Is this maf translator worth anything. I've got some friends that have these MAF deals and they swear by them. What do they do > besides the obvious. What I mean by "what do they do", is > is it a good idea to use this to control your a/f mixture or is it a problem waiting to happen.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2000silverbullet:
<strong> Is this maf translator worth anything. I've got some friends that have these MAF deals and they swear by them. What do they do > besides the obvious. What I mean by "what do they do", is > is it a good idea to use this to control your a/f mixture or is it a problem waiting to happen. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">In concert with ATAP, you can get your LTrims down to 0 or slightly negative at PT. This assures that the PCM will not add fuel from + LTrims on top of the enrichment added for WOT. It keeps you from going rich in transition to WOT. It also gets your WOT O2s to the .870-.920 range that is considered optimum for our cars.

I've been using mine for around a year, and my car is noticably stronger. I've got full LT exhaust, wide open Borla, lid, K&N, aftermarket MAS, timing tricker. I would not run aftermarket equipment without one.

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<small>[ March 28, 2003, 08:22 AM: Message edited by: SS00Blue ]</small>

 

Thanks for the imput! I'm probably going to get one!

 

better than being super lean/rich......but not NEAR as good as reprograming (LS1Edit, ect....)

They do the job but over time they get water in them, burn out, etc...they are like anything else, the more crap you put, the more problems you will eventually have some day.

Chris

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001CamaroGuy:
<strong> better than being super lean/rich......but not NEAR as good as reprograming (LS1Edit, ect....)</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'd rather use LS1Edit, too. But MAFTs are just as precise as LS1 edit with just bolt-on mods. When the fuel system changes drastically, I'd go to LS1Edit. What the MAFT doesn't do is adjust timing, at least not the MAFT. The MAFT+ does adjust timing, but at $279 you're half way to LS1Edit.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001CamaroGuy:
<strong>They do the job but over time they get water in them, burn out, etc...they are like anything else, the more crap you put, the more problems you will eventually have some day.

Chris </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">LOL! I'd take a serious look at how you're mounting the MAFT if you've gotten water in it. There is NO reason the MAFT shouldn't last as long as your car. Fatalistic thought is just silly. I think that was just a reckless and unfounded statement.

SC-

 

Will a MAFT adjust just for part throttle driving?Reason I ask is i'm getting some KR at part throttle at times and no KR at WOT.If the MAFT will adjust fuel for part throttle that may help.
Or am i way off on this???? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

 

I have many bolt ons, and just need to lean out thru lower RPMs and richin up just a hair at the top of the RPM band > when the boost really kicks in! I'm going to try to attach a Pic of my a/f mixture. By the way a tanslator is only $179.00. LS1 edit still requires more than turning a couple of screws. a/f dyno sheet

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2000silverbullet:
<strong>By the way a tanslator is only $179.00.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks, but I am aware of that. The $279 price was for MAFT+, which allows timing adjustments, as well.

 

Whats a MAFT+? Is this a newer type of translator? By the way > was not trying to wise *** about the price. Sorry if I came off that way.

 

If your car gets KR at part throttle you have issues. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> The idea is to tune the BASE of the MAFT to where your Long term fuel trims are barely negative, then go from there with the WOT setting to get the proper WOT a/f since the computer will automatically adjust part-throttle to 14.7 anyway.

 

Whats KR?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SS00Blue:
<strong> LOL! I'd take a serious look at how you're mounting the MAFT if you've gotten water in it. There is NO reason the MAFT shouldn't last as long as your car. Fatalistic thought is just silly. I think that was just a reckless and unfounded statement.

SC- </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I remember opening it up after a few months and all the heads of the screws inside were rusted (I live in AZ so its not humidity). I had it mounted on the radiator support next to my air filter lid. What I noticed over time was the plastic lid warped/bowed in the middle (between the two screws) allowing water to seep in. The box should have been designed with 6 instead of 4 screws.

The more "stuff" you have, the more chances there are of having malfunctions over time (not just MAFs, that goes for anything....). It’s not unfounded; it’s the law of probability.

Finally, yes they do work quite well.

Chris

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2000silverbullet:
<strong> Whats KR? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">KR stands for Knock Retard.

There are knock sensors in the lifter valley (under the intake manifold) that "listen" for knock. When knock occurs, the computer starts to drop spark advance either 1 or 2 degrees (don't remember which) at a time until the knock goes away. A loss in spark advance results in a loss in performance.

Chris

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> If your car gets KR at part throttle you have issues </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Now I'm a little confused <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> What does KR have to do with a MAFT? Or at least the question I was asking? I know what knock retard is > just not to hip on the abreaveations.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2000silverbullet:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> If your car gets KR at part throttle you have issues </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Now I'm a little confused <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> What does KR have to do with a MAFT? Or at least the question I was asking? I know what knock retard is > just not to hip on the abreaveations. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If you are getting knock retard at part throttle, you are going to get A LOT at WOT. Sometimes, you get knock because you are a little lean or could even use running slightly rich. With the MAFT, you tune the car a little richer in attempt to get rid of the KR. It does not always work but its worth a try.

Chris

 

Im not getting knock retard at part throttle. I guess I don't understand how KR got brought into this topic. I was just wondering how a MAFT worked and if it was worth the money. My question has kind off gotten off track... Oh well <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2000silverbullet:
<strong> Im not getting knock retard at part throttle. I guess I don't understand how KR got brought into this topic. I was just wondering how a MAFT worked and if it was worth the money. My question has kind off gotten off track... Oh well</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Tuning with the MAFT allows you to get as lean as possible without getting any timing pulled because of spark knock (KR). That is optimum rich/lean wise, and that is what the MAFT gives the performance tuning person without the ca$h for LS1-Edit. The answers in this thread are what you requested.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001CamaroGuy:
<strong>I remember opening it up after a few months and all the heads of the screws inside were rusted (I live in AZ so its not humidity). I had it mounted on the radiator support next to my air filter lid. What I noticed over time was the plastic lid warped/bowed in the middle (between the two screws) allowing water to seep in. The box should have been designed with 6 instead of 4 screws.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Oh, I see. I mounted mine with double sided tape on the battery. Very little heat (compared to a 230 degree radiator, and no water. I can see why the device melted. Even 12 screws weren't going to stop that from happening.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001CamaroGuy:
<strong>The more "stuff" you have, the more chances there are of having malfunctions over time (not just MAFs, that goes for anything....). It’s not unfounded; it’s the law of probability.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I just can't go here with you. I don't understand that mentality. You're the same guy that refuses to order power windows or power brakes because it's just "more stuff to go wrong". <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />

You're not ADDING a MAS, just replacing it. And if it's from PACE it's OEM, so it cannot raise the probability that already exists for that equipment to malfunction. Same goes for any equipment, aftermarket or not. If I'm going to put money on performance equipment, it's going to be the aftermarket equipment. THEY don't cheap out on quality like the OEM just to safe 2 cents per unit. Or, at least, if they do, shame on you for buying from them!

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<small>[ April 02, 2003, 08:42 AM: Message edited by: SS00Blue ]</small>

 

SS00blue > Thanks for the help. Thats what I was looking for. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />