96lt4c4

iTrader: (5)

for now. I don’t know if I am going to sell it or just keep it for future use. For right now I am done with the danm thing. After multiple ring and pinions and all the other problems I have had (bad Moser axle) I cant take it anymore. The noise this thing makes is just horrible, the bad thing is the setup is completely right. The housing is straight, axles are straight/ the right length, and the center section is good. I actually bought a pinion depth tool just for a 9 inch Ford, and used it to check my work and I was .001" from the measurement etched on the pinion just going by pattern. The gear in there now is a U.S. Gear 3.90 Competition Ring and Pinion made right here in the US. Its pretty funny because I can setup 10 bolts in my sleep and make them quiet. I just setup one for a friend with Motive 3.90's and his is danm near silent.https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...t-weekend.html So thats what is going back in my car. I do not race my car so I figure I do not need the danm thing anyway. I know a lot of people talk **** on the Motive blue box gears but that may be the ticket to a quiet 9" the Blue box are a street gear. Almost all 9 inch ring and pinions being made a race gears, because thats what everyone wants a 9 inch for in the first place. This adds to the noise. Also the 9 inch pinion rides further down on the ring gear which adds strength, but makes more noise.

So back in the 10 bolt goes. This is my 10 bolt with a Ratech install kit, Motive 3.90, Summit Racing girdle and a Ratech pinion spacer. I used my case spreader and pinon depth tool and it went right together. This girdle is really nice, I thought it would be a made in China POS for $129.00, but its made in the USA and came with stainless 12 point ARP cover bolts.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

If you can set up a 10 bolt a 9" is a cake walk. I'm not following the chronological order of the 9" problem you have, but let me assure you a 10 bolt is a bitch to set up correctly. Not as bad as a Dana but nothing like the ease of a 9".

If you start with a brand new ring and pinion, I can walk you right through your 9", one easy step at a time. Your big decision is crush sleeve or spacer. Tools needed are an inch pound torque wrench, a dial indicator W/ some sort of base and standard hand tools. And that's it.

Al 95 Z28 W/S-60 rear.

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

Nice move, for as bad as people make the 10 bolt out to be, on the street I have yet to see anyone break one around me with occasional trips to the track, just wearing out the bearings in OE 10 bolts. Of course these are H/C cars. My last car had 200k on the stock 10 bolt and I had it rebuilt with 3.73s, no issues. Mine is going strong in my new car at 127K and I plan on rebuilding a 3series diff and putting in 3.90s

96lt4c4

iTrader: (5)

The ultimate problem with my 9 inch was that the axles were hitting or bottoming out inside the posi. I found out from Moser that they cut my axles a little long because the order they recieved for my axles (from third party vendor) said I was running a spool. I was told by Moser that since there is no pin in a spool they leave them a little long and if they would have known I had a Trac Lock they would have been cut to the right length. WTF does it matter...cut them to my measurement. This was causing the rear to trash ring and pinons and carrier bearings, making the whole carrier wobble, partly beacuse one of the Moser axles was machined wrong. They even admited to me that they fucked up and machined my axle wrong and that they probably had a whole batch of axles that were like that and had been shipped out. So somewhere out there...over the rainbow...there are guys riding around on bad axles. They may not notice it but they are wrong.https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ser-axles.html. I admit that the axles being machined .015 off center did not tear up my rear but, that along with the axles hitting inside the posi did. The housing was checked, the axles were check/ shortened/ bad one replaced, the center section, was resetup with pinion depth tool, bearing preload is 20 inch pounds, back lash is .012, (US Gear says between .009 to .012), new US gear ring and pinoinn, new Strange nodular case, Yukon pinoin spacer and all new Timken bearings. I have had the center back out (because of noise) since all this was done, only after 500 easy miles. I went ahead and drove it like this becasue some say they will quiet down, which I think is BS, mine did not. I checked the pattern and it was just as perfect as it was when I put it in the car, lash was the same, no funny wear pattern on gears or bearing races. So now I think it just have a noisy ring and pinion in it. I am not giong to swap it again. The 10 bolt is going back in and GMMG catback is going on with it so if this ****** makes noise I wont be able the hear it.....LOL, if I do then its time for long tubes and a ORY...

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

Sucky, I have followed your build for awhile. I don't blame ya for swapping back. If you don't beat the car that hard might as well keep the ten bolt and save some weight. Just sucks for you on the wasted investment, maybe you can get some of your money back out of it.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

When you had the axle problem, then solved it did you reset the gears?

Al 95 Z28

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Went to the drags Saturday. When I got back I went to the library to get a book. On the way I saw three cars coming up the street with their emergency flashers on. The second car was a Firebird, with a clunking rear axle

Al 95 Z28

TransWS6Am

iTrader: (41)

You must not know anyone making good power, I blew my 10 bolt into dozens of little pieces on the street.

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

The majority of my friends have autos, I take back my comment I do remember 2 people breaking theirs but they were making over 700 and were sticks. But I'm with the op unless you race or make serious power I see no need to upgrade, especially with an auto. They do fade over time if you beat on them.

96lt4c4

iTrader: (5)

After I knew my axle problems were solved a brand new ring and pinion went in. The US Gear 3.90 that is in there now. I set it up by pattern only, and set the lash to .012. Screams....so I drove it 500 miles. Pulled it out checked pinion depth with the tool. I was .001 off. Made a .001 shim change set lash to .012 and had the same exact pattern as before. Everything looked text book. Still sounds like a banshee...

Its sitting on my garage floor right now, I pulled it today. I might pull the center and snap some pictures of the pattern.

96lt4c4

iTrader: (5)

I may part it out.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Find an old Ford car or truck service manual. Not a Chilton's or one of that type but a real Ford manual and look through the set up procedure for a 9". Look at the gear patterns and how to set pinion and carrier preload. You may see something you missed.

Al 95 Z28

96lt4c4

iTrader: (5)

I have one and follow it to a T. 1975 Ford F150 Factory Service Manual.

96lt4c4

iTrader: (5)

Pictures came out too small.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Look at the gear pattern you posted on your 10 bolt and compare them to the Ford manual. The Ford has a lower pinion but the pattern should look the same.

Al 95 Z28

camarovon

iTrader: (12)

Hey guys I got a camaro with a 10 bolt,my rear makes a constant noise,so I had new gears and all new bearings put in,while in there my mechanic said that I have one bad axle where it rides on the bearing,will that axle cause a noise,cause he set the rear up right?

parks450

iTrader: (17)

It may not be noticeable but it will wear out bearings prematurely.

96lt4c4

iTrader: (5)

Yes you need to replace that axle.

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

that is why, 10 bolts are not that bad in auto cars,its the m6 cars that can kill a 10 bolt at will lol

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

True but with careful driving they should be fine as long as they are setup right.