BigPlanTransAm

So I have an 02 TA with stock internals, rearmount single turbo, and 4L60e transmission. I only put down 450rwhp but I keep blowing third even with a built trans. I was wondering about the feasibility of somehow using the computer to trick the BOV to quickly open/close right before 2-3 to momentarily kill some engine power before that last shift. I'm ok with losing a little ET if it means I can keep using my existing transmission.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

What are the torque management settings in the trans tune?

smitty2919

Surprised you are blowing a "build trans" with only 450. If you made something like 800 I could see that.

Like BudRacing said, look at TQ management numbers in the tune. I had my 03 Silverado 6.0L 2WD tuned and one thing that was adjusted was shift points and times to lessen the slippage. It resulted in quick and abrupt shifts on the 1-2 on anything over 1/2 throttle. I can drive around it, but needs to be adjusted so I can go WOT if needed and not have the trans slam into 2nd. All other shifts are quick and crisp.

Ls1Ryan2002

I'd hate to be that guy, but I'd keep the 60e going until it gives out and once that happens I'd go 80e or th400. I went through 3 60e's before I learned my lesson. I decided to go th400 and have had zero problems.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Its something else, trans should hold that power. TM is a bandaid but should work in this instance. What are you breaking in the trans each time?

G Atsma

If he's blowing 3rd, that's a direct gear. NO reduction or O/D. Forward clutch or mainshaft?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I feel ya on broken 4l60Es, just had one repaired. I aint putting TM back in it though!!!

rpturbo

iTrader: (47)

I have been down the 60e road and will be swapping to a 80e when the boost goes in. I have broke 3 N/A. The last build, was done by myself and friends. I bought good parts from a vendor on here, and it now is living. Truck puts down ~430ish and gets track beaten on. If you honestly have good parts, and the trans temps are down, you should not have a problem with the #'s you have. The problem is, getting a good builder.

Too many shops that are "local" are just jobber shops. They throw parts in and say it's "BUILT" and its really either not, or not assembled correctly. I know every clearance in my trans, and it was done to spec by the vendors numbers. I know my pressures, and my temps. It by no means is a crazy built unit, but it is a 5 pinion planet setup, with extra clutches, good steels, and a (MOST IMPORTANT) good tune.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-hp-track.html

I blame the tune. This talks exactly what youre wanting to do to drop the power at the shift to keep the trans together.

BigPlanTransAm

I haven't taken this one out yet but on previous ones I had taken them to a shop and stupidly didn't ask any questions so I don't know what exactly was broken before.--------------------------------------------------- As for the TQ settings, it shifts quite a bit harder than stock but again I'll have to ask a shop who can read it for me. This time I was staged and on the converter when I was told to back off for a minute before being allowed to restage. Previous times (yes multiple) were either similar situations or hotlapping.------------------------------------------------------ Because of this I think heat has a big part to play, and I do have a transcooler but I'm looking around for where I could fit a bigger one. On the subject of transcoolers, is there any reason not to have multiple coolers in line with each other for the purpose of fitting them in the car? My intercooler takes up most of the radiator and doesn't leave me much room to fit a large transcooler.-------------------------------------- The 4l80 has crossed my mind too but I really would like to take one more stab at the 60. That linked.--------------------------------- Also is this thread really in fueling and injection? I thought I posted to FI board, though maybe transmission would be better. I'm definitely checking out that other trans thread.

dlandsvZ28

Ditto on local shops. My first 'Built' transmission by a local builder lasted less than 7k, never raced, behind a h/c, lts, 390 rwhp ls1. IMO all that was done was a simple rebuild and a shift kit. Never again will I trust local tranny shops.

Get a tranny from one of the vendors on this forum. IMO you will have much better luck and reliability.

That said, you have to know what causes it to break as well such as downshifting, etc. Some think you can drive an auto like a six speed. You can until it breaks.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

I blame the weak transmission design. Killing power to save your transmission is bullshit. The 4l60 has more weak points than most wet paper bags. They were fine as a 700r4 back in the 90's when nobody had more than 300hp at the wheels, but they are useless now.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Nobody's saying the 4l60e doesn't have weaknesses.....but plenty of people posted in that thread that they do something similar and keep the transmission alive and sacrifice little time at the drag strip.