Extreme Chassis 8.8
05-26-2004, 08:16 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
Can I see a picture of the grease fittings on the Strange rearend?
05-27-2004, 02:06 PM
#22
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I have serious doubt abot the strength of the 12 bolt vs the 8.8 (I could be wrong). I think that the 8.8 is stronger and lighter from what ive heard not seen. So again I could be wrong. And we are not all made of money. I'm a college student and had to save every penny for three months working my b-hind off just to save enough to buy the stuff I needed. I got a fully built 8.8, lower control arms, torque arm, panhard bar and relocation brackers and other misc. stuff for way under $2800. If I had gotten a built 12 bolt or a 9in, I would be in way over my head. And then there is the fact that there is no need to shorten the driveshaft, the unit comes with a conversion u-joint, and I get 100% of my money back for the $80 backing plate cores which come installed. The unit comes ready to bolt up. No tweaking necessary. It will be more then enough to do what I want to do with the car. Craig stands behind his work and if anything breakes he says he will fix it. Not many will do that. If I was building my car to run 8s well then maybe a 9inch would be in the mail but until then I think that for most the fully built $2000 8.8 is more then plenty. I'm not saying that the 12bolt is a bad choice, but money talks and a $200 difference is $200 twords the next mod. Esp. when there is no difference in the strength of the units.
05-27-2004, 05:07 PM
#23
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Just so you know, the stock driveshaft does not need to be shortened with a 9" and a good conversion U-joint is only 30$. The only thing you need to do with a 9" is slip the stock unmodified backing plates on the axle and press on the bearings. Anybody with a shop press can do that. There is no fab work.
I like the Ford 8.8". I used to run one with Moser 31 spline axles and a spool and 3.73's and ran 10.20's in a 5.0. It never even made any noise after tons of passes. But I certainly would not compare it with a 9" in strength. There's a reason it's the only rear end used in Nascar.
I paid 2160$ with shipping for a New Moser 9",fully assembled carrier with 3.50 gears, spool and 35 spline axles. I just figured I'll pay a little more for "bullet proof".
But it's always good to have choices.
Steve
I like the Ford 8.8". I used to run one with Moser 31 spline axles and a spool and 3.73's and ran 10.20's in a 5.0. It never even made any noise after tons of passes. But I certainly would not compare it with a 9" in strength. There's a reason it's the only rear end used in Nascar.
I paid 2160$ with shipping for a New Moser 9",fully assembled carrier with 3.50 gears, spool and 35 spline axles. I just figured I'll pay a little more for "bullet proof".
But it's always good to have choices.
Steve
05-27-2004, 05:38 PM
#24
Pete Z bars. This is off Madman's web site ------------------>
Here are some pics..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/176456-pete-z-bar-pictures.html#post1404164
Here are some pics..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/176456-pete-z-bar-pictures.html#post1404164
Last edited by LIL SS; 05-28-2004 at 01:13 AM.
05-27-2004, 09:48 PM
#25
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by ricekillman
I have serious doubt abot the strength of the 12 bolt vs the 8.8 (I could be wrong). I think that the 8.8 is stronger and lighter from what ive heard not seen.
So again I could be wrong. And we are not all made of money. I'm a college student and had to save every penny for three months working my b-hind off just to save enough to buy the stuff I needed. I got a fully built 8.8, lower control arms, torque arm, panhard bar and relocation brackers and other misc. stuff for way under $2800. If I had gotten a built 12 bolt or a 9in, I would be in way over my head.
And then there is the fact that there is no need to shorten the driveshaft, the unit comes with a conversion u-joint, and I get 100% of my money back for the $80 backing plate cores which come installed. The unit comes ready to bolt up. No tweaking necessary.
It will be more then enough to do what I want to do with the car. Craig stands behind his work and if anything breakes he says he will fix it. Not many will do that.
If I was building my car to run 8s well then maybe a 9inch would be in the mail but until then I think that for most the fully built $2000 8.8 is more then plenty. I'm not saying that the 12bolt is a bad choice, but money talks and a $200 difference is $200 twords the next mod. Esp. when there is no difference in the strength of the units.
Good luck in your choice!
05-13-2011, 08:25 AM
#31
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With all the interest in 8.8s I'm surprised no business that has gone into producing them has lived for long.
I'm glad I went with a 9" but I can see the appeal of the 8.8s
I'm glad I went with a 9" but I can see the appeal of the 8.8s
Last edited by Valkyn; 05-13-2011 at 08:32 AM.
06-10-2011, 12:10 AM
#34
