fuel tank wont take gas...?
04-27-2011, 10:21 AM
#1
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fuel tank wont take gas...? Never seen this before. I went to fuel up and fuel just started spilling out of my car so I thought It may be the nozzle I was using. Switched nozzles...same thing. Im like wtf? Drove home and poked a hanger down to see if there may be an object obstructing the gas from getting in... push a little and then PROJECTILE fuel went everywhere. That happened three times... then I went to fill up and only did bout half a tank. Went and bought some seafoam to try to clean my tank and then went back to finish filling up so id have a full tank for the canister of seafoam. Again it wouldn't really take any fuel it just kinda pooled at the opening of the tank. I go home and pour the seafoam in the tank and it sat there for a minute then just drained in really fast suddenly. Haven't tried adding gas again but wtf could that be?
04-27-2011, 04:12 PM
#3
Check the charcol canister, make sure it's not rattling or blown apart inside, have seen this many times. little chunks of charchoal plug up the vent and close valve. Not sure if our car's have ORVR valves for rollover protection, but I would investigate that as well.
04-27-2011, 09:36 PM
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Ok. Its just odd cuz I did the headers and did a few more things under the hood... painted valve covers and stuff, nothing big... and it sat for a week while I did that. Then filled up and BOOM. Anyone know how to "check" the charcoal canister? Another thing. My friends bone stock 2001 z28 doesn't have a charcoal canister... are they somewhere else on the newer cars?
04-28-2011, 06:41 PM
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In general, here are the major issues that cause fill problems on ORVR (onboard refueling vapor recovery) equipped cars:
1) Bad ICV (inlet check valve): This is a plastic check valve located on the surface of tank where the fill hose connects. It has a spring that keeps it closed, but then opens when you start pumping gas into the tank. The ICV can get stuck shut due to plastic swelling/sticking issues. The ICV assembly is generally welded to the tank, so If goes bad, you have to replace your whole tank.
2) Bad FLVV (Fill limit vent valve): This valve is located on top of the tank or is integrated into the fuel delivery module. It will allow vapors to escape the tank at all times, until you fill up the tank to full, then a float shuts off the vent hole and that triggers the fill nozzle to shut off. Much like the ICV, the FLVV has plastic and rubber components that can degrade, swell...and stick shut. If it sticks shut, you won't be able to vent the tank vapors and thus won't be able to pump gas into the tank at a high rate.
3) Vent line attached to the top of the FLVV vent port leading off the tank is clogged or plugged; sometimes it's spider webs/insects or gunk from the tank.
4) The vent line then attaches to the CVS (Canister vent solenoid) and Canister. The charcoal in the canister can get all gunked up over time and not allow vapors to pass through it any longer. The CVS is a valve that is normally open and allows tank vapors to pass through it, however it is periodically triggered by the ECU to shut- which allows pressure checks on the Evap system. The CVS can malfunction and stick shut and not allow tank vapors to escape.
1) Bad ICV (inlet check valve): This is a plastic check valve located on the surface of tank where the fill hose connects. It has a spring that keeps it closed, but then opens when you start pumping gas into the tank. The ICV can get stuck shut due to plastic swelling/sticking issues. The ICV assembly is generally welded to the tank, so If goes bad, you have to replace your whole tank.
2) Bad FLVV (Fill limit vent valve): This valve is located on top of the tank or is integrated into the fuel delivery module. It will allow vapors to escape the tank at all times, until you fill up the tank to full, then a float shuts off the vent hole and that triggers the fill nozzle to shut off. Much like the ICV, the FLVV has plastic and rubber components that can degrade, swell...and stick shut. If it sticks shut, you won't be able to vent the tank vapors and thus won't be able to pump gas into the tank at a high rate.
3) Vent line attached to the top of the FLVV vent port leading off the tank is clogged or plugged; sometimes it's spider webs/insects or gunk from the tank.
4) The vent line then attaches to the CVS (Canister vent solenoid) and Canister. The charcoal in the canister can get all gunked up over time and not allow vapors to pass through it any longer. The CVS is a valve that is normally open and allows tank vapors to pass through it, however it is periodically triggered by the ECU to shut- which allows pressure checks on the Evap system. The CVS can malfunction and stick shut and not allow tank vapors to escape.
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05-17-2011, 10:46 PM
#10
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for right now you can purge the evap valve its a green cap that runs up with your fuel lines pretty much like a shradder valve hold it down like your letting air out and gas will go in the tank get you buy for now at least thats why i have to do 
hope this helps ya some
hope this helps ya some 