Ford 8.8 Rear buildup questions
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#63
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Mine was around (don't remember too clearly since I bought it from the fabricator "Extreme Chassis" back in 2003) $1,800, shipped to my door on a wooden pallet. I installed it. It bolts up to the stock Torque Arm, the stock drive shaft, the stock LCA/Panhard Rod, stock springs, stock shocks, etc.
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I've had mine for about two years and just installed it. Great so far. The one i bought has the TA mount bolted to the housing Not welded. The weld is where most rears failed as welding steel to cast iron is a a iffy deal even if all procedures are followed. Some hold forever some crack while cooling lol. Mine has all svo parts and stock 10 bolt axles. I'll be upgrading these later
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The only GM part mine has are the 10 bolt tubes leading from the housing out to the flanges. The axles are Moser or Strange. I just had new FORD Motorsport 3.55's installed in April. It's been a great differential, though like you mention, I sometimes worry about the welding giving way. So far, I've raced it for years with slicks, nitrous and now a Turbo. Not a hint of an issue so far
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I've had mine for about two years and just installed it. Great so far. The one i bought has the TA mount bolted to the housing Not welded. The weld is where most rears failed as welding steel to cast iron is a a iffy deal even if all procedures are followed. Some hold forever some crack while cooling lol. Mine has all svo parts and stock 10 bolt axles. I'll be upgrading these later
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Ok I been reading through this and I am very curious.
Please can someone bare with me because I do not know much about rear ends.
I currently drive a 96 Z28 M6 with a bone stock rear end pushing about 450RWHP and 480TQ n/a plus some spray.
I want to go with a ford 8.8 but do not want to spend arm and leg.
I can get the rear end out of a junk yard for a few hundred bucks.
Next question is should I attempt having someone fab up the parts to mount the torque arm or should I go with the 4 way link. and what is the price difference between the two?
Next can I use the stock drive shaft?
Then how would I be able to change out the hub part for the wheels? I do not want to have mustang rims on the rear and camaros on front.
Is there anything else I am missing?
Thanks in advance.
Please can someone bare with me because I do not know much about rear ends.
I currently drive a 96 Z28 M6 with a bone stock rear end pushing about 450RWHP and 480TQ n/a plus some spray.
I want to go with a ford 8.8 but do not want to spend arm and leg.
I can get the rear end out of a junk yard for a few hundred bucks.
Next question is should I attempt having someone fab up the parts to mount the torque arm or should I go with the 4 way link. and what is the price difference between the two?
Next can I use the stock drive shaft?
Then how would I be able to change out the hub part for the wheels? I do not want to have mustang rims on the rear and camaros on front.
Is there anything else I am missing?
Thanks in advance.
#72
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Using the correct 'crossover' u-joint ( off the shelf, surprisingly) you can use the stock driveshaft. You order axles (Strange/Moser) with the ford splines and the Fbody hubs. The torque arm mount can be welded up (prone to cracking) or the bolt on version (listed somewhere in this thread methinks). I would go for the bolt on Torque Arm apparatus.
Ok I been reading through this and I am very curious.
Please can someone bare with me because I do not know much about rear ends.
I currently drive a 96 Z28 M6 with a bone stock rear end pushing about 450RWHP and 480TQ n/a plus some spray.
I want to go with a ford 8.8 but do not want to spend arm and leg.
I can get the rear end out of a junk yard for a few hundred bucks.
Next question is should I attempt having someone fab up the parts to mount the torque arm or should I go with the 4 way link. and what is the price difference between the two?
Next can I use the stock drive shaft?
Then how would I be able to change out the hub part for the wheels? I do not want to have mustang rims on the rear and camaros on front.
Is there anything else I am missing?
Thanks in advance.
Please can someone bare with me because I do not know much about rear ends.
I currently drive a 96 Z28 M6 with a bone stock rear end pushing about 450RWHP and 480TQ n/a plus some spray.
I want to go with a ford 8.8 but do not want to spend arm and leg.
I can get the rear end out of a junk yard for a few hundred bucks.
Next question is should I attempt having someone fab up the parts to mount the torque arm or should I go with the 4 way link. and what is the price difference between the two?
Next can I use the stock drive shaft?
Then how would I be able to change out the hub part for the wheels? I do not want to have mustang rims on the rear and camaros on front.
Is there anything else I am missing?
Thanks in advance.
#73
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Using the correct 'crossover' u-joint ( off the shelf, surprisingly) you can use the stock driveshaft. You order axles (Strange/Moser) with the ford splines and the Fbody hubs. The torque arm mount can be welded up (prone to cracking) or the bolt on version (listed somewhere in this thread methinks). I would go for the bolt on Torque Arm apparatus.
What is wrong with the stock axles that already come in the rear?
