differential seal replacement
04-08-2013, 05:22 PM
#1
differential seal replacement Read thru most of the previous posts on this subject. Keep in mind the last rear differential I fixed was on a 1955 Chevy, different process. Going thru the shop manual, they state to record the torque required to move the yoke. I did this and I measured 25 in-lbs. I see that most folks reference 15-30 in-lbs as the correct number. So if I understand the shop manual instructions, I should reassemble the yoke and shoot for 30 in-lbs as the final setting. Correct? Help an old guy out!
04-09-2013, 04:25 PM
#2
Back together, was relatively easy. The old seal practically fell out, was able to remove by hand. New seal ( GM part) had to be driven in so I guess the old seal was installed wrong or was really worn. While I had it apart, I installed a TrickFlow rear cover. Letting it sit overnight to see if it leaks, not registered yet, waiting for the town to clean up the sand and salt on the roads. Car is really clean underneath and now is not the time to abuse it with salt.
04-10-2013, 07:24 AM
#4
Just to clarify, I measured the old preload with the differential in the car and the wheels still on the axles. That is why I got a high initial number ( I think). I just checked the shop manual amd there is no mention of having to remove the wheels, just the driveshaft. So I hope I am OK with using the same measurement process before and after.
Last edited by george88gta; 04-10-2013 at 08:31 AM.
04-10-2013, 08:20 AM
#5
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If you're talking about doing an R&R on a pinion seal, typically you just reinstall the pinion nut at 125-150 lb ft with red loctite. This provides sufficent lock down without affecting the original setup for when everything was crushed and the rear was setup. If you use the torque on the nut for setting up a new pinion sleeve et al (300+ ft lb) it can throw off the setup.
04-10-2013, 08:33 AM
#6
If you're talking about doing an R&R on a pinion seal, typically you just reinstall the pinion nut at 125-150 lb ft with red loctite. This provides sufficent lock down without affecting the original setup for when everything was crushed and the rear was setup. If you use the torque on the nut for setting up a new pinion sleeve et al (300+ ft lb) it can throw off the setup.
04-10-2013, 09:00 AM
#7
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You have to almost do a rear end setup. When you crush everything together (more) it can affect your pinion depth and possibly throw off the previous pattern. I wouldn't worry about it at this point but if you wanted to you could always drain that fresh fluid, get you some marker paint, and check the pattern. You really have to put the wood to it so if you didn't use something like a two foot breaker bar you probably didn't change anything much. An good impact wrench will eff one up for sure though.
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04-10-2013, 09:05 AM
#8
You have to almost do a rear end setup. When you crush everything together (more) it can affect your pinion depth and possibly throw off the previous pattern. I wouldn't worry about it at this point but if you wanted to you could always drain that fresh fluid, get you some marker paint, and check the pattern. You really have to put the wood to it so if you didn't use something like a two foot breaker bar you probably didn't change anything much. An good impact wrench will eff one up for sfeel of backlash in the gears.ure though.
