How to convert to a Return style fuel system (with pics)
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From: Alexandria La.
How to convert to a Return style fuel system (with pics) Been wanting to go to a return style fuel system and want to make sure I'm doing this right. Did some searching and found a litle info on this but no pics so I decided to post some and get some feed back from some of those of you that have already done this.
This info & pics are for 99-02 PLASTIC tank F-bodies.
First heres the tank, I have circled the line that I suspect will be the line to use.
Here's where you will actually connect a new return line down here, do it this way if you want to retain the evap system.
This is the part I'm unsure of, what part # for the fitting to connect a -6 line to this GM quick disconnect?
&
What type & size of plug do you need to plug the "T" block on the stock feed line?
Here's a pic of the regulator that you MUST remove, its already been removed in this pic.
Another pic of the regulator removed, I guess the black housing can stay on, didnt see a way to remove it.
Hope these pics are helpful to some in the future, please correct me if I'm wrong and I will edit my post. May not be a bad idea to do a sticky on this. I looked but didnt find too much info on this (sorry if I overlooked anything)
This info & pics are for 99-02 PLASTIC tank F-bodies.
First heres the tank, I have circled the line that I suspect will be the line to use.
Here's where you will actually connect a new return line down here, do it this way if you want to retain the evap system.
This is the part I'm unsure of, what part # for the fitting to connect a -6 line to this GM quick disconnect?
&
What type & size of plug do you need to plug the "T" block on the stock feed line?
Here's a pic of the regulator that you MUST remove, its already been removed in this pic.
Another pic of the regulator removed, I guess the black housing can stay on, didnt see a way to remove it.
Hope these pics are helpful to some in the future, please correct me if I'm wrong and I will edit my post. May not be a bad idea to do a sticky on this. I looked but didnt find too much info on this (sorry if I overlooked anything)
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (19)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,542
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From: Alexandria La.
Might take a jog through a couple of these threads:
How I personally used the EVAP line:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...-question.html
Plug size:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...size-plug.html
And the original thread I've used (a lot of this should be thrown in a sticky):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...-write-up.html
How I personally used the EVAP line:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...-question.html
Plug size:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...size-plug.html
And the original thread I've used (a lot of this should be thrown in a sticky):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...-write-up.html
And here's some part numbers for stuff I used to plumb my FAST fuel rails (this is only a list if you aren't running a return system from the rails - if you are, you'll need some more stuff that is specific to doing that):
The following is the exact list of parts I used on my car to hook up my FAST fuel rails when I was still using the regulator in the tank. The part numbers are from Summit Racing, so if you get them from somewhere else, you'll have to do some cross-referencing.
Fuel Rail Fittings – Using 3/8” Factory Hard Line for Feed
1 x AEI-15118 – Aeromotive AN Quick Connect Adapter Fitting
4 x AEI-15607 – Aeromotive -8 O-Ring Boss to -8 AN Adapter
1 x AEI-15618 – Aeromotive -8 O-Ring Boss Slim Line Plug
3 x AT809108ERL – Earl’s -8 AN 90* Swivel Hose End (Black)
1 x AT804608ERL – Earl’s -8 AN 45* Swivel Hose End (Black)
1 x 406008ERL – Earl’s -8 AN Stainless Braided Hose (6 ft)
Where everything goes in order from the factory hard line:
Aeromotive AN Quick Connect (AEI-15118) attaches to hard line. Screw one -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter (AEI-15607) into the female threaded end of the quick connect fitting. The female threaded end of the quick connect fitting (AEI-15118) accepts the O-Ring Boss side of the adapter (AEI-15607), leaving the male -8 AN (37* flare) end facing up as installed in the car. Screw the Earl’s 45* swivel hose end (AT804608ERL) into the quick connect assembly. Run the proper length of hose from the 45* hose end into a 90* hose end (AT809108ERL). This will run to the inlet of the fuel rails. Screw one -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter (AEI-15607) into each end of the driver’s side fuel rails to adapt the rails to -8 AN male ends – again, the O-Ring Boss side of the adapter goes into the female threads of the rails. Screw the 90* hose end into the front (or rear if that’s where you want the inlet) of the driver’s side rail. At the opposite end of the rail, make a cross-over line using two 90* hose ends (AT809108ERL) and the proper length of hose. The passenger side fuel rail gets the last -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter in the end that the cross-over is on and the other end of the fuel rail gets the -8 ORB slim line plug. The fuel will dead end at this point allowing the pressure to build as it did from the factory.
