How much RWHP can the stock LS1 driveshaft take?
07-05-2012, 09:38 PM
#2
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: ny
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its all about how you hook up. they will take a boat load of hp. and most people upgrade when they upgrade the rear end. usually a larger steel one. but ill put money on a stock rear blowing before the stock DS 
07-05-2012, 09:43 PM
#3
Staging Lane
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Tupelo, MS (10% of the time)
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd give the stock DS 450 RWHP. Posi unit or Ring and pinion will usually go first though.
On a side note:
A PST 3.5" Aluminum drive shaft will spit the universal joint out on a mustang dyno at ~630 RWHP and ~130mph. That was exciting.
On a side note:
A PST 3.5" Aluminum drive shaft will spit the universal joint out on a mustang dyno at ~630 RWHP and ~130mph. That was exciting.
07-05-2012, 10:06 PM
#5
Staging Lane
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I broke my stocker on street tires, on the street. A buddy of mine let me have one of his spares and I ended up replacing it on the side of the road, then on the drive home my EWP failed. What a fun night that was. I am making right around 410 WHP and 405 TQ.
07-06-2012, 12:16 AM
#6
When you upgrade the rear, upgrade the drive shaft.
I went thru the trouble of installing the conversion U joint onto my stock shaft when I installed my M9, just to have it twist the shaft and bust one end (rear end, end) on the VERY first WOT run after the break in procedures. It went on the 2-3 or 3-4 shift.
I went thru the trouble of installing the conversion U joint onto my stock shaft when I installed my M9, just to have it twist the shaft and bust one end (rear end, end) on the VERY first WOT run after the break in procedures. It went on the 2-3 or 3-4 shift.
Trending Topics
07-06-2012, 06:23 AM
#8
So what I am getting is that my current 441 RWHP is probably at the limit (or past the limit compared to some). I think what I have currently is fine since I don't get traction at all really with my current setup.
So the bigger question is, what does everyone usually upgrade to? One mentioned a "larger steel one". What size? Is there a specific one people usually get? Where do you reccomend getting them from?
So the bigger question is, what does everyone usually upgrade to? One mentioned a "larger steel one". What size? Is there a specific one people usually get? Where do you reccomend getting them from?
07-06-2012, 04:47 PM
#9
Staging Lane
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Tupelo, MS (10% of the time)
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After my 1000 Flywheel HP PST 3" aluminum drive shaft puked on the dyno.... I replaced mine with a 3.5" chromoly and pressed in my own 1350 Spicer U-Joint. That is the same drive shaft they run on the outlaw 10.5 cars. It's overkill but I never have to worry about it again.
07-06-2012, 11:49 PM
#11
Staging Lane
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mine lasted 438 HP, with the NOS...a bit more. Traction was a serious issue, so I think that was the saving grace. The 275 street tires just don't cut it. Now that the S60 is in...time for some sticky tires.
07-07-2012, 12:10 AM
#12
Get the PST aluminum. It's lighter and handles up to 1500hp. Kind of a buy once, forget about it deal. I'm sure there's one or two ppl that might've broke one b4 but u gotta throw alot of Hp at it. Bob Beam recommended me to get one as I was getting the M9 rear. That guy knows his stuff, he has to really as his cars pop wheelies and all, lol. I'm pretty sure PST has a wide selection of driveshafts so u should b able to find one that suites you.
Last edited by Maniac_64; 07-07-2012 at 12:18 AM.
07-07-2012, 12:23 AM
#13
After my 1000 Flywheel HP PST 3" aluminum drive shaft puked on the dyno.... I replaced mine with a 3.5" chromoly and pressed in my own 1350 Spicer U-Joint. That is the same drive shaft they run on the outlaw 10.5 cars. It's overkill but I never have to worry about it again.
07-07-2012, 01:04 AM
#14
Staging Lane
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Tupelo, MS (10% of the time)
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Correction from my first post: I had the $300 PST 3" Aluminum (Street/Strip) w/ what I guess was a 1310 u-joint. When I called PST about it they said "yea.....that one is prolly only good for about 1000 at the flywheel.". Well it made it to ~850. The failure mechanism was the u joint.
They were super nice about it and upgraded me to the $400 3.5" Chromoly shaft for free. I chose to upgrade my slip yolk at the same time; that cost about $150. As soon as I got it, I pressed in my own 1350 Spicer u joints. I don't trust the "cryo treated" (as far as I know chinese) u joints they sent me.
Long story short. The $300 aluminum might be fine for you. If you plan to go big, bye the $400 3.5" chromoly and don't look back.
There are numerous driveshaft manufacturers across the country. PST is in FL, I know a good one in IL and TX. Shop around, you might find someone local to you.
They were super nice about it and upgraded me to the $400 3.5" Chromoly shaft for free. I chose to upgrade my slip yolk at the same time; that cost about $150. As soon as I got it, I pressed in my own 1350 Spicer u joints. I don't trust the "cryo treated" (as far as I know chinese) u joints they sent me.
Long story short. The $300 aluminum might be fine for you. If you plan to go big, bye the $400 3.5" chromoly and don't look back.
There are numerous driveshaft manufacturers across the country. PST is in FL, I know a good one in IL and TX. Shop around, you might find someone local to you.
07-07-2012, 01:19 AM
#15
Staging Lane
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Tupelo, MS (10% of the time)
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
And yes I meant buy......not bye.
On a side note: I wasn't there but I heard the DS failure one the dyno was pretty exciting. The owner of the shop was driving the car. When it broke, it spit u joint pieces, bearing caps, and one of the rear seatbelt brackets across the shop. One put a hole in the wall. Standing on the brakes will not slow down the transmission if it's no longer connected to the wheels. (shutting the car off will) A very sobering reminder of anything can happen. Don't "hang out" next to a car on the dyno. You might loose a foot or worse.
All in all, that little incident wrecked my brand new custom stainless exhaust. I was more sad about that than anything else. $800 to fix exhaust + $150 in upgrades on DS + 2 weeks of down time = sad day. Glad I was on vacation when it happened.
On a side note: I wasn't there but I heard the DS failure one the dyno was pretty exciting. The owner of the shop was driving the car. When it broke, it spit u joint pieces, bearing caps, and one of the rear seatbelt brackets across the shop. One put a hole in the wall. Standing on the brakes will not slow down the transmission if it's no longer connected to the wheels. (shutting the car off will) A very sobering reminder of anything can happen. Don't "hang out" next to a car on the dyno. You might loose a foot or worse.
All in all, that little incident wrecked my brand new custom stainless exhaust. I was more sad about that than anything else. $800 to fix exhaust + $150 in upgrades on DS + 2 weeks of down time = sad day. Glad I was on vacation when it happened.
07-15-2012, 06:28 PM
#16
Teching In
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: lake jackson
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im putting heads and cam on my ls1 motor and was wondering how much hp my stock driveshaft and rearend would handle to. Sounds like im gonna have to upgrade it to. Good info.
07-17-2012, 10:04 PM
#20
On The Tree
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Acworth Georgia
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am putting 440 to the wheels plus a 125 shot. So 560 somewhere in there. As long as the delivery of power is smooth it will hold. Start dumping the clutch and it's over. I make three or four passes twice a year with the nitrous on nitto drag tires and it hooks. So no spinning to cushion the blow. After three years it is still holding. However it can happen. I have seen it. But my car only has 18,000 miles. Replace the u joints if it has miles on it just to be safe. And don't go crazy on the launches. But if you have the cash upgrade by all means, if you like to get dirty with it.