APS TT Tubing Problems
um no. read my other posts. and i said the sway bar thing is a simple mistake. it sucks but thats a fitment issue and fitment on ANYTHING sold by anyone should be checked again and again. the intake tubes are not a fitment problem, its a quality problem brought on by not testing the product they sold. just imo. i am building my own single turbo kit. so i guess its not really my problem at all
did Peter post additional pictures somewhere as mentioned above or a schematic for the spacer? would like to get these made/purchased this week for my weekend project list! if someone here already has done it could u post pics and also where u got the endlinks and what to ask for. thx.
wouldn't that space it out better?
I hear what your saying and understand what you mean about the tubes, kinda of a noticeable thing to miss but fortunately not overly expensive to fix. I was contemplating doing the same or having a shop build me a 1 off kit but if these are the only issues with the APS kit it might be easier to just go with the kit. Plus, although im not bad a bad welder im not sure if I should even try building my own kit when I have little experience building a turbo kit. What are your goals for the single kit your making?
Haha I hear you on the power! Im not sure if and when I start my build if I want to go simple and just run a forged 346 and potentially the aps twin kit or a d1sc and aim for 600 or so rwhp or if I want to push the limits and do say a 402 LS2 stroker or an iron 408 and either of the FI kits listed above. What are you going to be using for a clutch? Textralia, Spec, Mcleod, or other? Nice to see someone taking advantage of the higher octane E-85 as a 10:1 comp 408 pushing an 88mm turbo should make for some crazy power, maybe even more than your shooting for. Looks like you have the setup too to handle the power (rear, suspension, fuel, etc.) Def post up a thread with your build and if you can try to take pics of the building of your turbo kit as id like to see if it is something I could handle.
1000 whp just cause im a dumb ***. probably run around at 750 whp and rarely turn it up all the way. 408 iron block with a gt 47-88, 10-1 compression and e 85. six spd. waiting on the machine shop right now. but im gonna start on the kit soon with a mock up motor. doing a truck mani deal, with an ofi radiator. intercooler, fuel, 12 bolt, suspension all in. machine guy is good but busy so waiting on him a bit.
From the picture, it's just a piece of 1/2" (13 mm) flat stock with 2 holes in it. Just goto home depot, lowes, etc. Buy a $5 piece of flat steel (either 1/2" if they have it, or 1/4" and double it). Take it home, take off your sway bar, line up the holes on the swaybar to the steel stock, drill, cut, and your done.
The same thing happened when I installed my 12-bolt, the rear sway hit the 12-bolt cover. All it required was a spacer like described above and longer endlinks (I got the next size longer than stock, Energy Suspension, from autozone). I didn't call Strange Engineering because my rear sway was hitting their axle. I just took 1 hour to fix it, and moved on with my life.
I think APS is doing a good job and supplying us with a good setup. On top of it, the install manual is great. A lot of companies (not just car stuff) send you a box of parts with incomplete "install instructions" that aren't even written in correct English. APS gave us 185 steps to build a turbo car, but it doesn't install itself. Just apply some due care.
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PETER: If you see this, maybe add an 8th step to the end of the install manual along the same idea of step #5. Something like, "Verify adequate clearance of anything affected by suspension travel. . . . "
The same thing happened when I installed my 12-bolt, the rear sway hit the 12-bolt cover. All it required was a spacer like described above and longer endlinks (I got the next size longer than stock, Energy Suspension, from autozone). I didn't call Strange Engineering because my rear sway was hitting their axle. I just took 1 hour to fix it, and moved on with my life.
I think APS is doing a good job and supplying us with a good setup. On top of it, the install manual is great. A lot of companies (not just car stuff) send you a box of parts with incomplete "install instructions" that aren't even written in correct English. APS gave us 185 steps to build a turbo car, but it doesn't install itself. Just apply some due care.
**********
PETER: If you see this, maybe add an 8th step to the end of the install manual along the same idea of step #5. Something like, "Verify adequate clearance of anything affected by suspension travel. . . . "
From the picture, it's just a piece of 1/2" (13 mm) flat stock with 2 holes in it. Just goto home depot, lowes, etc. Buy a $5 piece of flat steel (either 1/2" if they have it, or 1/4" and double it). Take it home, take off your sway bar, line up the holes on the swaybar to the steel stock, drill, cut, and your done.
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Verdad Gallardo ram twin disk, suppose to take 1100 ft lbs. it worked great with the old d1 set up
Peter also mentioned modifying the end links. A drawing would help with the center of where the holes need to be. I am thinking the swaybar mount is made out of thin metal, so it will be distorted when you remove it, so it will not be that easy to mark the center of where you need to drill.
Spacers: Right, the mount will distort, but the car-side will not. You could take a measurement of the hole-to-hole distance of where the bolts go into the car.
I'll probably space the mounts 1/2", mount the sway bar, then position it as if the endlinks were chopped 1/2". Check clearance and go from there. I won't be to that stage of install for about 1 week (car's currently on jackstands, I'm about to start installing the IC and intake plumbing)
Good luck, I can post up my results once I'm off the jackstands
this is the problem with aftermarket ****... not to bash APS as they do make quality kits and prob are the best kits out there but no aftermarket part manufacturer takes into acount the compatability of other parts. at least it should be mentioned that certain kits or parts being advertised will not work with other parts. like in this case for example it should be mentioned that the kit is specifically designed around the factory sway bar and that an aftermarket unit may not be compatable. that way at least the company can save their *** when people have problems with interference. sorry to highjack this thread just puttin in my .02 about this.. good luck
My car is stock height, stock sway bar, stock end-links and stock bushings and has this issue.
I had already put some spacers in the sway bar brackets and it is still happening.
Who has bought shorter end-links? Where did you get them? How much did they cost? Please give me as many details as you can like company, length, part #'s
Thanks,
Fil131
I had already put some spacers in the sway bar brackets and it is still happening.
Who has bought shorter end-links? Where did you get them? How much did they cost? Please give me as many details as you can like company, length, part #'s
Thanks,
Fil131
Try this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...nging-fix.html ...although, it seems her pictures are no longer showing
I think I'd rather just buy short-end links, I wanted to get polly bushings anyway so I can just buy the short end-links with the polly bushings right away...
Anyone who knows a good place to get them, or at least what length I should get?
Thanks guys.
Anyone who knows a good place to get them, or at least what length I should get?
Thanks guys.
