SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

I'm trying to get an idea of what all is involved, and how costly it is to install an external fuel pressure regulator. I installed a new fuel pump on my 98 SS a couple weeks ago and had a problem with the regulator (details in another thread), but I'm thinking now that I might have damaged it while trying to get the whole assembly into the tank.

So now I'm doing some research on what's involved with putting in an external fuel pressure regulator, but I couldn't find many/any details with the search feature.

TIA

Chris99WS6PWTMET

I bought an aeromotive regulator (PN 13105), 2 90* elbows, 1 45* elbow, 1 straight hose end fitting, 2 -6 to -4 reducer unions, 1 -5 to -4 reducer union, 1 -6 union, 2 -6 tube nuts w/ sleeves, 1 -5 tube nut w/ sleeve, 10 feet of -4 steel braided hose. I think I spent just over $225 for everything. Earl's fittings can get kind of pricey.

I mounted the regulator on the drivers side fender, removed the in-tank regulator, removed the fuel line T-block in the rear by cutting and flaring the fuel supply lines joining with the -6 union, cut and flared the hard fuel return line using the -5 tube nut and -5 to -4 union. Run fuel line from the rail to reg and reg to -5/-4 reducer and your set.

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the response Chris! If you don't mind me asking, what was your reasoning for going with an external regulator? If I recall correctly (from other threads), you're running an all motor setup, right? I thought typically that external regulators were only used for forced induction?

Chris99WS6PWTMET

I am running NA but when I installed my Walbro in-tank my stock regulator freaked out. I was running close to 76 psi all the time so the adjustable reg was the easy fix. The 13301 is also boost referenced so it can be used in either NA or FI applications.

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

Okay, I've got a couple more questions.

When you remove the stock regulator, do you just take it out and let the fuel drain back into the tank, or do you have to extend the line for any reason?

Also, why do you need need so many different fitting sizes? And is there any chance you have a receipt handy with all the part numbers? I don't follow some of the terminology for the fittings. I'm a fuel system novice.

Chris99WS6PWTMET

Yes, just take out the stock regulator, screen and little black o-ring. It will drain right back into tank.

The different fitting sizes are because I used a -4 line and the FP regulator comes with -6 fittings, so for that I just used 2 -6 to -4 reducers. I'll look for my Earl's catalog later and put a full list together for you.

AZ Power & Sound

iTrader: (2)

I have an aftermarket regulator that mounts ouside of the pump... kinda pricey but its CNC machined billet aluminum and all nice lookin... adjustable between stock and 80 PSI... if your interested email me at moconnorss@aol.com, its just sittin on my tool box

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the tip on the stock regulator. I'm assuming you just remove the wires for the stock regulator from the harness, altogether? I'll be looking forward to seeing that list, that will be a GREAT help. The last time I called Jegs to get all the misc fittings I needed, I had like three extra fittings when it was all said and done, and I had to improvise one other fitting, since one that I needed wasn't there.

Chris99WS6PWTMET

OK here is what you will need:

1 Aeromotive Fuel press. reg - 13105
1 45* hose end - 304604ERL
2 90* hose ends - 309104ERL
1 straight hose end - 300104ERL
2 -6/-4 union reducers - 991906ERL
1 -5/-4 union reducer - 991903ERL
1 -5 tube nut - 581805ERL
1 -5 tube sleeve - 581905ERL
2 -6 tube nuts - 581806ERL
2 -6 tube sleeves - 581906ERL
1 -6/-6 union - 981506ERL
?? feet of -4 steel braided line

If you use the Aeromotive reg you will need to shave the nipple off the -6 side of the -6/-4 reducer prior to installing in the regulator body (dont forget the o-rings - they come on the fittings that are installed on reg from factory).

Once you have all that you just need a cutting/flaring tool and have at it. As far as your question concerning wires to the stock regulator goes - there are no wires going to the stock regulator, it is mechanical.

I am emailing you a few pics of the set up. Hope this helps.

You

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the information Chris, you've been a great help.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

you can use an to hard tube adapters if you dont wannt to use a flair tube or you dont have the tool.

Chris99WS6PWTMET

Good point. Probably a bit cheaper on the wallet too. I just prefer the cleaner look with no hose clamps but both ways will get the job done.

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

I still haven't taken the time to do this, but I'll be getting on it within the next week.

One more thing that another thread brought to my attention.. Where does the new return line come out of the fuel rails at? I've got a 98 which doesn't have a return line that runs to the tank, it's got the T block back by the tank. What's the remedy to that?

Chris99WS6PWTMET

drivers side, front rail. Remove cap, remove scrader valve, install 90* -4 fitting.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

here is my fuel system, same thing just aftermarket rails

http://community.webshots.com/user/mightym0use

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

We have a special on our rails and we can set you up with a new regulator and line to feed them.

Nate