Removing and reinstalling reluctor rings
#1
Removing and reinstalling reluctor rings
Chasing axle replacement options along lines of price, time, etc.
One axle kit requires that the old reluctor rings be reused. In case that is what I go with has anyone got any advice on removing the old ones. I have them soaking with PB Blaster but those rings seem like they are probably fairly brittle. and a light effort showed no movement. The machine shop I normally use has never had to remove them. No way to get a puller on it. A number of steel wedges tapped in around the perimeter might work but I don't have any wedges.
I am thinking a little heat and a lot of luck might be the way to go. Has anyone done this and what was your method?
Also in my quest to save a buck is there any reason not to reuse the old wheel studs?
Thanks,
Randy
One axle kit requires that the old reluctor rings be reused. In case that is what I go with has anyone got any advice on removing the old ones. I have them soaking with PB Blaster but those rings seem like they are probably fairly brittle. and a light effort showed no movement. The machine shop I normally use has never had to remove them. No way to get a puller on it. A number of steel wedges tapped in around the perimeter might work but I don't have any wedges.
I am thinking a little heat and a lot of luck might be the way to go. Has anyone done this and what was your method?
Also in my quest to save a buck is there any reason not to reuse the old wheel studs?
Thanks,
Randy
#2
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I removed them with chisels(steel wedges),using larger chisels as I progressed.Eventually I ran out of chisels large enough,then started using round steel stock.
At first I thought they were gonna be brittle too,but they took a lot of abuse and came off intact.
They were DIFFICULT,way too much 'interference' press fit for thier application !
before re-assembly,I sanded/rotary stone the I.D. and axle O.D.to get a .001-.002" 'interference' press fit,they went on a lot easier than they came off.
At first I thought they were gonna be brittle too,but they took a lot of abuse and came off intact.
They were DIFFICULT,way too much 'interference' press fit for thier application !
before re-assembly,I sanded/rotary stone the I.D. and axle O.D.to get a .001-.002" 'interference' press fit,they went on a lot easier than they came off.
#3
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I just had the machine shop swap it over for me.
This guy used heat/cold to get it back on, post #6:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...g-removal.html
This guy used heat/cold to get it back on, post #6:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...g-removal.html
#4
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Easy. Take a propane torch, heat them up and pry them right off with a pry bar. To install, heat them up again to expand them, take a piece of brass or something semi-soft, and hammer them back on. Make sure you get them on the right way. This method worked for me anyway.
#7
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look at them, is a top and bottom , mark top before removing. you may need heat I never needed it, I pry off with pry bars one on each side , to reinstall I put axels in freezer over nite and drop the rings in hot water for a bit and they drop rite on .
Johnny
Johnny
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#10
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we have had descent luck prying them off even without heat with a large prybar, but it can be a bit difficult this way. a little bit of heat would make them come off easier, but it is possible without. biggest thing to do is be sure not to damage any of the teeth or pry in one spot too much and egg shape the ring.