10 Bolt And Nittos?
10 Bolt And Nittos? My car is in need of new tires in the rear. My cars mods are in my sig but long story short its a M6 car with 400rwhp and a stock 10-bolt other then a 3.73 gear swap. My current tires spin very bad in 1st and 2nd gear Im looking at Nitto 555rs to cut down on the spinning but Im worried Ill snap the 10-bolt. My car is lightly driven most of the time its never been launched from a dig yet but will prob see a few trips to the dragstrip this year. What Im asking is will I break the 10-bolt if I install Nittos or is there any way to prevent breaking it with a little bit of a sticky tire?
BTW Im using a stock LS6 clutch
BTW Im using a stock LS6 clutch
Last edited by mtuggle86; Apr 29, 2010 at 09:30 PM.
It all goes down to the driver. I think your clutch is going to give before your rear, I cut many 1.7x's when I was bolt-ons with mine. Now that I'm cammed with much more power I've only got a best of a 1.99 60' but so far its holding...
Like I said Im just looking for a tire to improve grip a bit so it doesn't spin like crazy in 1st and 2nd. I plan to go to the track this year for the first time just to have a little fun but Im not gonna be launching the **** out of it. Im just worried the in the process of going and playing around Ill cost myself a rear end. Because of the nittos. Should I be fine If I keep the launch's under say 2500rpms and try to slip the clutch out?
I have 315 nitto dr's on stock 10 bolt making 400hp. Hasn't broken yet! I launch it at 3k but kinda slip the clutch. Now my Pedal sticks to the floor. Rear Whines a lot now tho. It's only a matter of time before it goes. But I've been getting away with it. Just be easy with launches n
When you launch at a fun RPM the little 7.625 ring and pinion flex, teeth begin to chew each other after that.....its all down hill after that!
Why GM put thoses in our cars is to cut cost way down
damn bean counters
GM should have continued the 8.5 it was reliable!
Why GM put thoses in our cars is to cut cost way down
damn bean counters GM should have continued the 8.5 it was reliable! Trending Topics
Get a S60, 9" or 8.8 rear with that much rwhp/rwtq you'll break the 10 bolt sooner or later no matter how you try to drive. The cheapest setup would be to go to the junk yard and get an 8.8 from a mustang then take your 10 bolt out and measure everything then transfer all of the brackets from the 10 bolt to the 8.8. Get the posi, gears and 31 spline Moser axles (with GM bolt pattern) of you choice and volia you're bulletproof.
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Verdad Gallardo Get a S60, 9" or 8.8 rear with that much rwhp/rwtq you'll break the 10 bolt sooner or later no matter how you try to drive. The cheapest setup would be to go to the junk yard and get an 8.8 from a mustang then take your 10 bolt out and measure everything then transfer all of the brackets from the 10 bolt to the 8.8. Get the posi, gears and 31 spline Moser axles (with GM bolt pattern) of you choice and volia you're bulletproof.
Thats my plan but Im not gonna be doing that until next year so I was just wondering if Im careful I would be able to go to the track once or twice this year with the nittos.
I destroyed my 10 bolt with Nittos on the 1-2 shift one time, and from a dig another. If you want to get away with stickier tires and the shitass 10 bolt, don't launch it from a dig at all, and don't do a hard 1-2 shift. After fixing mine I followed those guidelines and it stayed together for a while but eventually let go again and I bought my Moser M9.
I destroyed my 10 bolt with Nittos on the 1-2 shift one time, and from a dig another. If you want to get away with stickier tires and the shitass 10 bolt, don't launch it from a dig at all, and don't do a hard 1-2 shift. After fixing mine I followed those guidelines and it stayed together for a while but eventually let go again and I bought my Moser M9.
Last edited by mtuggle86; May 1, 2010 at 01:56 AM.
The slower you are moving the more strain the rear is under. Digs and 1-2 shifts for example are harder on the rear than the 2-3 or 3-4. Your clutch being stock will help cushion the blows.
Yeah, you can get a cover, and it will help to stiffen the housing, but it's not gonna save a 10 bolt from a 6 speed car. Just save that money and be easier on the rear til you can afford the 9".
I'm on stock 3.42's with NT05's.. No idea how long this will last, but it DOES come down to the driver.. if you let a Stang owner behind the wheel, the rear won't last a month.
