I am done with my 9 inch...10 bolt going back in
#41
you can see why im hesitant to do even anything because its pretty much a lost cause already.
#42
I'll never be ahead on this ****** thing. Im upside down on it deep. I ran it for a while used. bolts backed out of ring gear, broke nodular case, ruined carrier. bought whole new aluminum third member with yukon gears. Yukon gears ate themselves to pieces after PROPER break in period. randy's refused to warranty them. put in new bearings and richmonds at a local shop. howls like a banshee.
you can see why im hesitant to do even anything because its pretty much a lost cause already.
you can see why im hesitant to do even anything because its pretty much a lost cause already.
I know one thing after all I have been through, I would like to take a ride in someones car that says they have a quiet 9 inch in an F body. I just find it hard to believe.
#43
The 9" Ford is without any doubt the most used rear axle in drag racing. They are in everything from Toyota's to dragsters. They're in many many street rigs. Not to mention the millions and millions of stock Fords that had them. But according to you guys they are no good. You can't make that point because it's not true. Like I said before, find a real shop and let them look at the whole problem. You may be fighting a bent housing or some other anomaly. I understand how frustrating this is for you and why you may want to go to a 12 bolt or Dana but believe me the 9" is the easiest, most supported rear axle out there. If you would live through a ring gear problem in a Dana you would know what I'm talking about.
Al 95 Z28 w/S60 (Thanks again Carl.) I did it because it was the easiest way out of a blown 10 bolt. Yes I could of used a 9" but I just wanted to bolt it in and go. The S60 is plug and play, or at least was in my 95. Took one afternoon to swap it out and have the drive shaft modified at a local shop. My only unexpected item was the lug bolts were 1/2" and the stockers are 12 MM. My UMI torque arm bolted right up, and so did the LCA's, sway bar, panhard rod and brakes. Easy peasy lemon squeezy
Al 95 Z28 w/S60 (Thanks again Carl.) I did it because it was the easiest way out of a blown 10 bolt. Yes I could of used a 9" but I just wanted to bolt it in and go. The S60 is plug and play, or at least was in my 95. Took one afternoon to swap it out and have the drive shaft modified at a local shop. My only unexpected item was the lug bolts were 1/2" and the stockers are 12 MM. My UMI torque arm bolted right up, and so did the LCA's, sway bar, panhard rod and brakes. Easy peasy lemon squeezy
#44
The 9" Ford is without any doubt the most used rear axle in drag racing. They are in everything from Toyota's to dragsters. They're in many many street rigs. Not to mention the millions and millions of stock Fords that had them. But according to you guys they are no good. You can't make that point because it's not true. Like I said before, find a real shop and let them look at the whole problem. You may be fighting a bent housing or some other anomaly. I understand how frustrating this is for you and why you may want to go to a 12 bolt or Dana but believe me the 9" is the easiest, most supported rear axle out there. If you would live through a ring gear problem in a Dana you would know what I'm talking about.
Al 95 Z28 w/S60 (Thanks again Carl.) I did it because it was the easiest way out of a blown 10 bolt. Yes I could of used a 9" but I just wanted to bolt it in and go. The S60 is plug and play, or at least was in my 95. Took one afternoon to swap it out and have the drive shaft modified at a local shop. My only unexpected item was the lug bolts were 1/2" and the stockers are 12 MM. My UMI torque arm bolted right up, and so did the LCA's, sway bar, panhard rod and brakes. Easy peasy lemon squeezy
Al 95 Z28 w/S60 (Thanks again Carl.) I did it because it was the easiest way out of a blown 10 bolt. Yes I could of used a 9" but I just wanted to bolt it in and go. The S60 is plug and play, or at least was in my 95. Took one afternoon to swap it out and have the drive shaft modified at a local shop. My only unexpected item was the lug bolts were 1/2" and the stockers are 12 MM. My UMI torque arm bolted right up, and so did the LCA's, sway bar, panhard rod and brakes. Easy peasy lemon squeezy
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-h...-a-ford-9-inch
#46
Wow, what carrier are you running? Make sure your axles are not hitting the pin inside your posi, if that is what you have. Mine were and it caused it to eat ring and pinions. As far as the bolts backing out, I could see how that would happen. The ring gear holes in my trac lock are way bigger than the diamter of the acctual bolt, all kinds of slop. At least the 10 bolt ring gear bolts fit the holes in the carrier. I even checked an old Ford carrier that came out of the junk yard and it was the same way. One of the many times I tore it down I could tell the ring gear had spun a little on the carrier becasue the bolt holes were so big.
I know one thing after all I have been through, I would like to take a ride in someones car that says they have a quiet 9 inch in an F body. I just find it hard to believe.
I know one thing after all I have been through, I would like to take a ride in someones car that says they have a quiet 9 inch in an F body. I just find it hard to believe.
#47
#48
#49
Its built by yukon, as is the third member. idk if the axles are touching or not. I did measure the distance from the pins to the seat of the bearing where the shaft enters the tube. the measurement says they shouldnt be touching, but then again ive been wrong before. idk whats causing it, but ive lost hope for a quiet 9". its on strike 3 right now. I think ill be checking it out this spring.