Blown383

iTrader: (2)

Okay... I'm having a hell of a time installing the fittings on the stainless lines... whats the trick? Im inserting the line into the nut and every time I screw in the other half it pushes the hose out of the nut.

Any tips?

-B

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

Im not sure what your saying? what type of lines are these...are they compression fittings...but that wouldnt be AN. Are you flaring the end with a flaring tool? You need a 37 degree flaring tool to make the sealing area?

Blown408

iTrader: (4)

If you are referring to the braided lines, I sprayed some lube on the male part of the fitting before I started screwing it in. Be sure to wrap the line with tape to keep the strands from coming apart. You can use a cut off wheel or a large set of ???? (kind of like bolt cutters) only the blades are curved. I can't remember for the life of me what they are called. When I first started my fuel system, it took me forever to figure out how to do it.

Blown383

iTrader: (2)

Whoops... I ment stainless braided lines! I finally got one in however I scratched the hell out of the fitting AND it only took me 30 minutes!! =(

As for the hardlines I don't have access to a 37 degree flairing tool however I was told that the end of the hard line will conform if I use a 45 degree flare tool. Is that true?

-B

227Hawk

iTrader: (1)

I have pretty good luck putting oil or WD-40 inside the line. I then hold the fitting still(padded vise) and actually turn the hose while pushing it onto the fitting. I've done a couple


Hawk

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

My engine guy said the same thing. put a little 10W30 on the male part of the fitting that is going to go into the hole and use a vise to hold the steel line with a rag to protect the line in the vise... at that point just start cranking it on there.....

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

I just spent all day wrestling with two fittings, sucked.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

NO.
use the correct flare angle for what you're doing. sure it may seal, but the seated area of the seal is ALOT smaller.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

A hard line will NOT conform to 37* when flared to 45*. Do NOT EVER do this unless you want leaks,fires,death,etc.

Try these instructions straight from Earl's/Holley

http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...20Assembly.pdf

Also: http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp

Blown383

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the updates guys! I'll be purchasing a bench vise and the 37 degree flare tool from summit.

-B

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

We use the 10w/30 stuff. I also found out some braided line is just cheap crap and want to push all the time--ie Jegs/summit brand name.So I won't even touch those crap lines again.

Blown383

iTrader: (2)

Awww crap! I just bought a 6 foot piece of -6AN line and a pair of the Summit brand AN fittings and they were crap compared to the stuff I bought at http://www.bonacoinc.com/ which was local to me. Thats what I get for trying to save a buck!


-B

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

when it comes to AN fittings and braided line, you'll find local shops carry the stuff cheaper then anyplace having to do with racing.

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

I use Earl's and Aeroquip as much as I can. PRO-Lite lines from Earl's are SUPER easy to fabricate. If you don't need the abrasion resistance of stainless I highly recommend it.

Skele4door

iTrader: (1)

http://hotrod.com/techarticles/46078/

There is a good article about how to assemble braided lines. It is kind of confusing at first, but after you get the hang of it you'll whip them out in 5-10 mins. The only thing I do differently from the article is after I cut the line I wrap it with tape one more time and tuck a bit of the tape into the inside of the line. This keeps the fitting from catching on the frayed line when you push it over the hose. After the fitting is on I remove the last piece of added tape.