Car Complete, now debating gear swap...
12-21-2011, 08:11 PM
#1
Car Complete, now debating gear swap... Well long story short, I've got my car exactly how I pictured it when I first bought it 4 years ago.
Full Koni/Strano/UMI chassis and suspension. TR230 Cam, full bolt ons, Long tubes and true duals. LS7 clutch with tick. perf. master and slave. Brembo CTS-V brake upgrade. etc etc.
I wanted a perfect weekend warrior that was mostly street driven, no loss of daily drivability, but obviously faster and way better handling than stock. To me, I achieved this balance as it's so much better than stock, and fast, but I can daily drive it with full reliability if I needed or wanted to (as if I went any further with this car, it would be the point of no return and would have to upgrade more parts and get real serious.)
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But I have stock gears. 3.42s in my M6 car. With this midrange/torquey reverse split cam, it works well in 1st/2nd gear, but on highway pulls I feel it can be better.
I'm not saying I feel the car is slow. I know it's performing in tip top shape and everything feels good, but I'm not sure if swapping to 4.10s would be a good benefit or not. I know from a dig I would accelerate better, but from highway pulls starting at 30-40mph, would 4.10s hurt overall acceleration?
I'm thinking about this as well as I need to replace my slip yolk on the rear end, and if 4.10s woke up the car more than it already is, that would be great too. Plus I feel that the 18 in wheels and 285s in the back slowed the car a bit.
But I just don't want to loose any daily drivability and ruin even more gas mileage that I get on the highway...
It never ends, does it?
Any opinions?
Full Koni/Strano/UMI chassis and suspension. TR230 Cam, full bolt ons, Long tubes and true duals. LS7 clutch with tick. perf. master and slave. Brembo CTS-V brake upgrade. etc etc.
I wanted a perfect weekend warrior that was mostly street driven, no loss of daily drivability, but obviously faster and way better handling than stock. To me, I achieved this balance as it's so much better than stock, and fast, but I can daily drive it with full reliability if I needed or wanted to (as if I went any further with this car, it would be the point of no return and would have to upgrade more parts and get real serious.)
------
But I have stock gears. 3.42s in my M6 car. With this midrange/torquey reverse split cam, it works well in 1st/2nd gear, but on highway pulls I feel it can be better.
I'm not saying I feel the car is slow. I know it's performing in tip top shape and everything feels good, but I'm not sure if swapping to 4.10s would be a good benefit or not. I know from a dig I would accelerate better, but from highway pulls starting at 30-40mph, would 4.10s hurt overall acceleration?
I'm thinking about this as well as I need to replace my slip yolk on the rear end, and if 4.10s woke up the car more than it already is, that would be great too. Plus I feel that the 18 in wheels and 285s in the back slowed the car a bit.
But I just don't want to loose any daily drivability and ruin even more gas mileage that I get on the highway...
It never ends, does it?
Any opinions?
12-23-2011, 01:41 PM
#4
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i got basically the same stuff, except for the suspension mods.. i have the option of 3.90s or 4.10s right now... i do mostly highway pulls, so how different will it be? i usually race well over 200kmh, just wanna make sure shell pull as hard with 4.10s up high as with the 3.42s
12-24-2011, 07:47 PM
#6
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Alright guys.
built 10bolt, as in hardened axles and gears- good for mild launches, but def affordable and streetable.
next step is a 12 bolt, usually from a 2500 truck scrap and build but can only go up to a 32 axle spline, but good for pretty hefty builds and the weekend street racing
after that is a 9" fab. now. moser has a 9".. if you read reviews on here about them most ppl hate them. they broke 3 times and stoped sending out replacements. our solution, MidWest Chassis build a 9". that thing has been a ***** for 3 different cars now and no problems, was a 10.4 car and no problems. best part is that it weighed 4lbs LIGHTER than the stock 10bolt. detroit is reliable in my opinion, and locker are good internals.
as for GEARS. if you plan on highway then def Not the 4.10s, alot of the street racers complain about being topped out at 150 or so. they eventually go 3.73's. the DREAM gear for M6 and Street/Strip.
if you had an automatic then it wouldnt be so hard on the rearends either, thus a 500hp A4 could handle a 12bolt better then an M6 due to the shock of slamming gears. overall best buy for a mild heads/cam build car would be a build detroit locker 12 bolt. but if you launch on spray and a full build or plan to go bigger, invest in the 9".
our midwest chassis 9" costed 4,400$ FULLY BUILT, but can range down to 2,800$.
BUT just my .02cents, someone else may differ.
built 10bolt, as in hardened axles and gears- good for mild launches, but def affordable and streetable.
next step is a 12 bolt, usually from a 2500 truck scrap and build but can only go up to a 32 axle spline, but good for pretty hefty builds and the weekend street racing
after that is a 9" fab. now. moser has a 9".. if you read reviews on here about them most ppl hate them. they broke 3 times and stoped sending out replacements. our solution, MidWest Chassis build a 9". that thing has been a ***** for 3 different cars now and no problems, was a 10.4 car and no problems. best part is that it weighed 4lbs LIGHTER than the stock 10bolt. detroit is reliable in my opinion, and locker are good internals.
as for GEARS. if you plan on highway then def Not the 4.10s, alot of the street racers complain about being topped out at 150 or so. they eventually go 3.73's. the DREAM gear for M6 and Street/Strip.
if you had an automatic then it wouldnt be so hard on the rearends either, thus a 500hp A4 could handle a 12bolt better then an M6 due to the shock of slamming gears. overall best buy for a mild heads/cam build car would be a build detroit locker 12 bolt. but if you launch on spray and a full build or plan to go bigger, invest in the 9".
our midwest chassis 9" costed 4,400$ FULLY BUILT, but can range down to 2,800$.
BUT just my .02cents, someone else may differ.
12-27-2011, 02:50 AM
#7
Yeah, the thing is, I don't drag the car or anything at all. It's just a weekend warrior. So saving up for a 9in rear, etc, is not even a glimpse in my priorities at the moment.
I HAVE to replace the pinion seal soon, so I was just seeing if it would be worth it or not to swap some gears since I'm already replacing the pinion seal.
I HAVE to replace the pinion seal soon, so I was just seeing if it would be worth it or not to swap some gears since I'm already replacing the pinion seal.
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12-27-2011, 05:32 AM
#8
listen i love 4.10s,4,30s,4.56s in a 6 speed, and it is very worth is to upgrade the rear, can you do the gear swap? if you cant its not a bad idea to look for a 10 bolt with 4.10s, gears,rear cover,stud kit,etc can add up, as where you can more than likely find a 10 bolt with 4.10s for way cheaper than you can build one for,
12-27-2011, 05:35 AM
#9
10 bolts on a m6 car are junk though, its a really good feeling when you know you can launch the car as hard as you want without breaking anything,also i have seen moser 12 bolts and 9 inch rears for sale from 1200 to 1700 range maybe a lil more or less, my buddy got his 9 inch for 1300, he had to drive a few hours away but after a few bucks to change some things he got a killer deal
12-27-2011, 08:54 PM
#10
Yeah I understand. I love my Camaro and all, and have pretty much finished modding the car to where I wanted it, but I have other priorities now (my house, etc) so dropping a couple grand for a new rear doesn't interest me at the moment, at least.
I'll probably just end up replacing the pinion seal and call it a day.
I'll probably just end up replacing the pinion seal and call it a day.
