ended up using oliver rods with lube tubes, as I plan on running a bit of crankcase vacuum in a road race engine.
I was looking into these for my LS7 and was told by katech that they will not work on the LS7 block because of the location of the oil galleys. I ended up using oliver rods with lube tubes, as I plan on running a bit of crankcase vacuum in a road race engine.