Holley systems
Yes you can put your desired AFR ratio and it will fill in the fuel tables for you but there is a lot more to the rest of the tune.
The only real difference between the HP and the Dominator are, The Dominator will do DBW and transmission control. The Dominator also have a lot more inputs and outputs. As far as what it can do, You're only limited by your imagination and ability. Boost control can be configured multiple ways, Boost by gear/RPM/Speed/Time and so on.
I could spend hours going everything I know and still not cover half of it. I always joke around and tell people it does just about anything you want except make toast....only because I haven't tried that yet.
Hp tuners doesn't work with the Holley system
The hardest part is initial setup/start up and idle tuning, Once you get it started and idling well enough to drive and let it populate the fuel tables it actually gets you pretty close and you can tweak it from there, If it's a high dollar max effort deal I would let the pro's handle the initial tuning on the dyno and then do the driveability tweaking yourself but that's a big...."IF" you have the basic understanding of both tuning and the Holley software.
The biggest downfall to not using a dyno is that it's not safe to do full pulls on a high powered car on the street and not being able to adjust timing until you stop seeing increases and backing it off and knowing it's safe. I tuned my LSA LY6 on the street myself and it was actually easy but without a dyno or going to the track with a handful of spark plugs I only know that my timing is safe but don't know if I'm leaving power on the table.
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Some people figure this stuff out fast, some people don't. I knew nothing so I paid a professional to get it idling, driving, and do all the WOT and part throttle tuning. WORTH EVERY PENNY. Then I refined idle and sorted out the low-rpm drivability and cold start on my own. I just kept at it and increased my dictionary of curse words and eventually figured it out.
I'm not sure about a boosted engine, but I know for a naturally aspirated engine there is NO REASON to ever get into knock because optimal timing for max torque occurs waaaaay before knock happens. Advancing timing beyond max torque is pointless and you'd have to advance on the order of +5° to induce knock. The beauty of tuning on an eddy current dyno (such as a Mustang dyno) is you can hold the engine at constant speed at any load and find max torque and fill out your entire part-throttle timing map in about 15 minutes. Not going to happen with an inertia dyno. And very difficult and time consuming on the street.
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The part that you'll work on most is driveability, Instead of a choke it uses Air temperature/ Water temperature table that you can adjust to compensate for cold starts or cold climates. So if it see's it's 40 degrees outside you can add a percentage of fuel to compensate for the cool air, This is also a graph so as temp increases you can set it to lessen the enrichment.
It uses an acceleration enrichment table instead of accelerator pump squirter change /accelerator cam rate change. It can seem complicated but once you learn how a carb setting relates to the software setting it gets easier. It's actually so much easier than tuning with a laptop because you can save a copy of your tune then make changes and if it's worse or you made so many changes that you're not sure what went wrong....you simply go back to your old tune. Holley has a decent library of tunes that you can use as a base for your application, Say you have a lightly modified 5.3 or a turbo 5.3 on E85 ....look in the library and pick the one that is closest to your build, It won't be exact but it will give you a base to start off of. You change a few things like injector size and such but it's gets you in the ball park. There are quite a few settings that I didn't even touch because they are already set close enough that once I was up and running and tuned everything else I didn't feel the need to mess with them.
The main focus for me is cold start/acceleration enrichment so it starts easy when cold and idle tuning that consists of Idle spark and IAC ramp down control. With those you can smooth out the idle with fuel and timing settings and the IAC ramp down needs set so after you let off the throttle it will come back down to idle fast enough to make the car easier to drive but not so fast that it dies when you let off the throttle suddenly. Basically you're setting it so the IAC opens fast enough to stop the engine for dropping to an rpm lower than your desired idle and letting it stall but not opening so soon that rpms drop to slowly making the car want keep moving.
Last edited by LLLosingit; Jun 28, 2021 at 11:16 PM.
Most people who have issues with the Holley (myself included) have it with other functions. I still can't get the Holley to control an IAC properly. One minuet it's fine and the next it commands 100%. The last time it did it to me I was at a traffic light and it almost pushed me through. So I used the Holley billet block off plate and set the throttle blade opening to the point were I don't need an IAC. Then I played with the timing at idle so it won't stall. It works ok. If I was driving the car in cold weather I might care more.
I started out with a 4l60e. The Holley let me swap out to a 4L80e with no issue. I just told it what trans I had and it did the rest. So if you have a street car and you like to swap out parts all the time the thing is amazing. If you need to make max power you need to have the thing tuned.
I'm on my 3rd system. Have the terminator hp and dominator in different cars, all depends on your future goals. It does have a little learning curve but even the 50 plus crowd can tune with the holley.
( I also use a laptop to tune it via the holley software). If you need more I/O's or control more intricate stuff, the HP-Dominator might be what you need. Also I do beieve the Dominator has more then one choice of WB o2 you can use. TermX only use the bosh 4.9 type.