Keep in mind that I used some fairly expensive line and hose ends - if you don't want black ends, you can see what other finishes are out there as long as the sizes match the list I gave above. I think there are ones in a nickel finish and the standard blue/red ends.
I've had the best luck with Earl's hose ends and lines, but they are more expensive than some of the other stuff out there (Summit has their own brand, but I'm not sure who makes it for them before they throw their name on it). Russel also makes adapters that plug into the factory quick connect hard line and converts it to an AN fitting, but the Aeromotive quick connects are much nicer, albeit more expensive.
The following is the exact list of parts I used on my car to hook up my FAST fuel rails when I was still using the regulator in the tank. The part numbers are from Summit Racing, so if you get them from somewhere else, you'll have to do some cross-referencing.
Fuel Rail Fittings – Using 3/8” Factory Hard Line for Feed
1 x AEI-15118 – Aeromotive AN Quick Connect Adapter Fitting
4 x AEI-15607 – Aeromotive -8 O-Ring Boss to -8 AN Adapter
1 x AEI-15618 – Aeromotive -8 O-Ring Boss Slim Line Plug
3 x AT809108ERL – Earl’s -8 AN 90* Swivel Hose End (Black)
1 x AT804608ERL – Earl’s -8 AN 45* Swivel Hose End (Black)
1 x 406008ERL – Earl’s -8 AN Stainless Braided Hose (6 ft)
Where everything goes in order from the factory hard line:
Aeromotive AN Quick Connect (AEI-15118) attaches to hard line. Screw one -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter (AEI-15607) into the female threaded end of the quick connect fitting. The female threaded end of the quick connect fitting (AEI-15118) accepts the O-Ring Boss side of the adapter (AEI-15607), leaving the male -8 AN (37* flare) end facing up as installed in the car. Screw the Earl’s 45* swivel hose end (AT804608ERL) into the quick connect assembly. Run the proper length of hose from the 45* hose end into a 90* hose end (AT809108ERL). This will run to the inlet of the fuel rails. Screw one -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter (AEI-15607) into each end of the driver’s side fuel rails to adapt the rails to -8 AN male ends – again, the O-Ring Boss side of the adapter goes into the female threads of the rails. Screw the 90* hose end into the front (or rear if that’s where you want the inlet) of the driver’s side rail. At the opposite end of the rail, make a cross-over line using two 90* hose ends (AT809108ERL) and the proper length of hose. The passenger side fuel rail gets the last -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter in the end that the cross-over is on and the other end of the fuel rail gets the -8 ORB slim line plug. The fuel will dead end at this point allowing the pressure to build as it did from the factory.
Keep in mind that I used some fairly expensive line and hose ends - if you don't want black ends, you can see what other finishes are out there as long as the sizes match the list I gave above. I think there are ones in a nickel finish and the standard blue/red ends.
I've had the best luck with Earl's hose ends and lines, but they are more expensive than some of the other stuff out there (Summit has their own brand, but I'm not sure who makes it for them before they throw their name on it). Russel also makes adapters that plug into the factory quick connect hard line and converts it to an AN fitting, but the Aeromotive quick connects are much nicer, albeit more expensive.
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From: Alexandria La.
Awesome, thanks!!
And here's some part numbers for stuff I used to plumb my FAST fuel rails (this is only a list if you aren't running a return system from the rails - if you are, you'll need some more stuff that is specific to doing that):
The following is the exact list of parts I used on my car to hook up my FAST fuel rails when I was still using the regulator in the tank. The part numbers are from Summit Racing, so if you get them from somewhere else, you'll have to do some cross-referencing.
