silversrtman

iTrader: (20)

Anyone have this combo? I was wondering how much of the bracket needs to be trimmed off? Any clearance issues? I did some searching but theres not much on here. Thanks.

Oh also pictures would be a huge help. Thanks!

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

I'm doing one right now. Using a 2203. So far I've had to cut about 1/2 inch out of the vertical tube that holds the drive shaft loop to make it clear the drive shaft when you jack up the car. UMI welded the loop to the 3/4" tubing at the center of the tube and the tube sticks up about 1/4" above the bottom of the loop. It hit there and hit the arm right at the right angle bend. The top bolt at the front of the torque arm hit the drive shaft. Had to turn it around, nut against the trans tunnel and remove about 1/2 the bolt head. Then I had to grind off about 1/8 inch of the bolt as it hit the tunnel. Besides all that, the adjustment at the top rear of the torque arm needs to be made before you install the arm or you will need to remove a lot of stuff to get it out so you can turn it, Carl at Central told me to install the torque arm before installing the axle, that was good advice. In my car I had to screw the upper adjustment all the way in to get the front where it belonged. It also looks like I may have some clearance problems at the top rear of the mount that bolts to the S-60. Need to readjust the panhard rod to be sure. Right now it looks like I may have to bend the floor a bit to get some room.

BTW: My car had a 2203 and a 12 bolt in it. Dropped right in. This is a different 2203, a 2203 CM and it's tight with the S-60. Almost forgot I also had to raise the rear of the TH400. Originally I did it to try to get the drive shaft away from the loop, then I found out the drive shaft alignment was better with the rear raised a bit.

I have pictures but I can't get them out of the camera. Lent my girlfriend the camera and she lost the damned cable.

I'm not the least bit upset with UMI as the car is a Frankenstein and the UMI stuff dropped right in before with the 12 bolt. The S-60 is big and the torque arm mount is forward making things tough. One other bad decision I made was the drive shaft. Measured it up and took it to be shortened and a new end for the larger U-Joint. Didn't notice the problem with the drive shaft loop as the car was down for measuring. It hits when you raise the back end. Well that may have bit me in the *** as the shaft might be short now that I moved everything around. I'll find out later if I'm good with what I have or need to start over The drive shaft I have is 3" adding to the clearance problems. Forgot about that. It cost $153 to shorten the shaft, replace the yoke and get a HD Spicer joint, and balance it. Tax and all. Put the drive shaft in the loop and into the transmission before you bolt up the mount or you will have to remove the shocks and drop the rear way down to get the shaft back far enough to get it through the loop. And the U-Joint at the S-60 was hard to get in. Both cups have to go in absolutely straight and at the same time. I used a big channel lock to get mine in, took me about 1/2 an hour...

When my S-60 came Tuesday and I opened the box I found it had broke loose from the pallet and somehow didn't wreck anything. The S-60 fit perfectly to the Camaro stuff, all I had to do was stretch the brake lines and buy new lug nuts as the S-60 has 1/2" 20 studs. I'm very happy with it.

One other thing, have not put the sway bar on yet, and may not. So I have no advice about it

Al in Tucson

95 Z28 almost able to move again.....

silversrtman

iTrader: (20)

Wow al thanks for the input ...hmm I wonder how it's going to be with the t56...I hope its not a bloodbath also I have a trans mounted torque arm and I wonder how that will be...anyone else have input? Thanks

z28_theantirice

iTrader: (2)

I did an S60 with my trans mounted UMI torque arm last fall. Had to trip bracket about 1/2, it took a decent amount of man handling to get that beast under the car and all bolted up.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Used a cheap scissors type transmission jack under the center of the pumpkin. Was a cake walk....

Something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html

Al

silversrtman

iTrader: (20)

sweet thank you sir!

Yeah im just going to use a big jack i have and either strap the rear so it doesnt fall or have someone try to steady it...maybe bolt the lcas onto it first so its stabilized.

SWeiser31

iTrader: (9)

Just put an S60 in last weekend. I've got a UMI tunnel mounted torque arm and I didn't have to trim anything. It slid right on. I guess the previous owner could have cut it for the 12 bolt, but it sure doesn't look like it.

silversrtman

iTrader: (20)

ooo thats good news. Do you have any pics?

SWeiser31

iTrader: (9)

Unfortunately I don't. This is the torque arm I have though:
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...2s15frt657auo0
If you look at the picture, you can see part of the mounting bracket is notched right from UMI.

silversrtman

iTrader: (20)

ooo well thats good, I have a transmission mounted torque arm and mine also has that same notch on the mounting bracket! Yay

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Notched for what? On mine, same kit, you can't use the other mounting holes, the top plate hits the canter section.

Al

BrianSF-GA

My S60 and what I plan to use to install it ... my motorcycle jack.



I am still trying to decide which torque arm to use. I like the UMI's, but Strange Engineering has trim instructions for the BMR and Spohn torque arms only (I suspect it would be the same instructions for the UMI). I also noticed that Spohn actually has a different mount especially for use with the S60 ... I think NO trimming necessary. I like that idea and I will have to confirm with them if thats true. I am also unclear if the "stock exhaust" Spohn chassis mount will clear Kook LT's/ORY like the UMI and BMR "stock exhaust" chassis mount torque arms.