Poly bushing for the Midwest Chassis torque arm
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
Poly bushing for the Midwest Chassis torque arm I am wanting to remove the ball rod end on the MWC and replace it with a poly bushing end in order to reduce rearend noise as much as possible. I get the minor transition clunks just between accell and decell especially if I am using cruise control. I am confident that eveything is tight and this is just normal noise considering the performance aftermarket parts but that single poly bushing on the bottom of the swivel is not doing the job as well as I would like.
The width of the MWC ball rod end is .75" and I cant find any type of bushing rod end in that size. The smallest width bushing rod end I see is 1.75" which would require some work to the tranny mount and the swivel link.
I want something like this but in .75" wide:
Anyone know of a .75" wide bushing rod end to replace the ball rod end?
MWC please chime in if you have something.
The width of the MWC ball rod end is .75" and I cant find any type of bushing rod end in that size. The smallest width bushing rod end I see is 1.75" which would require some work to the tranny mount and the swivel link.
I want something like this but in .75" wide:
Anyone know of a .75" wide bushing rod end to replace the ball rod end?
MWC please chime in if you have something.
Last edited by wrd1972; Jun 11, 2011 at 08:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
You might be on to something here. that really looks like it could dampen much more than the ball rod end.
http://www.sealsit.com/sealflex_rodend.asp
Last edited by wrd1972; Jun 11, 2011 at 09:53 AM.
i have a MWC torque arm as well but it is at my other house and i do not remember if there ware 3 rod ends on it (one in the front, two in the back?)? or does it have a poly mount in the front? anyways, i know spohn makes a poly rod end option for the front mount. where the two rod ends mount to the axle, i have never seen a poly rod end placed there. i am interested in getting one of these poly rod ends as well.
you can see the different ends that spohn offers in the pictures on this link:
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1998-2002-...ersY-Pipe.html
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1998-2002-...ersY-Pipe.html
now that i think about it, you may want to make sure it is only 3/4" in diameter. they may use the larger bushing like is seen on control arms or panhard bars...
here is something that may work:
http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/rods.html
here is something that may work:
http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/rods.html
Last edited by cals400ex; Jun 11, 2011 at 10:47 AM.
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The bolt hole size is 1/2 inch. Please be careful changing to other style heim joints, we use these styles for many different reasons. One is because of the quality and second is because of the strength.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
My car is 99% street car so it does not see the abuse that a strip car would and I dont mind giving up some strength (within reason) for less rearend noise through the TA. If I do change the rod-end out, I will closely monitor it.
Last edited by wrd1972; Jun 13, 2011 at 01:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
I got the Seals-It Sealflex Elastomer rod end but it wont just bolt up and go. The width is just a tad wider than the current ball rod end so the MWC swivel link will have to be slightly modified which wont be very difficult to do. However, I might not get to it for a week or two.
From looking at the new rod end, it looks like it should dampen a bit more than the ball rod end for street use but I would not expect it to work as good for racing but like I have said before, I dont race much.
I will post results once I have some.
From looking at the new rod end, it looks like it should dampen a bit more than the ball rod end for street use but I would not expect it to work as good for racing but like I have said before, I dont race much.
I will post results once I have some.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
Update:
I modified my MWC swivel link and got the elastomer rod end installed. It was rather easy to re-shape but I did have to machine a pair of small shims (~1/16" thick) for the sides of the rod-end to provide greater range of movement and avoid potential metal to metal contact in the swivel link. Also had to now use a 5/8" bolt with this rod-end.
After driving around, there is a significantly lesser amount of vibes, clunks and noises. All of the clunking I used to feel in the floorboard under the pedals is totally gone. Also shifting gears is smoother now too. This is definitely an improvement.
Hopefully the elastomer rod-end will last but even at $40 it is not breaking the bank to replace should it start to wear plus it takes less than 20 minutes to do. It is softer, mushier obviously than the solid rod-end so it may not perform as well on hard launches at the track like the solid one would. That said I only visit the track once every three years or so.
Regardless I am thus far, happy with the results.
I modified my MWC swivel link and got the elastomer rod end installed. It was rather easy to re-shape but I did have to machine a pair of small shims (~1/16" thick) for the sides of the rod-end to provide greater range of movement and avoid potential metal to metal contact in the swivel link. Also had to now use a 5/8" bolt with this rod-end.
After driving around, there is a significantly lesser amount of vibes, clunks and noises. All of the clunking I used to feel in the floorboard under the pedals is totally gone. Also shifting gears is smoother now too. This is definitely an improvement.
Hopefully the elastomer rod-end will last but even at $40 it is not breaking the bank to replace should it start to wear plus it takes less than 20 minutes to do. It is softer, mushier obviously than the solid rod-end so it may not perform as well on hard launches at the track like the solid one would. That said I only visit the track once every three years or so.
Regardless I am thus far, happy with the results.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
For those interested, a one month update. Clearly the MWC poly bushings alone can dampen noise and absorb clunks as much as I would like for street use. Obviously the bushings work great for controlling movement on the strip.
Still very happy with the results of the elastomer rod-end. The car is so much more pleasant to drive on the street. Much, much quieter and not near as clunky. Best $40 spent on the car in a very long time.
Still very happy with the results of the elastomer rod-end. The car is so much more pleasant to drive on the street. Much, much quieter and not near as clunky. Best $40 spent on the car in a very long time.
So you had to use a larger bolt to connect to the swivel? Thats a plus. Did you get any material specs from Sealsit? May be worth forwarding to MWC to see what they think. If it meets their strength requirements, it would be nice to offer this for a street set up.
I have talked to seals it, they have them on nascar nextel cup and sprint cars. The material used is the same stuff used for tire sidewalls.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,668
Likes: 5
From: Central Kentucky
MWC already stated in this thread that they dont recommend what I was planning to do and I understand why. Regarding strength requirements and absolutely no disrespect to MWC (small aftermarket company compared to the big boys) with this next statement, I doubt that have detailed strength specs that are based off of anything other than racing, trial and error and common sense. I dont think they would have performed testing and evaluation like a major auto manufacturer would such as extensive finite element analysis or induced failure testing. Maybe I am wrong and if they have gone to those lengths, that only further enhances their product.
The way I see it, the worst that can happen for mainly street use, is that the elastomer innards of the rod-end can fail resulting likely at worst, a lot of banging around on the 5/8" bolt. The rod-end would still be be captured and obviously need to be promptly replaced.
It also appears that the elastomer wont be subjected to lots of rotational forces and twisting like it would if it were used on a control arm or tierod just due to the reduced amount of movement that takes place at the front of the torque arm. This should help extend its life.
I agree that they could benefit from offering something like this for the applications used mainly on the street.