s60 questions
#1
s60 questions
i will be buying a rearend very soon. i have been looking at the s60 what all do i need to do this swap i know ill need a new driveshaft but is their anything else i might need?
#2
need to send them your backing plates and thats it. mines been great no issues as of yet i have about 2k miles on it so far but am putting a 6.0 and f1 should be done within 2 weeks. then we will put it to the test
#4
The S60 is a great, direct bolt-in reared for the f-body cars.
Like all other aftermarket rearends the brake backing plates become the axle retainer because there is no c-clips, and the axle bearing is pressed on the axle instead of installed in the housing.
Strange will install your backing plates/reluctor rings(if 4ch) for no charge if you send them in, as the S60 is normally a complete assembled rearend when you get it.
There should be nothing additional other than a driveshaft for the S60 install.
Give us a call... MWC is a direct dealer for Strange and has the best deal on the S60 rearends.
Like all other aftermarket rearends the brake backing plates become the axle retainer because there is no c-clips, and the axle bearing is pressed on the axle instead of installed in the housing.
Strange will install your backing plates/reluctor rings(if 4ch) for no charge if you send them in, as the S60 is normally a complete assembled rearend when you get it.
There should be nothing additional other than a driveshaft for the S60 install.
Give us a call... MWC is a direct dealer for Strange and has the best deal on the S60 rearends.
#5
I purchased my S60 from Carl at Central Racing Parts and he is a great guy and very easy to deal with. Im still breaking it in and only got 200 miles on it but so far it feels like its gonna be amazing. The install was super easy!
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#9
I sent my backing plates in and bought a driveshaft, other than that bolts in like stock. On a side note, not that its difficult but I had to make 2 new brake lines on my install, the stock ones are pretty gangly.
#10
#11
As for the s60 . It's more complete than I expected. I didn't read into the sway bar mounts and had some three inch clamps for the sway bar ready for when the rear arrived. They have mounts welded on and include bolts. I was pleasantly surprised. For someone like me needing a complete rear delivered with no surprises, it fit the bill. Performed flawlessly at the track.
#12
Al 95 Z28 S60
#13
Yes, but you will have trim it as already answered below.
Same goes for Spohn. It took me a little longer because I broke a cut off wheel. lol. Pretty easy to trim though.
As for the s60 . It's more complete than I expected. I didn't read into the sway bar mounts and had some three inch clamps for the sway bar ready for when the rear arrived. They have mounts welded on and include bolts. I was pleasantly surprised. For someone like me needing a complete rear delivered with no surprises, it fit the bill. Performed flawlessly at the track.
As for the s60 . It's more complete than I expected. I didn't read into the sway bar mounts and had some three inch clamps for the sway bar ready for when the rear arrived. They have mounts welded on and include bolts. I was pleasantly surprised. For someone like me needing a complete rear delivered with no surprises, it fit the bill. Performed flawlessly at the track.
If you plan to add suspension parts, the time to do it is when you are doing your swap.
Also, if you plan to run a drag bar, order your rear with the swar bar mounts deleted, but MWC makes a nice drag bar that bolts to the stock mounts.
Now is also the time to add LCA relocation brackets if you decide to go that route too.
Check out my installation thread .... https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ca-s-phbr.html
Last edited by BrianSF-GA; 04-11-2012 at 09:00 AM.
#14
One last thing I forgot .... I ordered new brake backing plates from my local Chevrolet dealership cheaper than buying new ones from Strange and shipped them to Strange. I kept my existing 10-bolt intact for a future demod if necessary.
#16
Yes, LS1 cars require you to send the backing plates in, the LT1 cars do not.
#17
FYI to all on the backing plate thing... on the 93-97 brakes Strange includes a nice set of billet black anodized caliper mounts at no extra cost.
The 98-02 cars require you to send in a set of caliper mounts and tin shields. Strange had some in stock still.
The tin shield part is still available, but the caliper mount bracket is now obsolete other than the RH one for 4ch.
I may consider making new ones once we move to our new shop in a few months, as we will have a cnc mill there.
The 98-02 cars require you to send in a set of caliper mounts and tin shields. Strange had some in stock still.
The tin shield part is still available, but the caliper mount bracket is now obsolete other than the RH one for 4ch.
I may consider making new ones once we move to our new shop in a few months, as we will have a cnc mill there.
#18
FYI to all on the backing plate thing... on the 93-97 brakes Strange includes a nice set of billet black anodized caliper mounts at no extra cost.
The 98-02 cars require you to send in a set of caliper mounts and tin shields. Strange had some in stock still.
The tin shield part is still available, but the caliper mount bracket is now obsolete other than the RH one for 4ch.
I may consider making new ones once we move to our new shop in a few months, as we will have a cnc mill there.
The 98-02 cars require you to send in a set of caliper mounts and tin shields. Strange had some in stock still.
The tin shield part is still available, but the caliper mount bracket is now obsolete other than the RH one for 4ch.
I may consider making new ones once we move to our new shop in a few months, as we will have a cnc mill there.
#19
Hey Brian,
Are those 2.5 inch wheel studs you got the 'long' wheel stud option, and do they stick far enough out of your drag wheels to satisfy the NHRA wheel stud protrusion rule?
Are those 2.5 inch wheel studs you got the 'long' wheel stud option, and do they stick far enough out of your drag wheels to satisfy the NHRA wheel stud protrusion rule?
#20
The basic NHRA rule says that the wheel stud must protrude into the hex portion of the lug by a distance at least equal to the diameter of the stud. The shank length of the mag lugs is 1/2" and the 2" long stud protrudes 1-3/8" from the mounting surface of the rotor. The mag lugs themselves are 1-3/8" long, so, the end of the stud is flush with the open end of the mag lug. Therefore, 7/8" of the 1/2"-20 stud protrudes into the hex portion of the mag lug .... hence legal ... !
If you are only going to run a drag wheel, I would opt for the 3" stud kit which most members recommend. Since I run ZR1's on the street with closed end lugs, I chose the 2" length.
I hope this helps.