Fuel Rail Fittings – Using 3/8” Factory Hard Line for Feed
1 x AEI-15118 – Aeromotive AN Quick Connect Adapter Fitting
4 x AEI-15607 – Aeromotive -8 O-Ring Boss to -8 AN Adapter
1 x AEI-15618 – Aeromotive -8 O-Ring Boss Slim Line Plug
3 x AT809108ERL – Earl’s -8 AN 90* Swivel Hose End (Black)
1 x AT804608ERL – Earl’s -8 AN 45* Swivel Hose End (Black)
1 x 406008ERL – Earl’s -8 AN Stainless Braided Hose (6 ft)
Where everything goes in order from the factory hard line:
Aeromotive AN Quick Connect (AEI-15118) attaches to hard line. Screw one -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter (AEI-15607) into the female threaded end of the quick connect fitting. The female threaded end of the quick connect fitting (AEI-15118) accepts the O-Ring Boss side of the adapter (AEI-15607), leaving the male -8 AN (37* flare) end facing up as installed in the car. Screw the Earl’s 45* swivel hose end (AT804608ERL) into the quick connect assembly. Run the proper length of hose from the 45* hose end into a 90* hose end (AT809108ERL). This will run to the inlet of the fuel rails. Screw one -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter (AEI-15607) into each end of the driver’s side fuel rails to adapt the rails to -8 AN male ends – again, the O-Ring Boss side of the adapter goes into the female threads of the rails. Screw the 90* hose end into the front (or rear if that’s where you want the inlet) of the driver’s side rail. At the opposite end of the rail, make a cross-over line using two 90* hose ends (AT809108ERL) and the proper length of hose. The passenger side fuel rail gets the last -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter in the end that the cross-over is on and the other end of the fuel rail gets the -8 ORB slim line plug. The fuel will dead end at this point allowing the pressure to build as it did from the factory.
Keep in mind that I used some fairly expensive line and hose ends - if you don't want black ends, you can see what other finishes are out there as long as the sizes match the list I gave above. I think there are ones in a nickel finish and the standard blue/red ends.
I've had the best luck with Earl's hose ends and lines, but they are more expensive than some of the other stuff out there (Summit has their own brand, but I'm not sure who makes it for them before they throw their name on it). Russel also makes adapters that plug into the factory quick connect hard line and converts it to an AN fitting, but the Aeromotive quick connects are much nicer, albeit more expensive.
The following is the exact list of parts I used on my car to hook up my FAST fuel rails when I was still using the regulator in the tank. The part numbers are from Summit Racing, so if you get them from somewhere else, you'll have to do some cross-referencing.
Fuel Rail Fittings – Using 3/8” Factory Hard Line for Feed
1 x AEI-15118 – Aeromotive AN Quick Connect Adapter Fitting
4 x AEI-15607 – Aeromotive -8 O-Ring Boss to -8 AN Adapter
1 x AEI-15618 – Aeromotive -8 O-Ring Boss Slim Line Plug
3 x AT809108ERL – Earl’s -8 AN 90* Swivel Hose End (Black)
1 x AT804608ERL – Earl’s -8 AN 45* Swivel Hose End (Black)
1 x 406008ERL – Earl’s -8 AN Stainless Braided Hose (6 ft)
Where everything goes in order from the factory hard line:
Aeromotive AN Quick Connect (AEI-15118) attaches to hard line. Screw one -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter (AEI-15607) into the female threaded end of the quick connect fitting. The female threaded end of the quick connect fitting (AEI-15118) accepts the O-Ring Boss side of the adapter (AEI-15607), leaving the male -8 AN (37* flare) end facing up as installed in the car. Screw the Earl’s 45* swivel hose end (AT804608ERL) into the quick connect assembly. Run the proper length of hose from the 45* hose end into a 90* hose end (AT809108ERL). This will run to the inlet of the fuel rails. Screw one -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter (AEI-15607) into each end of the driver’s side fuel rails to adapt the rails to -8 AN male ends – again, the O-Ring Boss side of the adapter goes into the female threads of the rails. Screw the 90* hose end into the front (or rear if that’s where you want the inlet) of the driver’s side rail. At the opposite end of the rail, make a cross-over line using two 90* hose ends (AT809108ERL) and the proper length of hose. The passenger side fuel rail gets the last -8 ORB to -8 AN adapter in the end that the cross-over is on and the other end of the fuel rail gets the -8 ORB slim line plug. The fuel will dead end at this point allowing the pressure to build as it did from the factory.
Keep in mind that I used some fairly expensive line and hose ends - if you don't want black ends, you can see what other finishes are out there as long as the sizes match the list I gave above. I think there are ones in a nickel finish and the standard blue/red ends.