Where can I get the right corrossover u joint? and how would I do the bolt on torque arm apparatus?
This doesn't seem too difficult now.
Thanks for you help btw.
#75
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So I can use my stock hubs and use them with the strange/moser axles?
What is wrong with the stock axles that already come in the rear?
Where can I get the right corrossover u joint? and how would I do the bolt on torque arm apparatus?
This doesn't seem too difficult now.
Thanks for you help btw.
What is wrong with the stock axles that already come in the rear?
Where can I get the right corrossover u joint? and how would I do the bolt on torque arm apparatus?
This doesn't seem too difficult now.
Thanks for you help btw.
i will do a breakdown if you are paying someone to do this job... seems these questions are popping up more and more every week.
housing (varies) --
roughly anywhere from 100.00 - 400.00 (depends on the shape and internal components)
ring and pinion --
175.00 - 250.00 (if you arent lucky enough to find the right gearset in the rear you get
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
cover --
120.00 - 175.00 (MAC, trickflow... whatever you want)
axles --
250.00 - 300.00 (depends which manufacturer, if you are attempting abs or not...)
carrier/locker/posi --
180.00 spool, (add cost of c-clip elim 150.00), 300.00 locker, 500.00-800.00 posi unit (auburn, detroit, ox)
prep housing --
misc brackets - 100.00 - 300.00 (fab
brackets, cut and swap brackets
t.a. mount - 100.00 - ?? (not sure what cam charges, nor what fab shop would charge)
gear setup - 50.00 - 75.00? (rate may vary)
set housing to length - 100.00 to cut tubes maybe?
depending on which way you wanted to go with this project, it can get very expensive very quickly. take this info how you want it, these are just rough quotes so they would be way way off if you shopped around. just wanted to add some food for though out there for some to see...
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mine is getting built as we speak. narrowed 2.5 inches, 9in big bearing ends, spool, 31 spline axles, 4.10's, welded tubes... good friend of mine owed me a few favors, so he supplied the rear and the fabrication. all i have done is bought parts, my total is about 600.00 not including bearings. (actually i came out of pocket 200.00, i traded out for 400.00 of it.)
#77
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myself and a buddy. i ended up changing plans from the previous post in the beginning. ended up using factory 31 spline axles redrilled, 4.30 gears, and an E-Z locker (ratcheting type) from detroit. we have a bit of experience with these rears being we use them religiously in jeeps.
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In many ways, I agree. If you take the hours/days it would take you to fab it up, multiply that times what you make at your job, add it the cost of the parts/machine work then compare it to the prebuilt/guaranteed to bolt on unit, you might be surprised. In some cases it's a wash. In others, you'll come out cheaper to buy the bolt on unit.
At the time I did mine, a Moser or Strange with what I wanted was around $2,500 while ExtremeChassis (no longer in business I believe) was only $1,8xx delivered. Quite a split there, but keep in mind, I had to cut my stock GM 10 bolt legs off and ship thme to Craig, so that's part of the so-called savings too. I've been very happy with my setup though.
No matter whom you go with, try to get as many impressions from other buyers as you can and dont' forget to get the other guys side of the story. As you know, often times the truth is in the middle.
At the time I did mine, a Moser or Strange with what I wanted was around $2,500 while ExtremeChassis (no longer in business I believe) was only $1,8xx delivered. Quite a split there, but keep in mind, I had to cut my stock GM 10 bolt legs off and ship thme to Craig, so that's part of the so-called savings too. I've been very happy with my setup though.
No matter whom you go with, try to get as many impressions from other buyers as you can and dont' forget to get the other guys side of the story. As you know, often times the truth is in the middle.
please dont take this the wrong way, and i am not knocking on you in any way or form, but you may be better off to just contact a sponsor and buy a complete 12bolt, 9in... the 8.8 project is great for someone who is planning to fab all their own parts and such. if you are buying/paying someone to fab, your total for a rear project may exceed what you would spend for a pre-fabbed bolt in setup. total in my 8.8 i have less than 450.00 in the project, but then again i made all my own brackets, my own torque arm mount, and redrilled the factory axles from the 8.8... keep in mind, i have access to a full machine shop any time i need it, so i really didnt have to buy anything other than a ring/pinion, bearings, and a locker.
i will do a breakdown if you are paying someone to do this job... seems these questions are popping up more and more every week.
housing (varies) --
roughly anywhere from 100.00 - 400.00 (depends on the shape and internal components)
ring and pinion --
175.00 - 250.00 (if you arent lucky enough to find the right gearset in the rear you get
)
cover --
120.00 - 175.00 (MAC, trickflow... whatever you want)
axles --
250.00 - 300.00 (depends which manufacturer, if you are attempting abs or not...)
