Anyone care to read my paint?
04-29-2012, 11:02 AM
#1
Anyone care to read my paint? 10 bolt 
Richmond 3.73s
Backlash is dead nuts (0.010), Pinion depth is dead nuts according to cheap raytec tool. Preload is 30ftlb. Used a Raytec solid spacer, all new bearings. . .probably saved enough money to pay myself minimum wage for doing the job. . .I had to cut every bearing off and driving the pinion race required the hammer of thor. . .anyway:
Patterns below taken while loading the ring gear with a rolled up leather glove and turning the yoke. Since I've never done this before I thought I'd see if someone that has could have a look and see if they agree that these patterns seem ok. I appreciate you guys.
Drive:
Coast:
Richmond 3.73s
Backlash is dead nuts (0.010), Pinion depth is dead nuts according to cheap raytec tool. Preload is 30ftlb. Used a Raytec solid spacer, all new bearings. . .probably saved enough money to pay myself minimum wage for doing the job. . .I had to cut every bearing off and driving the pinion race required the hammer of thor. . .anyway:
Patterns below taken while loading the ring gear with a rolled up leather glove and turning the yoke. Since I've never done this before I thought I'd see if someone that has could have a look and see if they agree that these patterns seem ok. I appreciate you guys.
Drive:
Coast:
04-30-2012, 09:25 PM
#4
ha, Roger that. . .the so called "paint" included in my install kit appears to be lithium grease.
my pinion depth was within 1 thou (there's that much error msmt to msmt) using the stock shim and ratec tool. thanks for looking though.
my pinion depth was within 1 thou (there's that much error msmt to msmt) using the stock shim and ratec tool. thanks for looking though.
05-01-2012, 05:26 AM
#6
even if the spec for this set is .010? Richmond is pretty specific about that number. and why shim the pinion and not the ring? the pinion depth is also dead on the spec for this set?
your comment is intriguing and I respect you, so just curious with the questions.
your comment is intriguing and I respect you, so just curious with the questions.
05-01-2012, 10:14 AM
#7
Richmond does not set up every gear set they make. There will always be casting/machining differences. Your pattern is telling us your pinion is sunk too far and your back lash is too tight. When your talking thousandths of an inch with the pattern right in front of you, it's hard for me to Let a guy on the other end of a phone, or a mass printed piece of paper tell me to set it up differently.
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05-01-2012, 06:36 PM
#9
ok, that's not what the literature says, the gears are serialized by hand in a matched pair, and the numbers for pinion depth and backlash are engraved by hand in a ground down section of each gear. they specifically state that each pair is run to determine these measurements
that said, they do look deep to me, but I am not sure what I'm looking at.
that said, they do look deep to me, but I am not sure what I'm looking at.
05-01-2012, 08:06 PM
#10
What i am getting at is, this is someone's job. They get out of bed every morning and come do this. I'm sure they have had a bad day at work.
Also, they have not set them up in YOUR housing. There are just too many variables for me to go by what a piece of paper says when I have hard evidence saying otherwise.
Also, they have not set them up in YOUR housing. There are just too many variables for me to go by what a piece of paper says when I have hard evidence saying otherwise.
05-05-2012, 11:51 AM
#15
OK guys, I mixed up some actual paint this time. Now, can someone explain why these are bad? The drive side especially looks like the ideal pattern shown here as far as I can tell.
http://www.precisiongear.com/pgtechpatterns.htm
Please dont just tell me they will be noisy, it's been said, I've got it, this is not my question.
If I add a pinion shim to this it's going to push the contact pattern further toward the toe (inside of gear), right? I can see that for the coast side, but the drive side looks pretty money to me, and isn't that the side that counts?
Thanks,
Steve
http://www.precisiongear.com/pgtechpatterns.htm
Please dont just tell me they will be noisy, it's been said, I've got it, this is not my question.
If I add a pinion shim to this it's going to push the contact pattern further toward the toe (inside of gear), right? I can see that for the coast side, but the drive side looks pretty money to me, and isn't that the side that counts?
Thanks,
Steve
05-05-2012, 12:08 PM
#16
You definitely need a thicker pinion shim, the pattern is too high on the tooth. The pattern should be centered from flank (root) to face (top). Where the pattern falls heel to toe you don't have much control over.
Read this Yukon Gear Installation Manual:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...VKC_N50v9wV4Fg
Or you can google it and see the pdf file.
Read this Yukon Gear Installation Manual:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...VKC_N50v9wV4Fg
Or you can google it and see the pdf file.
05-05-2012, 01:15 PM
#17
Eureka! Thanks guppy, I guess it takes a manimal to talk to a manimal? I was not getting it earlier, clearly. But I dont claim to be even the sharpest spoon in the drawer.
****, now I have to get that pinion bearing off. . .I may just go buy myself a press. Ha, consider me a member of the "not doing this again" rearend club.
I have a set of setup bearings, may have a second set after this is over. . .
****, now I have to get that pinion bearing off. . .I may just go buy myself a press. Ha, consider me a member of the "not doing this again" rearend club.
I have a set of setup bearings, may have a second set after this is over. . .
05-05-2012, 03:39 PM
#18
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I posted in the beginning what you should do. Pinion bearing needs to come off. Add a shim. Reassemble and use the side shims to set backlash to .006-.007 and get back to us with your new pattern.
05-05-2012, 06:33 PM
#19
I tried to ask this a few posts up and for whatever reason you guys seemed to think I was trying to argue with you. . .I know I dont come across well in type (or in person) so that's probably why. I ask a lot of questions, not because I'm a know it all or something, but because I'm basically clueless.
Oh, and if you guys are feeling really generous, even with a new cheap *** press and a new larger cheap *** splitter I cannot get that frigging inner pinion bearing off. You guys know some trick? The thing seemed to go on easy enough. Cant get between the gear and the inner race, end up tearing the bearing apart, then I cant grip the race anywhere well enough to get it to slide. I came in to check the thread and grab a torch, all I have is propane on hand. I'm out of acetylene.
05-05-2012, 08:01 PM
#20
quick update: within about 0.5 seconds of applying the old blue tipped wrench it came off, literally that fast with pressure applied of course. Hogged out my shims so they fit without bending on the chamfer of the gear and I'm going up 6.5mils. I'm done for the night but i'll get to work with the setup bearings tomorrow.