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WS6 Store: Racetronix Fuel Pump, Hotwire & C5 FPR Conversion. Trap Door mod (PICS)
So I'm just gonna make this a little easier. These additional instructions and pics are just to give additional advice and visual to what most of you might have read a previous write-up. If you haven't read it... READ IT FIRST!.. @NineZeroFive wrote a great write-up covering this. My post will make more sense if you're following the instructions provided in the original thread.
So these are the initial measurements I took before cutting it open with a small rotary dremel.
Sides: 6.1" (2" from edge if center groove) Top and Bottom: 7.9" BUT.. If you're adding a Racetronix Hot Wire Kit then look further down. There's some new measurements for that and they were exactly right on the money.
After I got the front and sides cut I slipped a piece of .060 kydex that I use to make gun holsters through the front to act as a blocker of sorts for the wires. I was terrified of clipping a wire .. Worked out perfectly.
Perfect measurements if you're just replacing the pump and sending unit.
Below is what you gotta maneuver the hotwire kit through.if you're doing the Racetronix kit.
Ok ... So the HARDEST part about this install was getting the Racetronix Hot Wire kit up to the sending unit. 2+ hours and nearly 30 attempts and I was ready to grab a 6 pack and walk away. .... That or hurt someone.
.1) You have no way in hell of getting this up there unless you loosen the fuel tank straps and the panhard bar support. That tank needs to come down an inch at the very least. Take my word for it. It just aint gonna happen.
.2) I tried the coat hanger wire but it just kept destroying zip ties. The only option left was to shove that sucker up top with my hand and then treat the wire hanger from the top like a hook and gently maneuver it.
This is when I realized that for the Racetronix HotWire kit to fit/slip through.. you gotta cut a bit more metal out of the access panel. .. Mind you, this is the clearance you get after dropping the tank an inch.
Below are the new measurements
Sides: 6.5" ... Top and Bottom 9.4"
Ok,.. So this is what came of the new WS6 Store C5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Conversion Kit. I like it but I feel like I might want to buy some 90 degree AN fittings for all 3 points. After I bent the lines it just seems like the lines into a 90 degree angle, they seem crimped in a way that just leaves me a little uncomfortable.
Ok ... Back to the fuel pump .. I'm reading how everyone's saying to use a hammer and a flathead along with the might of THOR to knock that retaining ring loose all while the simple and easy thing to do was THIS (below). Took all of 30 seconds.
New Racetronix Pump from WS6 Store as well ... I did modify it by cutting out the fuel pressure regulator out to replace with the little hose that comes in the C5 Fuel Pres Reg Kit.
Don't forget to blow out the bucket with air.
All in all... The install was relatively straight forward. And yes, I am aware that the trap door method is not advised but I just wanted a way to quickly and easily get back in in the future. I don't regret this decision.
TRAP DOOR MOD
THIS is however a bit concerning. I don't know why my fuel pressure is soo darn high. I'm thinking that the 90 degree bends in the lines at the new fuel pressure regulator / filter may be causing this but I'm not sure since everything else went in soo perfectly.
Actually if anyone wants to throw their 2 cents in on this, I'd appreciate it.
Unless your car has 1000 miles dropping the tank is just more time consuming and leaves you open to dropping it again should you have a miswire or dead pump. Good call on the trap door. I agree you shouldn't be seeing 90 psi, that 90 degree is a good place to start but I would check your regulator.
Product?? You cut a hole, get a piece of scrap sheet metal and a hinge, fasten them, DONE!
Yea.. I saw EVERYONE doing THAT as well but I opted for something that I believe looks cleaner, does a better job of keeping potential fumes from seeping into the cab and gives me super quick access if I ever needed it get back in.. Which I'm glad I did because I ironically did need to get back in and pull the pump out recently and I was in and out in less than an hour.
There should be NO gas fumes if all is connected correctly. That is why most who just do as I described have no issues with it.
Touche' ... It just comes out cleaner with the way I did it. I've seen literally only 3 or 4 that didn't look like complete **** pile hack jobs. I work on firearms for a living so I guess I'm just one of those guys who needs things to be done in a very clean and particular way or else it'll just bug me and I'll just completely loose my ****.
Why did you go to the c5 filter regulator for the 255 pump? With the same pump kit as you in my car with stock regulator I was around 60 psi at idle and 58 psi under throttle.
Why did you go to the c5 filter regulator for the 255 pump? With the same pump kit as you in my car with stock regulator I was around 60 psi at idle and 58 psi under throttle.
Do you build pressure enough upon initial startup to just turn the key one and it fires or do you need to do the key dance a few times?
Touche' ... It just comes out cleaner with the way I did it. I've seen literally only 3 or 4 that didn't look like complete **** pile hack jobs. I work on firearms for a living so I guess I'm just one of those guys who needs things to be done in a very clean and particular way or else it'll just bug me and I'll just completely loose my ****.
I thought the c5 filter should be in line with the frame rails like the stock one was, not perpendicular to them? Anyways do you know what size is the hose barb (diameter) under the top hat that is revealed after you remove the stock regulator? The one that you connected the flexible hose that came in the c5 kit using the oetiker clamp? I'm finding that the hose in the c5 kit is to big for the 1/4" barb in mine. Then again, it's not an OEM fuel bucket that I'm using but rather an aftermarket bucket part #E3368M. So I need a 7mm hose that won't break down in fuel made of the same material that the flexible 8mm or 10mm ones are that racetronix supplies that comes in the c5 kit. I'm willing to bet the barb on an oem bucket is 3/8" or 5/16". I may have to settle on using this:
I wonder if that is what is causing the differences in pressure. When did you purchase the kit? I know that WS6 store switched to the "Wix" #33737 brand of the filter because earlier versions of his kit that didn't have the wix brand were showing higher pressure. Or it could be the fact that elbows created during install of the filter is causing the difference in pressure. Or could be that it's a bigger pump. I have the 255 and when I do this mod, I'm hoping the pressure is the same with the wix filter.
I wonder if that is what is causing the differences in pressure. When did you purchase the kit? I know that WS6 store switched to the "Wix" #33737 brand of the filter because earlier versions of his kit that didn't have the wix brand were showing higher pressure. Or it could be the fact that elbows created during install of the filter is causing the difference in pressure. Or could be that it's a bigger pump. I have the 255 and when I do this mod, I'm hoping the pressure is the same with the wix filter.
I purchased the filter kit in February. I will post up a picture of how i did the filter when i get home today so you can see how i did it.
02-02-2020, 06:54 PM
WS6 Store: Racetronix Fuel Pump, Hotwire & C5 FPR Conversion. Trap Door mod (PICS) 
