Alright guys, I'll start off by saying I will not be replacing the 10 bolt with a 9" or 12 bolt. For a daily driver, I can't justify the cost. I have already decided I am going to put a new differential, TA girdle with stud kit, soild pinion spacer, full install kit, and 3.90 gears. The car is daily driven and never raced.

My question is, what is the best replacement series 3 differential? I want the absolute strongest stock replacement I can get.

Once again, I will not be buying a 9" or 12 bolt so please don't try to convince me to.

 

Since it's not raced,what's wrong with keeping the current differential and just changing the gears with everything else you mentioned ?

 

Sorry, I can't believe I forgot to mention that my current differential is busted. It's popping really bad on deceleration. When lifted you can rotate one wheel and the other stays completely still and you can hear it pop.

 

If you're looking to slam gears with a crazy stiff clutch without a sprung hub and sticky tires, nothing you put in there will live.

If you drive nice and have a clutch with a sprung hub then my answer would be a Torsen style diff. Either the stock one or a Quaife or a truetrack. They make the car infinitely more drivable.

 

As of now I have no plans to add any stickier tires or too stiff of a clutch. I really just see it being a DD especially for the next few years. I checked out some of the stuff on Stranos website and he has an Auburn Racers Unit which seems to be pretty stout. Its about $100 more than the other options. But basically, you think as long as I'm easy on it even a oe replacement will work?

 

an OE replacement for your year would be the Torsen(used/supplied 1999-2002).1998s' and earlier got Auburns.

 

I have heard mixed reviews about torsens products lately, would you recommend auburn or Torsen?

 

I've been doing rearends since the late 60s' and all I use are Auburns and Eaton(spring loaded clutch type). Not saying there's anything wrong with Torsens,other types of Eatons,or other differentials on the market,my uses/applications have been fine with the two I use. The torsens that I have are strictly for others that are in need of one as I don't care for the way Torsens act or break,not saying that Auburns and Eatons don't break.

 

I have some parts here that might help you out. Bob


Auburn Differentials
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-542...ser-542040.htm
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-542...ser-542041.htm

Moser 10 Bolt Axles
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-A10...er-A102805.htm
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-A10...er-A102806.htm

Performance Girdle
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-710...Moser-7105.htm

10 Bolt Install Kits
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-R10...er-R10B75L.htm
http://shop.brutespeed.com/BEP-Compl...-BEP-30105.htm

Bearings
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-956...Moser-9563.htm

Gears
http://shop.brutespeed.com/10-Bolt-G...cers_c1074.htm

 

Thanks Bob! What gears would you recommend?

 

You're welcome. I'd go with the 4.10 gears. Thanks. Bob

 

That sounds good. I should be ordering after the holidays then.

 

I've been using the factory 10-bolt, SLP HD Torsen, Motive 3.73 gears, Bearing Cap Studs, T/A Rear Girdle, on my T/A with the HP/TQ numbers as in my sig for years now with no problems...

Tranny is 4L60E with 3400 Stall 2.5STR verter, built/dynoed to 800hp.

I do have a problem with traction even though I'm using 315 tires and Spohn TA, Tubular LCA's so that's probably saving the rear end somewhat...