Doing an E85 Only supported build. What will I need?
Anyways, my car has 31k miles and is bone stock other than some suspension and an S60 with 4.10's. My current goal towards a setup is looking like the following:
-Modest Cam thats only big enough to safely have rocker arms and valve springs as supporting mods.
-Fast 92 Intake & Throttle Body
-TSP 1 3/4 longtubes with High flow Cats
I have done some research on E85 supporting mods and from I've gathered, I will need larger injectors and a larger fuel pump (size depending on type of power I'm planning on pushing) and of course a dyno tune.
My question is, do you any of you have a similar setup or could recommend a solid size of injectors and fuel pump based on my goals?
At the least, a suggestion for a modest cam? Thanks guys, I appreciate it!
Anyways, my car has 31k miles and is bone stock other than some suspension and an S60 with 4.10's. My current goal towards a setup is looking like the following:
-Modest Cam thats only big enough to safely have rocker arms and valve springs as supporting mods.
-Fast 92 Intake & Throttle Body
-TSP 1 3/4 longtubes with High flow Cats
I have done some research on E85 supporting mods and from I've gathered, I will need larger injectors and a larger fuel pump (size depending on type of power I'm planning on pushing) and of course a dyno tune.
My question is, do you any of you have a similar setup or could recommend a solid size of injectors and fuel pump based on my goals?
At the least, a suggestion for a modest cam? Thanks guys, I appreciate it!
Everyone who goes to E85 does it for the racegas like effects it gives, all at a cheaper than 87 octane price (although your fuel mileage on E85 will be MUCH worse, and you'll end up paying as much as premium anyways as you'll have to fill up much more often). E85 keeps things very cool IAT wise and keeps you far away from detonation. This is critical on boosted setups where higher IATs are present, and boost, and timing added put you in a more dangerous position.
Stock cars or cars with your future mods really don't have any added benefit of running E85. Its not going to "gain" you any more power, or keep you safer than you already are with the factory recommended premium fuel.
That being said, if you still think going E85 is right for your car, you'll need fuel pump, lines, connectors and injectors to support E85 (and yes a tune). Its not going to be cheap, and again, for zero added performance or safety, it goes again to question why?
FWIW, Ethanol by the time it is harvested, transported, refined, and delivered has produced more fuel waste and more carbon than just buying regular gasoline does. If you are doing it purely for the tree hugging stuff, you are doing it for the wrong reasons.
Also, you said I would have to replace my lines. No wouldn't, the fuel lines can handle it, ethanol is less corrosive than pump gas. And with a small cam and some mild boltons, e85, and a tune, I believe that'd be good for about 100 whp, but that's my opinion. It's also A dramatically smaller carbon footprint as opposed to the miniscule difference like you think.
Just looking for an idea on pump size and I jector size with these mods in mind, thanks.
Also, you said I would have to replace my lines. No wouldn't, the fuel lines can handle it, ethanol is less corrosive than pump gas. And with a small cam and some mild boltons, e85, and a tune, I believe that'd be good for about 100 whp, but that's my opinion. It's also A dramatically smaller carbon footprint as opposed to the miniscule difference like you think.
Just looking for an idea on pump size and I jector size with these mods in mind, thanks.
And no, I wasn't just BSing you on the E85
http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/...ison-test.html
AGAIN, I'm set on doing this. I believe it's incredibly beneficial for my cars power and for less of a carbon footprint. I just want an idea of injector size and fuel pump. Thanks.
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Not to mention, I never said anyone didn't also add a supporting tune, don't know wherebyoure getting that.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...r-ls1-e85.html
105 octane, not corrosive.
Lol, man you can call it BS, but C16, E85, meth injection are all doing the same thing. They don't magically give your car power. They allow your car to adjust the timing and add boost and run at different levels that otherwise would cause detonation. If you are stating that they don't without a tune, then we are saying the same thing, but the fuel itself no matter what it is will not directly give you more power on its own. Don't believe me? I'm sure you don't cause I've basically been repeating the same thing you don't agree with. Prove me wrong. Find me the dyno that shows a car running on pump gas that had a change in power by ONLY changing fuel. You are not going to find one to support what you believe.
If you want to run E-85 that's fine and it can be fun but I'd recommend adding milled heads to your list and maybe some higher flow heads as your going to be pushing more through them.
Generally speaking, wou will make a little more power with E85 on a hot day. Simnply getting a colder/denser air:fuel charge will make more power. Not a lot, but some. On a cold day, the engine will most likely run about the same. But it takes longer to get it going on a cold day.
In the summer, I run it on the street, too. Makes good power, smells good, and the engine runs nice and cool in traffic. The E-85 is hard to find, though. I was in Moab a couple of years ago. Man, it was hot! While stuck in construction traffic, the cars in our group were worried about overheating. But I didn't have any trouble.
As you already know, you'll need a proper tune. A common misconception is that you can and should run more timing, because of the higher octane. But I run less timing for more power; alcohol burns a little slower. You can figure that out on the dyno.
You'll need to burn about 20-25% more fuel. You need to make sure your pump can supply the volume. The stock nylon lines will be fine. If you're going to significantly increase the power levels, you'll probably want to run 2 lines to handle the volume; along with aftermarket rails.
The LS1 I'm building now will also run on e85, with no provisions for gasoline. It will be almost strictly a track car. I used some bigger injectors just to make things a little easier for future upgrades. Not sure if I really need them. But it seemed like a good idea at the time.
My SBF is primarily a street car, with a moderate amount of road racing - about 6-7 week ends per year. To make it easy to switch back and forth between fuels, I'm using a Megasquirt controller for fuel and spark. It holds two tunes, and I switch back and forth with a switch on the dash. For a street car, the ability to switch back and forth is really nice.
The charge cooling ability is what translates to the gains the FI guys see just from the fuel switch.
The charge cooling ability is what translates to the gains the FI guys see just from the fuel switch.
Race fuel wll not add power, or add any cooling to the charge temp.
Anything that cools the intake charge insid the combustion chamber will add power. Cool air:fuel is denser. More air, and more fuel = more power. power is directly dependent on how much fuel and oxygen you can pack into the combustion chamber and light on fire. That's why forced induction and big displacement works so well.
Adding more timing advance does not add more power. The appropriate timing advance adds more power. Sounds like the same thing, but isn't really. Differant fuels and engines require differant advance settings to achieve the goal.
The goal is to have the flame front reach it's maximum expansion at exactly the right time - just at or a little past TDC. If a fuel burns slowly (like Sunoco 110), then you add more timing to start the flame front sooner. If a fuel burns quicker (like ethenol), you take away some timing advance. Too much timing will have the maximum expansion before TDC, and that's a bad thing.
As you said, more octane keeps you further away from detonation at high cylinder pressures. You would think that with 110 octane, you can run a lot of cylinder pressure and be safe. Unfortunatly, e-85 is often mixed with the worst and cheapest gasoling available - the dregs from the bottom of the tank. That can sometimes cause detonation underneath the first ring land. Looks like a scene from "Alien".
E-85 can be some good stuff. Don't knock it until you try it.
I don't know if I agree more power is had purely by adding the E85 alone. Yes it's lower IATs, and thus cooler intake charge temps. I have yet to ever been shown this difference on a dyno where actual numeric HP was shown as a gain over pump gas with nothing changed on the tune.
What you can see is the same engine tuned for the two different fuels. Depending on conditions, you can see a power increase. Definitely on a hot day, maybe on a cold day. How much of a difference depends on the engine.

