Correctting an uncentered/skewed axle? -New info-
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Went to the alignment shop and my axle is skewed to the right. According to the print-out the left side is .55 degree's off and right is -0.2.
The tires are not showing any abnormal wear after a year and 10k miles so it can't be that bad. But the alignment is pulling to the left.
The shop guys said that i could probably correct the problem with adjustable control arms. Is this the best solution?
Rear alignment:
The tires are not showing any abnormal wear after a year and 10k miles so it can't be that bad. But the alignment is pulling to the left.
The shop guys said that i could probably correct the problem with adjustable control arms. Is this the best solution?
Rear alignment:
![](http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7420/rearf.th.jpg)
Last edited by elwood2; 02-20-2011 at 12:48 AM.
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we need to know the ## of all the setting, camber,caster,toe and rear thrust line and are
any/all the settings maxed out ?, you may be able to shave a little from one side and add a little to the other.
look at my link to better understang alignments
Johnny
any/all the settings maxed out ?, you may be able to shave a little from one side and add a little to the other.
look at my link to better understang alignments
Johnny
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And i take back what i said about the tires not having abnormal wear. The rear tires are wearing on the inside.
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I'd have the chassis checked to make sure it's straight, it appears that it isn't. Maybe it's just the thrust angle, but you'd want to know that's the ONLY thing wrong. I'm guessing what Johnny is talking about is elongating the mounting holes on either side of the LCA's mounting brackets (axle or frame) to give some adjustment for thrust angle, with out going to an adjustable arm, which may not give you the ride quality you want.
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I'd have the chassis checked to make sure it's straight, it appears that it isn't. Maybe it's just the thrust angle, but you'd want to know that's the ONLY thing wrong. I'm guessing what Johnny is talking about is elongating the mounting holes on either side of the LCA's mounting brackets (axle or frame) to give some adjustment for thrust angle, with out going to an adjustable arm, which may not give you the ride quality you want.
I doubt i want to go with adjustable control arms, this is going to be my daily driver so i don't want it riding any more rough than it does now, haha.
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ELWOOD2:
I am repling to your post rather than to your PM so that Leadfoot and all the other experts my add to and correct any statements which I may post "we " all wish to help with your problem, please any one with differant info jump in.
sorry for the long and rambling post as I do not spell nor use good english in my typing
after reveiwing the specs on your align FRONT AND REAR
the following is my thoughts
front camber is ok , you are a little neg. GM and I like a little postive, but you be ok
caster is equal, should not cause any pull,( I like a little lead of pos on the right ) I beleave the off set of your steering wheel (or the offset of the rear ) is causing your pull if you are on a good level road, if your roads have a high crown for water run off the car will drift to right
front toe is little too much postive may cause wear on out side of tire , more on outside of right by 2-3 x more than wear on left
strreing wheel is off center,to go stright you should have to tilt the steering wheel to the right, if you hold the wheel level the car will drift ( pull) left into oncomming
rear camber is good, rear toe is postive too much ,will cause wear on out side of tires,rear housing is bent and not center with body which will cause the rear thrust line to be off which will cause the rear of car to push around if hard loungh, if you have adjustable rear lower control arms you may adjust the rear thrust line stright( of a least help it )but I think you will still get wear on out side of rear tires, I do not think changing front OR rear control arms will cause harsh ride
if I can help call me at # post in your PM
Johnny
again any and all corrections are welcone
I am repling to your post rather than to your PM so that Leadfoot and all the other experts my add to and correct any statements which I may post "we " all wish to help with your problem, please any one with differant info jump in.
sorry for the long and rambling post as I do not spell nor use good english in my typing
after reveiwing the specs on your align FRONT AND REAR
the following is my thoughts
front camber is ok , you are a little neg. GM and I like a little postive, but you be ok
caster is equal, should not cause any pull,( I like a little lead of pos on the right ) I beleave the off set of your steering wheel (or the offset of the rear ) is causing your pull if you are on a good level road, if your roads have a high crown for water run off the car will drift to right
front toe is little too much postive may cause wear on out side of tire , more on outside of right by 2-3 x more than wear on left
strreing wheel is off center,to go stright you should have to tilt the steering wheel to the right, if you hold the wheel level the car will drift ( pull) left into oncomming
rear camber is good, rear toe is postive too much ,will cause wear on out side of tires,rear housing is bent and not center with body which will cause the rear thrust line to be off which will cause the rear of car to push around if hard loungh, if you have adjustable rear lower control arms you may adjust the rear thrust line stright( of a least help it )but I think you will still get wear on out side of rear tires, I do not think changing front OR rear control arms will cause harsh ride
if I can help call me at # post in your PM
Johnny
again any and all corrections are welcone
Last edited by SS SLP2; 12-31-2010 at 12:42 PM.
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Went to the alignment shop and my axle is skewed to the right. According to the print-out the left side is .55 degree's off and right is -0.2.