I've had the best luck with Earl's hose ends and lines, but they are more expensive than some of the other stuff out there (Summit has their own brand, but I'm not sure who makes it for them before they throw their name on it). Russel also makes adapters that plug into the factory quick connect hard line and converts it to an AN fitting, but the Aeromotive quick connects are much nicer, albeit more expensive.
I'm gonna bump this as I have a question.
Can I gut the regulator and leave the body in there? I mean, from what I've seen on this setup, the return seems to assist in filling the bowl for the pump. if I completely remove it, there may be fuel spraying (if it will spray) and not being directed into the bucket.
Can I gut the regulator and leave the body in there? I mean, from what I've seen on this setup, the return seems to assist in filling the bowl for the pump. if I completely remove it, there may be fuel spraying (if it will spray) and not being directed into the bucket.
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I'm gonna bump this as I have a question.
Can I gut the regulator and leave the body in there? I mean, from what I've seen on this setup, the return seems to assist in filling the bowl for the pump. if I completely remove it, there may be fuel spraying (if it will spray) and not being directed into the bucket.
Can I gut the regulator and leave the body in there? I mean, from what I've seen on this setup, the return seems to assist in filling the bowl for the pump. if I completely remove it, there may be fuel spraying (if it will spray) and not being directed into the bucket.
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From what I understand of it the venturi the little black thing in the bottom of the bucket is what pulls the fuel in. It works just like an eductor pulling fuel into the bucket. I am sure the reg helps but I don't think it is necessary. You could try to gut and install but if it causes to much back pressure you might have issues keeping your static pressure where its supposed to be.
Last edited by Preston99WS6; Mar 1, 2012 at 09:06 PM. Reason: added more
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I'm gonna bump this as I have a question.
Can I gut the regulator and leave the body in there? I mean, from what I've seen on this setup, the return seems to assist in filling the bowl for the pump. if I completely remove it, there may be fuel spraying (if it will spray) and not being directed into the bucket.
Can I gut the regulator and leave the body in there? I mean, from what I've seen on this setup, the return seems to assist in filling the bowl for the pump. if I completely remove it, there may be fuel spraying (if it will spray) and not being directed into the bucket.
There is a small tube that connects to a nipple on the fuel pump and connects to the venturi pump.
^ Ah.. I forgot about that little line on the pump! Good deal! Thanks.. Just didn't want to **** the pump off by not having enough fuel in the bucket..
And Preston99WS6, good point on the pressure. I was wondering that also. I've got the FPR fittings and a gauge on the way. Gotta go to the local place tomorrow and get a quote for 20' of my black braided hose.
And Preston99WS6, good point on the pressure. I was wondering that also. I've got the FPR fittings and a gauge on the way. Gotta go to the local place tomorrow and get a quote for 20' of my black braided hose.
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The small tube is visible in photo 3 and 4 in post 1
it is the small line that loops up and back down next the the regulator housing.
I don't know why you guys are always trying to re-invent the wheel.
The 5th gen is a return fuel system. With the addition of the correct Walbro pump is capable.
The OP is correct in photo 1, that is the fuel return line.
bayer-z28
Be ready for sticker shock when you find out how much the cost is per foot of hose.
Last time I inquired it was $15.00 to $20.00 per foot.
it is the small line that loops up and back down next the the regulator housing.
I don't know why you guys are always trying to re-invent the wheel.
The 5th gen is a return fuel system. With the addition of the correct Walbro pump is capable.
The OP is correct in photo 1, that is the fuel return line.
bayer-z28
Be ready for sticker shock when you find out how much the cost is per foot of hose.
Last time I inquired it was $15.00 to $20.00 per foot.
Last edited by Ollie8974; Mar 3, 2012 at 09:26 AM.
^ I got a guy that can get me 15' for $127. He runs a local shop and he's also my co-worker. I found some Earls or Russel braided black fabric hose for ~$110 for 20'. Just wondering what the local guys can do.
And what do you mean b by "reinvent the wheel?" Not trying to be a wise-***, I'm just looking for some clarification. (I bumped an old thread too, if you haven't noticed)
And what do you mean b by "reinvent the wheel?" Not trying to be a wise-***, I'm just looking for some clarification. (I bumped an old thread too, if you haven't noticed)
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Yes, I did notice resurrecting the old post. How ever those are good reference photos and info, as well as the links in post #4.
