Bogging Problem, What is it? :(
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If i am going into a right turn (does not happen during a left turn), and begin to acccelerate out out if, my car seems to seriously bog down for a second, then catch itself and continue accelerating. What could be causing this problem? It seems to only be during tight right turns, and every time it occurs i noticed i have 1/4 tank of gas or less. Could the two front O2 sensors that went bad cause this by making my car run rich, and when accelerating out of the turn provide too much fuel and in turn causing the bogging sensation? I have two new ones on the way, but any other ideas what it could be?
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Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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By clearing my PCM do you mean taking a code scanner and deleting the codes? Not sure how to delete stuff off my PCM...And it won't effect the tune i got either would it?
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have you thought bout fuel level sensor, or a problem with the pump picking up the fuel? inertia switch? don't really see how the o2's would do this. If you guys have insight, please inform me.
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This is important, because your bad O2 sensor(s) would likely have fed bad data to the PCM causing the Long Term Fuel Trim data to be skewed. With new O2 sensors you want it to start with a clean slate.
Calibration data is stored to flash memory, so it will not be affected and any custom tuning that was performed will be there when you reconnect the battery.
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Could the two front O2 sensors that went bad cause this...
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[QUOTE=He seems to know that his two front O2 sensors are not functioning. Not much point diagnosing further until he has a properly-functioning powertrain control system.[/QUOTE]
Definitely agree.
Definitely agree.
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These are wonderful ideas thank you! My fuel level varies a lot! Sometimes I turn my car on and I think...omg did someone siphon off an 1/8 of my gas?! I never would have thought of that. Where that fuel level sensor located? Also what is the inertia switch and where is that?
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No, I mean leaving the PCM unpowered long enough for the stored fuel trim data to clear. You'll want the battery disconnected while you're replacing the O2 sensors anyway, that should take plenty long enough for the PCM to reset.
This is important, because your bad O2 sensor(s) would likely have fed bad data to the PCM causing the Long Term Fuel Trim data to be skewed. With new O2 sensors you want it to start with a clean slate.
Calibration data is stored to flash memory, so it will not be affected and any custom tuning that was performed will be there when you reconnect the battery.
This is important, because your bad O2 sensor(s) would likely have fed bad data to the PCM causing the Long Term Fuel Trim data to be skewed. With new O2 sensors you want it to start with a clean slate.
Calibration data is stored to flash memory, so it will not be affected and any custom tuning that was performed will be there when you reconnect the battery.
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Since you have evidently been doing a lot of undercar work
(and have sensor issues) you might begin by inspecting
sensor wiring harnesses for chafing etc. that could short
signals to block variably.
(and have sensor issues) you might begin by inspecting
sensor wiring harnesses for chafing etc. that could short
signals to block variably.