The tires are not showing any abnormal wear after a year and 10k miles so it can't be that bad. But the alignment is pulling to the left.
The shop guys said that i could probably correct the problem with adjustable control arms. Is this the best solution?
The tires are not showing any abnormal wear after a year and 10k miles so it can't be that bad. But the alignment is pulling to the left.
The shop guys said that i could probably correct the problem with adjustable control arms. Is this the best solution?
Not saying there aren't other problems but this needs adressed before throwing any more money at it.
Also SS SLP2 is giving You some solid sound advice, I suggest You read his post thoroughly!
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If Your alignment shop showed You a read out with a positive .55 on one side of a solid axle housing and a negative of 0.2 on the other Your housing is in need of straightening and a thorough inspection to determine if the axle shafts are bent, bearings worn and splines on axles and differential. Probably cheaper to replace with used than fix.
Not saying there aren't other problems but this needs adressed before throwing any more money at it.
Also SS SLP2 is giving You some solid sound advice, I suggest You read his post thoroughly!
Not saying there aren't other problems but this needs adressed before throwing any more money at it.
Also SS SLP2 is giving You some solid sound advice, I suggest You read his post thoroughly!
Does anyone sell oem rebuilds? If I look for a replacement in a junkyard what do i look for, model number or whatever?
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I'm not positive but I believe the 1998 through the 2002 used the same width and suspension, You will need to identify whether You have abs and sensors for it on Your car and the donor car.
The possible gear ratios could be different on the donor but not as big as an issue as the correct sensors, providing the numbers of the gears are numerically larger which will help the cars performance.
You might check the for sale ads here too.
The possible gear ratios could be different on the donor but not as big as an issue as the correct sensors, providing the numbers of the gears are numerically larger which will help the cars performance.
You might check the for sale ads here too.
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I noticed the other day that the rear has two different size tires. A kuhmo 275/40-17 on passenger and a Yokohama 255/40-17. I'll hopefully be getting at least two new tires for the rear soon.
Would this be effecting the rear alignment at all if any?
Would this be effecting the rear alignment at all if any?
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yes it will.......any reputable shop would have noticed this...one tire is taller than the other and will cause the axle to read negative on one side and positive on the other....or in your case the readings you have...think of it like a cone.....one side is larger than the other and if you lay it flat and roll it it will turn around to the smaller side......so with your tires being different sizes,your rear end is going one way and causing the steering wheel to be off center....hope this helps
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Now that I know that the axle thrust angle is probably caused by the different size tires what is everyones recommendation? Should I get two new tires put on then check alignment again? I'm thinking two new tires and a new axle for the drivers side and bearings. Or do you guys think the housing is bent along with the axle?
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the differant size of REAR tires may/will cause car to push a little to the left, do not think it would be enough to make a problem( but will damange the rear end IF you have a postive track because of the differant circumference of the size of rear tires) if you have the small size on driver side if you add the correct size you would in theory add a very little more postive camber to right side and a very little less caster to left, ( relate to this by balance a pin on top of your fihger it you raise one end of the pin you would lower the other end, thus if you add correct size tire to left rear you rase the left rear and lower the right of car which would add a little camber, and by rase left rear of car you would take away a little caster on left front)I do not think it would change toe enough to see any differance( I DO NOT think any of this would make much /if any differance) I think if the axle was bent enough to make much diff in the align setting it would be wabbling going down the road, jack up the rear let car idle in gear and see if it wobble, I do think rear houshing is bent, AS stated earler you may correct the rear thrust angle with rear adjustable lower control arms BUT THAT would no change the totel toe or cambet on rear correct size rear tire would change a lttle camber on rear also
Now as to the diff size change rear thrush angle, NO stop and think , when the tech connected the align equ to rear tire/wheel he/she DID NOT connect to the out side circum of the diff size tire but connected to the wheel/rim which shpuld read from the supposed center of axle/wheel
Please anyone add/ dispute any/all ???
sorry about the rambling I am not great on commuating or spelling
Johnny
Now as to the diff size change rear thrush angle, NO stop and think , when the tech connected the align equ to rear tire/wheel he/she DID NOT connect to the out side circum of the diff size tire but connected to the wheel/rim which shpuld read from the supposed center of axle/wheel
Please anyone add/ dispute any/all ???
sorry about the rambling I am not great on commuating or spelling
Johnny
Last edited by SS SLP2; 01-25-2011 at 10:21 PM.
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Johnny, there is noticeable wobble on a smooth road. The axle on the left side is definitely bent I believe. What are the chances that the housing is also bent?
Do you guys think if I replaced the drivers side axle and put adjustable LCA's that would fix the problem?
Or should I just keep looking for a used rear and put in adjustable LCA's with it?
Do you guys think if I replaced the drivers side axle and put adjustable LCA's that would fix the problem?
Or should I just keep looking for a used rear and put in adjustable LCA's with it?
Last edited by elwood2; 01-25-2011 at 10:36 PM.