Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

This is the mount I made, its a complete bolt-on unit as I didn't want to do any welding on the cast iron housing. Only made 3 passes with it so far but it held up to a 1.55 60' in a 3700lb car. I ran into a few issues with it, the bracket is outboard more toward the driver side because I used the 31 spline truck flange which is much larger OD than than car one. In order to make this work I had to use the second set of torque arm bracket holes and ended up grinding off one of the other holes to clear the housing. I think this winter I'm going to switch to a regular style yoke and get rid of the flange all together because the clearance between it and the t/a mount it very close now. The only other issue I ran into was getting the rear sway bar to fit, its on there fine but its very close and could hit it if vibrates any. The easy solution here is to just make some spacers fr it and move it down 1/2" or so but I won't worry about that because I'm going to buy a drag bar this winter and figure it out then. Let me know what you think.

89 formula350

iTrader: (8)

I like it.. it looks very similar to a ones Ive seen on thirdgen.org its prob one of the better ways to go

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

What keeps it from rotating on the axle tube?

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

its sandwiched on the webbing coming off the housing, we initially were going to weld to the housing so we machined some of it off but there was still enough to use. Bolt bolt holes for the t/a mount go through that webbing. I could also weld the part hat clamps on the axle tube to the tube itself if need be its all open for improvement.

krissoto

iTrader: (3)

Really good engineering. I have ? about the bolt on part. Besides it puking the driveshaft, what could potentially happen if it slipped/stripped, and the rear end tried to rotate? Hope it never does but just wondering if maybe you could put in some xtra insurance.

joe77

Could you possibly get a top view of it? perhaps without the red piece? or any other views you think might be helpful

Latch

iTrader: (8)

I'm not a fabricator by any stretch of the imagination, but I'm somewhat skeptical. I could be wrong but it seems like that bracket would not hold up to the stress put on it by daily driving and drag strip launches.

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Only one way to find out, I never claimed this was a bulletproof design but trust me I wouldn't be driving it if i didn't feel comfortable with it. I'll try to get you guys some more pics but it's gonna be tough with the rear in the car. I may take it out this winter to make up some additional axle bracing some of the really high hp 8.8 guys are using.

Latch

iTrader: (8)

Honestly, maybe I'm just not enough of an engineer to figure it out but I can't figure out how it won't rotate on the axle tube based on the pictures and your explanation. But if it didn't rotate on a 1.55 60' then it should be good!

I wish you the absolute best of luck with this setup despite my skepticism, I love seeing these innovative new ways to put a good rear under our cars without breaking the bank. IMO it's funny that with the huge aftermarket for our cars, there has yet to be a mass-produced "budget" rear for us after all these years. These fabricated 8.8s might be the closest thing if a company were to put it into production.

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

I wonder why no one copies the mustang torque arm conversion. Like copy the torque arm and make a TA mount up front for it.
The instructions for this kit says it uses two 3/8" bolts to hold it to the rear pumpkin, thats all thats keeping the rear from rotating, the ends of it are just clamped on.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/co...TASS-2H_LG.jpg

89 formula350

iTrader: (8)

IDK how that one even adjusts? much less the next to no ground clearance.. the whole arm looks like it would hang lower then the rear swaybar. and if what you mean is how it ataches and make a side mount like the one above uses well he kinda did and alot of the ones on TGO do use both front bolts and clamp on the one side..

there is a nice one where he took cut plates the shape around the pininon area and slid each one up so even worst case the bolts broke the shape of these plates going around the pinion area of the rear would stop it from moving. plus he could weld them on like that

89 formula350

iTrader: (8)

just behind the yoke there is two mounting holes he used I think only one alot use both

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

There is a large piece of webbing that is part of the cast housing, this extends outward from the pinion area to the axle tubes. I drilled two holes in that and the torque arm bracket bolts go through that piece. So my bracket has a piece that fits above the webbing and below it, the bolts go through all of this sandwiching the entire bracket over the webbing. Essentially the cast iron would have to break off the housing in order for the bracket to be able to rotate on the tube. I searched for more pictures but I don't think I save any of them sorry guys.

Latch

iTrader: (8)

Ah I see! That sounds like it would be pretty sturdy.

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

The pinion angle adjust by adding thin washers between the bracket and rear.

My point though was that this conversion has been "tested to destruction" by the manufacturer. Yet it only uses 2 grade eight 3/8" bolts to keep the housing from rotating.

89 formula350

iTrader: (8)

yes, I would agree I dont see an issue with the bolts being used.. I think it will be fine

t/a98

iTrader: (6)

Where did you buy this? Or did you fab it all yourself? I'm really interested, if you are making these, how much?

Detroitmuscle

iTrader: (16)

I made this myself, I'd have to look into possibly making them to sell but I really want to test it out more and make sure it's a solid piece. I'm sure there is room for improvement in the design and I wouldn't want to sell something that's garbage or prone to breaking easily.

t/a98

iTrader: (6)

I understand, but if you start, make sure we know!

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

This looks great, given that my car is mostly street/autox with just a few (2-3) 1/8mi days per year, this looks stout enough for my use, hope it works out!


Another design I had always thought would work for this, and for the 8.5" 10-bolt, would be mounting to the diff cover, as used in the GNX torque arm design:
http://home.comcast.net/~buickgnx/GNX/susp.htm