Help please...ws6 DRIVESHAFT 9' swap
#1
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Can anyone tell me what to do. I have a 2000 ws6 just swaped the rear with a moser 9'. It is a 6 speed car. I have the stock driveshaft still in the transmission. It does not fit in the yoke and seems just a bit too short but yet still useable with a different u joint ? What are my options? Is there different u joints at Advance I can have Pressed in or should i or a different custom driveshaft? Please help It will be Greatly appreciated..
Last edited by MJR7AD; 05-30-2011 at 10:19 AM. Reason: WRONG
#8
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The stock drive shaft will work, but it will be 1/2" short so you may get vibrations. On top of that, if you are making enough power for a 9" you better upgrade to a driveshaft that will handle the power, my factory drive shaft broke way before my rear end did.
I was doing about 90mph on a highway pull and BOOOM! it twisted in half, right in the center of the drive shaft, I didn't have a safety loop but it wouldn't have made much of a difference on account of the drive shaft twisting in half right in the middle. That broken drive shaft cost alot of money. It destroyed my adjustable torque arm, y-pipe, and cracked my transmission tail housing, and put some nice holes in my floor board. So well over $1100 to repair by the time i bought a upgraded drive shaft and replaced all the broken parts my stock drive shaft took out. Oh and the $300 tow bill.
It could have been alot worse for me, it could have came through the floor board and took me out, or caught the pavement just right and flipped the car.
What im getting at is if your upgrading to a 9" than its a no brainer to upgrade the drive shaft. **** im on my 3rd drive shaft now, My stocker, then a stock length chromoly sphon, and now a PST 3" thats the correct length for my MWC 9".
Being cheap now may cost you alot later, maybe even hurt yourself or someone else, broken drive shafts are nothing to play around with, like i said my stock drive shaft broke before my stock rear end did.
I was doing about 90mph on a highway pull and BOOOM! it twisted in half, right in the center of the drive shaft, I didn't have a safety loop but it wouldn't have made much of a difference on account of the drive shaft twisting in half right in the middle. That broken drive shaft cost alot of money. It destroyed my adjustable torque arm, y-pipe, and cracked my transmission tail housing, and put some nice holes in my floor board. So well over $1100 to repair by the time i bought a upgraded drive shaft and replaced all the broken parts my stock drive shaft took out. Oh and the $300 tow bill.
It could have been alot worse for me, it could have came through the floor board and took me out, or caught the pavement just right and flipped the car.
What im getting at is if your upgrading to a 9" than its a no brainer to upgrade the drive shaft. **** im on my 3rd drive shaft now, My stocker, then a stock length chromoly sphon, and now a PST 3" thats the correct length for my MWC 9".
Being cheap now may cost you alot later, maybe even hurt yourself or someone else, broken drive shafts are nothing to play around with, like i said my stock drive shaft broke before my stock rear end did.
#10
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Thanks! You can use the stock driveshaft if you use a conversion u joint such as the Napa 447. However, the driveshaft will be about one inch too short, which can cause vibrations, I've had it happen to two customers. As has also been mentioned, the stock driveshaft is another one of the weak links in the drivetrain, and when it breaks it can turn into a pretzel under there, taking out the exhaust system and putting holes in the floorboards. Here is the driveshaft I recommend. http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-3-1-2...Driveshaft.htm Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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#12
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Good call... it's definitely not worth it. A conversion u-joint will get you by for a while if need be, but the rule goes if you have the need for a 9" rearend, then you have the equal need for the correct driveshaft. The possibility of the costs of the damage a failure will cost are not worth it... then at the end of the day after you repair/replace all those damaged parts... you still have to buy a good driveshaft.
Give us a call... we will be glad to hook you up on a sweet deal for the correct driveshaft. We proudly offer several choices of complete driveshafts fromn Strange Engineering and PST Driveline. Complete assembled and balanced, ready to install.
Give us a call... we will be glad to hook you up on a sweet deal for the correct driveshaft. We proudly offer several choices of complete driveshafts fromn Strange Engineering and PST Driveline. Complete assembled and balanced, ready to install.
#13
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M6 car will have a drive train vibration more so than a A4 will. I can not tell you why this is so between the two but every customer that has done this with a M6 has since came back and purchased a drive shaft. I do have a couple customers with an A4 still running a stock drive shaft with a conversion U-joint and have not mentioned any issue to date.
Like others have stressed, it is now the weak link and a broken drive shaft can turn into more damage than needed.
Like others have stressed, it is now the weak link and a broken drive shaft can turn into more damage than needed.
#14
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I have a new steel driveshaft with new yoke and new 1350 universal joint. Shaft is 1 inch longer than stock, made for a 9". It is 1/12" steel. Should be balanced before installing. Paid $300.00 for manufacture, make offer. have pics. Please pm me if interested.