Auburn gear pro series limited slip differential?
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Auburn gear pro series limited slip differential?
have any of y'all used, or would you all recommend the Auburn gear Pro Series limited slip differential? I'm putting down 400 rear wheel horsepower right now but I plan to make it go up to about 460 and just wondering if it will hold the power. And does it shatter or is it on smooth differential?
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someday i may do something similar. a different post mentioned replacing C clips w spacers?? to help fix a weak spot. hopefully an expert will chime in on where to buy that special part. cheers.
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If it ain't broke now don't waste your money. If it is broke now and you can't afford to upgrade the whole rear end to something capable of handling that power I would just find a used stock diff and put that in.
You could put axles, diff cover, differential, weld the tubes, etc etc.. but the fact of the matter is that is a wimpy rear end no matter what you do.
I personally went the route of replacing the gear set, putting on a diff cover and solid pinion spacer and welding the tubes. FIRST pass at the track launching to a simple 1.8 60' my 10 bolt was howling away immediately. Learn from the 1,000 people on here that made the same mistake as I thinking you could limp along an incapable rear end and save your money.
You could put axles, diff cover, differential, weld the tubes, etc etc.. but the fact of the matter is that is a wimpy rear end no matter what you do.
I personally went the route of replacing the gear set, putting on a diff cover and solid pinion spacer and welding the tubes. FIRST pass at the track launching to a simple 1.8 60' my 10 bolt was howling away immediately. Learn from the 1,000 people on here that made the same mistake as I thinking you could limp along an incapable rear end and save your money.
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If it ain't broke now don't waste your money. If it is broke now and you can't afford to upgrade the whole rear end to something capable of handling that power I would just find a used stock diff and put that in.
You could put axles, diff cover, differential, weld the tubes, etc etc.. but the fact of the matter is that is a wimpy rear end no matter what you do.
I personally went the route of replacing the gear set, putting on a diff cover and solid pinion spacer and welding the tubes. FIRST pass at the track launching to a simple 1.8 60' my 10 bolt was howling away immediately. Learn from the 1,000 people on here that made the same mistake as I thinking you could limp along an incapable rear end and save your money.
You could put axles, diff cover, differential, weld the tubes, etc etc.. but the fact of the matter is that is a wimpy rear end no matter what you do.
I personally went the route of replacing the gear set, putting on a diff cover and solid pinion spacer and welding the tubes. FIRST pass at the track launching to a simple 1.8 60' my 10 bolt was howling away immediately. Learn from the 1,000 people on here that made the same mistake as I thinking you could limp along an incapable rear end and save your money.
#6
It depends.. I have an auburn diff. With 373 and stock axles.. It's been in my car since 2007 running mt drags and is still going strong... Plenty of track passes, I think it's safer in a auto than in a m6..
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I would love a moser 9 inch rear but the spool being the cheapest at $2600 and I just dont have it. The eaton or auburn diff plus gears, master rebuild kit, and LPW diff cover come out to $1000. Which eaton should I get? The detriot truetrac? Or the limited slip "bulletproof" eaton diff?
Last edited by Silver_Bullet_Z28; 02-19-2014 at 11:03 PM.