6an same as 3/8?
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6an same as 3/8? I'm running some fuel lines and getting conflicting data on 6AN and 3/8
The ID of a 3/8 hose is...3/8...which should be the ID of a 6an hose.
Problem is, I have some 6an hose and the ID looks like it is smaller than my 3/8 hose. I'm comparing braided 6an to 3/8 rubber though. The 6an doesn't want to go over the 3/8in barbs it seems to small.
Am I crazy here or what?
The ID of a 3/8 hose is...3/8...which should be the ID of a 6an hose.
Problem is, I have some 6an hose and the ID looks like it is smaller than my 3/8 hose. I'm comparing braided 6an to 3/8 rubber though. The 6an doesn't want to go over the 3/8in barbs it seems to small.
Am I crazy here or what?
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http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...cat/cat161.htm
According to this, AN and hard line are OD measurements and NPT is inside diameter so for AN and hard line the inside diameter would depend on the thickness of the tubing.
According to this, AN and hard line are OD measurements and NPT is inside diameter so for AN and hard line the inside diameter would depend on the thickness of the tubing.
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No way the 6an hose fits over the 3/8 barbs for the PCV system. Even if I cut the flare off it still wouldn't fit.
8an hose is too big, would need a clamp and would still wiggle around a bit.
Only good solution I can think of is to use 3/8 hose, was kind of hoping to have all black nylon braided AN lines for Fuel/Coolant/PCV.
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Because my valve covers don't have AN fittings on them for PCV, they have barbs.
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Maybe I'll cover the 3/8 PVC hose in a nylon braid..this kind of turned into an appearance and detailing thread.
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Is there enough material in there to tap?
What about the fittings on the Throttle body and the composite material intake, can you tap those?
Drilling and tapping an npt then slapping an NPT to AN fitting is not something I'm not opposed to but I don't want to drill my intake to discover it's like 1/16in thick.
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There isn't a lot of material to tap to be honest. I've seen a few people tap a few threads into it, cover the threads on the fittings with epoxy, and then around the threads on the underside of the valve cover with epoxy. They never seemed to have an issue out of it.
I looked up "welder" on google maps. There's a dozen companies within a few miles of me that do welding and fabrication. I've had them do all of my aluminum for my build for cheap. Welding a -10 AN oil return bung into my oil pan was $10.
Just depends on which route you want to go. Personally, I'd weld the fitting into the cover. AN lines/fittings are SO much better than NPT (no sealer/thread tape), and infinitely better than hose clamps.
I looked up "welder" on google maps. There's a dozen companies within a few miles of me that do welding and fabrication. I've had them do all of my aluminum for my build for cheap. Welding a -10 AN oil return bung into my oil pan was $10.
Just depends on which route you want to go. Personally, I'd weld the fitting into the cover. AN lines/fittings are SO much better than NPT (no sealer/thread tape), and infinitely better than hose clamps.
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Just going to run the below for my 3/8 hoses over them just a braided nylon cover similar to cable management stuff, it's cheap and should match the AN lines more or less. (yes, this is just for aesthetics) If a mod wants to move this to appearance and detailing I won't be upset.
AN hose is the inside diameter. Basicly it is 16ths of an inch, -06 is 6/16 or 3/8. This is not exact and can vary between manufacturers. One of the reasons braided line won't fit over barbs is it can't expand enough, it is not designed to expand like rubber hose. I have gotten some braided stainless hose over barb fittings and used hose finishers (they look like a nut and have a hose clamp inside).
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AN hose is the inside diameter. Basicly it is 16ths of an inch, -06 is 6/16 or 3/8. This is not exact and can vary between manufacturers. One of the reasons braided line won't fit over barbs is it can't expand enough, it is not designed to expand like rubber hose. I have gotten some braided stainless hose over barb fittings and used hose finishers (they look like a nut and have a hose clamp inside).
AN is outside diameter. If you don't believe tanks inc how about Holley?
http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...ad%20Sizes.pdf
AN is outside diameter. If you don't believe tanks inc how about Holley?
http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...ad%20Sizes.pdf
http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...ad%20Sizes.pdf
The idea behind AN hoses and fittings was to provide a flexible alternative to rigid tubing in plumbing aircraft and military vehicles. Sizes for rigid tubes were standardized, with sizes called out by tubing OD (3/16", 1/2", etc). AN hose sizes were designed to match the ID sizes of these rigid tubes. Can you see the confusion starting? Tubing is known by OD, but the hoses are sized according to the tubing ID -- not the hose OD or even the hose ID.
AN hose sizes are based on the nominal OD of the tubing with a matching ID. It sounds convoluted, but it really is a simple idea and a logical goal. If hoses were called out using the hose OD (the same system used for tubing), the ID of a 3/8" hose would be much smaller than the ID of a 3/8" tube. Add to that the fact that different hoses have different wall thicknesses, and it would be impossible to predict the hose size required for any application.
However what is said on the Holley site only confuses the issue even more.
For example, the inside diameter of an Earl’s size 6 hose end is nearly as large as the inside diameter of some other manufacturers’ -8 hose ends.
If both hoses are built to the AN standard they would have the same inside diameter.
As it says above tube is measured in OD hose in ID so if two hoses are built to the same spec they would have the same ID.
I guess my confusion was based on the fact that hose is measured ID so that is how I figured the spec was measured. And there are some hose manufacturers that do make their -6 hose at 3/8 or close enough to not make a difference.
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