carrier/locker/posi --
180.00 spool, (add cost of c-clip elim 150.00), 300.00 locker, 500.00-800.00 posi unit (auburn, detroit, ox)
prep housing --
misc brackets - 100.00 - 300.00 (fab
brackets, cut and swap brackets
t.a. mount - 100.00 - ?? (not sure what cam charges, nor what fab shop would charge)
gear setup - 50.00 - 75.00? (rate may vary)
set housing to length - 100.00 to cut tubes maybe?
depending on which way you wanted to go with this project, it can get very expensive very quickly. take this info how you want it, these are just rough quotes so they would be way way off if you shopped around. just wanted to add some food for though out there for some to see...
i will do a breakdown if you are paying someone to do this job... seems these questions are popping up more and more every week.
housing (varies) --
roughly anywhere from 100.00 - 400.00 (depends on the shape and internal components)
ring and pinion --
175.00 - 250.00 (if you arent lucky enough to find the right gearset in the rear you get
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
cover --
120.00 - 175.00 (MAC, trickflow... whatever you want)
axles --
250.00 - 300.00 (depends which manufacturer, if you are attempting abs or not...)
carrier/locker/posi --
180.00 spool, (add cost of c-clip elim 150.00), 300.00 locker, 500.00-800.00 posi unit (auburn, detroit, ox)
prep housing --
misc brackets - 100.00 - 300.00 (fab
brackets, cut and swap brackets
t.a. mount - 100.00 - ?? (not sure what cam charges, nor what fab shop would charge)
gear setup - 50.00 - 75.00? (rate may vary)
set housing to length - 100.00 to cut tubes maybe?
depending on which way you wanted to go with this project, it can get very expensive very quickly. take this info how you want it, these are just rough quotes so they would be way way off if you shopped around. just wanted to add some food for though out there for some to see...
#79
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i will do a breakdown if you are paying someone to do this job... seems these questions are popping up more and more every week.
housing (varies) --
roughly anywhere from 100.00 - 400.00 (depends on the shape and internal components)
ring and pinion --
175.00 - 250.00 (if you arent lucky enough to find the right gearset in the rear you get
)
cover --
120.00 - 175.00 (MAC, trickflow... whatever you want)
axles --
250.00 - 300.00 (depends which manufacturer, if you are attempting abs or not...)
carrier/locker/posi --
180.00 spool, (add cost of c-clip elim 150.00), 300.00 locker, 500.00-800.00 posi unit (auburn, detroit, ox)
prep housing --
misc brackets - 100.00 - 300.00 (fab
brackets, cut and swap brackets
t.a. mount - 100.00 - ?? (not sure what cam charges, nor what fab shop would charge)
gear setup - 50.00 - 75.00? (rate may vary)
set housing to length - 100.00 to cut tubes maybe?
depending on which way you wanted to go with this project, it can get very expensive very quickly. take this info how you want it, these are just rough quotes so they would be way way off if you shopped around. just wanted to add some food for though out there for some to see...
housing (varies) --
roughly anywhere from 100.00 - 400.00 (depends on the shape and internal components)
ring and pinion --
175.00 - 250.00 (if you arent lucky enough to find the right gearset in the rear you get
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
cover --
120.00 - 175.00 (MAC, trickflow... whatever you want)
axles --
250.00 - 300.00 (depends which manufacturer, if you are attempting abs or not...)
carrier/locker/posi --
180.00 spool, (add cost of c-clip elim 150.00), 300.00 locker, 500.00-800.00 posi unit (auburn, detroit, ox)
prep housing --
misc brackets - 100.00 - 300.00 (fab
brackets, cut and swap brackets
t.a. mount - 100.00 - ?? (not sure what cam charges, nor what fab shop would charge)
gear setup - 50.00 - 75.00? (rate may vary)
set housing to length - 100.00 to cut tubes maybe?
depending on which way you wanted to go with this project, it can get very expensive very quickly. take this info how you want it, these are just rough quotes so they would be way way off if you shopped around. just wanted to add some food for though out there for some to see...
Most ford explorer rear ends come with I belive 3.73 or 4.11 gears.
I can go to a junk yard and pull a complete rear from a car for roughly $300 or so.
My question is what would I need to make it fit/work on an f-body. I will worry about building it up some other time.
#80
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Why would I need to get new cover, gears, axels ect. ect. when they come with the rear end already.
Most ford explorer rear ends come with I belive 3.73 or 4.11 gears.
I can go to a junk yard and pull a complete rear from a car for roughly $300 or so.
My question is what would I need to make it fit/work on an f-body. I will worry about building it up some other time.
Most ford explorer rear ends come with I belive 3.73 or 4.11 gears.
I can go to a junk yard and pull a complete rear from a car for roughly $300 or so.
My question is what would I need to make it fit/work on an f-body. I will worry about building it up some other time.