What I am saying why are people replacing fuel lines, adding external pumps, eliminating vapor canisters etc. Yes, replace the fuel pump with a direct replacement Racetronix and eliminate the fuel pressure regulator with a properly installed vacuum or pressure referenced on the engine. The stock fuel lines will handle up to 1200 hp with the addition of three pumps. I am converting a 455 Pontiac to EFI. using a 4th gen fuel pump module purchased from VETTEWORKS, connected to the stock fuel lines. Yes I have replaced the lines with new only because of age. This set up will be controlled with a MegaSquirt
with sequential injection and COP ignition. Expecting 500 to 600 HP
What I am saying why are people replacing fuel lines, adding external pumps, eliminating vapor canisters etc. Yes, replace the fuel pump with a direct replacement Racetronix and eliminate the fuel pressure regulator with a properly installed vacuum or pressure referenced on the engine. The stock fuel lines will handle up to 1200 hp with the addition of three pumps. I am converting a 455 Pontiac to EFI. using a 4th gen fuel pump module purchased from VETTEWORKS, connected to the stock fuel lines. Yes I have replaced the lines with new only because of age. This set up will be controlled with a MegaSquirt
with sequential injection and COP ignition. Expecting 500 to 600 HP
Last edited by Ollie8974; Mar 4, 2012 at 09:32 AM.
^ Ah.. ok..
And I haven't read about too many people using megasquirt. It's been a while. I've had my eye on the FAST EZEFI or XFI system for a while now. if I ever do a chassis up rebuild, i'd run that in a heartbeat. I'd love to do an early 90's Monte SS build.
But anyway.. I'm leaving my stock supply line now, plumbing a -6 through a 13101 Bypass regulator. 8 in 8 out and 6 return, dead end. Don't feel like doing the Y block. Parts came in, I figured everything out and I just need some extra -8 line, fittings and gotta find a spot to stick the regulator. Thinking next to the radiator.
And I haven't read about too many people using megasquirt. It's been a while. I've had my eye on the FAST EZEFI or XFI system for a while now. if I ever do a chassis up rebuild, i'd run that in a heartbeat. I'd love to do an early 90's Monte SS build.
But anyway.. I'm leaving my stock supply line now, plumbing a -6 through a 13101 Bypass regulator. 8 in 8 out and 6 return, dead end. Don't feel like doing the Y block. Parts came in, I figured everything out and I just need some extra -8 line, fittings and gotta find a spot to stick the regulator. Thinking next to the radiator.
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From: South of Augusta,GA
Been wanting to go to a return style fuel system and want to make sure I'm doing this right. Did some searching and found a litle info on this but no pics so I decided to post some and get some feed back from some of those of you that have already done this.
This info & pics are for 99-02 PLASTIC tank F-bodies.
First heres the tank, I have circled the line that I suspect will be the line to use.
Here's where you will actually connect a new return line down here, do it this way if you want to retain the evap system.
This is the part I'm unsure of, what part # for the fitting to connect a -6 line to this GM quick disconnect?
&
What type & size of plug do you need to plug the "T" block on the stock feed line?
Here's a pic of the regulator that you MUST remove, its already been removed in this pic.
Another pic of the regulator removed, I guess the black housing can stay on, didnt see a way to remove it.
Hope these pics are helpful to some in the future, please correct me if I'm wrong and I will edit my post. May not be a bad idea to do a sticky on this. I looked but didnt find too much info on this (sorry if I overlooked anything)
This info & pics are for 99-02 PLASTIC tank F-bodies.
First heres the tank, I have circled the line that I suspect will be the line to use.
Here's where you will actually connect a new return line down here, do it this way if you want to retain the evap system.
This is the part I'm unsure of, what part # for the fitting to connect a -6 line to this GM quick disconnect?
&
What type & size of plug do you need to plug the "T" block on the stock feed line?
Here's a pic of the regulator that you MUST remove, its already been removed in this pic.
Another pic of the regulator removed, I guess the black housing can stay on, didnt see a way to remove it.
Hope these pics are helpful to some in the future, please correct me if I'm wrong and I will edit my post. May not be a bad idea to do a sticky on this. I looked but didnt find too much info on this (sorry if I overlooked anything)