If/when you go to the track, just leave kinda easy, don't HAMMER IT on the 1-2 shift, and you'll be fine. I've been on my stock rear for 7 years since I bought the car.
If/when you go to the track, just leave kinda easy, don't HAMMER IT on the 1-2 shift, and you'll be fine. I've been on my stock rear for 7 years since I bought the car.
No, it wasn't a power shift at all. Just a quick speed shift.
The slower you are moving the more strain the rear is under. Digs and 1-2 shifts for example are harder on the rear than the 2-3 or 3-4. Your clutch being stock will help cushion the blows.
Yeah, you can get a cover, and it will help to stiffen the housing, but it's not gonna save a 10 bolt from a 6 speed car. Just save that money and be easier on the rear til you can afford the 9".
The slower you are moving the more strain the rear is under. Digs and 1-2 shifts for example are harder on the rear than the 2-3 or 3-4. Your clutch being stock will help cushion the blows.
Yeah, you can get a cover, and it will help to stiffen the housing, but it's not gonna save a 10 bolt from a 6 speed car. Just save that money and be easier on the rear til you can afford the 9".
At this time a 9-inch isn't within reach Im thinking that Ill try and get a new rear next year if everything goes well. But until then I need to make sure and keep from breaking the 10-bolt. So basicly my choices are get 555rs and dont visit the track and be careful on 1-2 shifts or just buy a street tire and spin like hell.
Are there any street tires that you guys suggest that could cut down on my spinning but still allow me to be safe taking the car to the track a few times maybe the Nitto nt05 street tires?
BTW my current tires are junk sumitoma htrs 315-35-17
Are there any street tires that you guys suggest that could cut down on my spinning but still allow me to be safe taking the car to the track a few times maybe the Nitto nt05 street tires?
BTW my current tires are junk sumitoma htrs 315-35-17
Last edited by mtuggle86; May 1, 2010 at 06:09 PM.
I have 343 rwhp and 355 tq I run 275 35 18 nexan n3000 and dont spin too bad. I am putting in a set of 410's when I have a free weekend! On stock rear it feels alright. I do have a 4 ch rear and always keep the asr on!
My car is currently on jack stands right now because of this combination. Ha Ha! However, I have an A4 and mine didn't break on the launch but rather the burnout. when I left off the tires grabbed to hard and broke a ring gear tooth. I hear you about the money for a rear end that is why I am rebuilding mine with 3.23 gear again and don't plan on going back to the track until I get a rear. If you get the tires just don't launch real hard and you will PROBABLY be fine. Mine rearend lasted many miles on the street. They won't keep you from spinning on the street but they will help. Personally, I will go back to street tires when these are done mainly cause the 315555r are not as wide as the 315555 street tire and I would rather have the look when on the street.
I cut many 1.6X (50+) 60fts with my stalled auto car with a 275 Nitto, and I believe my rear was finally on it's way out because of all the whining it started doing.
Tire doesn't matter.. if it hooks, it breaks. I'd say you will be safe with a nitto as long as you're not doing high rpm dumps. Stock 10 bolts REALLY arent that bad if you don't launch the **** out of them. There are plenty in the 10s with auto cars. That being said, I've watched a buddy break 2 with stock power doing a high rpm dump on Mickeys.
When you buy a rear, buy a 9 inch. I'm currently rebuilding my 12 bolt because of 3 1.4X passes. Without the internal pinion support they just flex too much, IMO
Tire doesn't matter.. if it hooks, it breaks. I'd say you will be safe with a nitto as long as you're not doing high rpm dumps. Stock 10 bolts REALLY arent that bad if you don't launch the **** out of them. There are plenty in the 10s with auto cars. That being said, I've watched a buddy break 2 with stock power doing a high rpm dump on Mickeys.
When you buy a rear, buy a 9 inch. I'm currently rebuilding my 12 bolt because of 3 1.4X passes. Without the internal pinion support they just flex too much, IMO
i have about the same setup as you except 4.10s and about 2 hours ago i was on the dragstrip with nitto 555r extreme drags 20 psi, burnout then launched at about 3k and hooked then snap needless to say my car is sitting at heartland park for the night. time for a new rear end. i made 6 passes before launching at 2k and it was fine