Whining!?
Okay, I got some 3.73s for my 10bolt from rock auto. I had them installed by a shop along with all new bearings, wheel bearings, and pinion seal.
At first everything was fine and dandy, I've read about break in periods and whatnot, I'm only at roughly 175 miles.
They're whining when on part throttle, and when coming to a stop they whine from like ~10-0.
Is this normal with the cheaper Yukon's (USA whatever) or is the backlash/pinion depth off?
Edit: It's an auburn I believe, because its a 98. The receipt says they put in the limited slip additive, and it doesn't seem like there's any slop or anything when going from drive to reverse or vise versa.
At first everything was fine and dandy, I've read about break in periods and whatnot, I'm only at roughly 175 miles.
They're whining when on part throttle, and when coming to a stop they whine from like ~10-0.
Is this normal with the cheaper Yukon's (USA whatever) or is the backlash/pinion depth off?
Edit: It's an auburn I believe, because its a 98. The receipt says they put in the limited slip additive, and it doesn't seem like there's any slop or anything when going from drive to reverse or vise versa.
Took it back about 30 mins ago, guy said it may just be the gears but to be safe he'll rip it back apart and take a look.
My last set was kinda noisy as well buy not quite this noisy.
My last set was kinda noisy as well buy not quite this noisy.
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County, Pa.
Some gear setup people have told me that after 10 miles it is too late, and that there is already a set pattern established at those low miles, while others have said one is OK to reset the r&p up to 500 miles.
Who is correct here??
Who is correct here??
I dunno man, he screwed with pinion depth and backlash all day today and couldn't get it quiet. Thing still sounds like a damn plane lol.
I'm just going to run em like this for now I suppose, gives me all the more reason to save up for a 9in or 12 bolt.
I'm just going to run em like this for now I suppose, gives me all the more reason to save up for a 9in or 12 bolt.
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Dagsboro, DE
Typically whine is from installer error, but there could be an issue with the set you have. Being that loud would make me say either it was install error or the set was dropped and chipped before install.
Okay, I got some 3.73s for my 10bolt from rock auto. I had them installed by a shop along with all new bearings, wheel bearings, and pinion seal.
At first everything was fine and dandy, I've read about break in periods and whatnot, I'm only at roughly 175 miles.
They're whining when on part throttle, and when coming to a stop they whine from like ~10-0.
Is this normal with the cheaper Yukon's (USA whatever) or is the backlash/pinion depth off?
Edit: It's an auburn I believe, because its a 98. The receipt says they put in the limited slip additive, and it doesn't seem like there's any slop or anything when going from drive to reverse or vise versa.
At first everything was fine and dandy, I've read about break in periods and whatnot, I'm only at roughly 175 miles.
They're whining when on part throttle, and when coming to a stop they whine from like ~10-0.
Is this normal with the cheaper Yukon's (USA whatever) or is the backlash/pinion depth off?
Edit: It's an auburn I believe, because its a 98. The receipt says they put in the limited slip additive, and it doesn't seem like there's any slop or anything when going from drive to reverse or vise versa.
Trending Topics
Only update I have is they're still whining. I don't think it was really improper set up as he did my last set that were good.
They didn't start whining until about 75-100 miles ish.
I'm just going to have to deal with it for now I suppose.
They didn't start whining until about 75-100 miles ish.
I'm just going to have to deal with it for now I suppose.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo The only thing I can think of is that the location screwed me over. His shop is about 15 mins away from my house and there's about a 7-10 min stretch of 55mph road. Its unavoidable and I travelled on it quite a few times getting to and from work.
I may have overheated the gears? I followed the break in procedures as well as I possibly could, but none of them said anything about speeds. If it doesn't go away within 500 miles of the install I'm just going to get some Richmond or motives, for now and then save up for a 9in or 12 bolt.
I may have overheated the gears? I followed the break in procedures as well as I possibly could, but none of them said anything about speeds. If it doesn't go away within 500 miles of the install I'm just going to get some Richmond or motives, for now and then save up for a 9in or 12 bolt.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: SF 94110
Okay, I got some 3.73s for my 10bolt from rock auto. I had them installed by a shop along with all new bearings, wheel bearings, and pinion seal.
At first everything was fine and dandy, I've read about break in periods and whatnot, I'm only at roughly 175 miles.
They're whining when on part throttle, and when coming to a stop they whine from like ~10-0.
Is this normal with the cheaper Yukon's (USA whatever) or is the backlash/pinion depth off?
Edit: It's an auburn I believe, because its a 98. The receipt says they put in the limited slip additive, and it doesn't seem like there's any slop or anything when going from drive to reverse or vise versa.
At first everything was fine and dandy, I've read about break in periods and whatnot, I'm only at roughly 175 miles.
They're whining when on part throttle, and when coming to a stop they whine from like ~10-0.
Is this normal with the cheaper Yukon's (USA whatever) or is the backlash/pinion depth off?
Edit: It's an auburn I believe, because its a 98. The receipt says they put in the limited slip additive, and it doesn't seem like there's any slop or anything when going from drive to reverse or vise versa.
I already took it back.. I said that like 3 posts ago man 
He tried adjusting backlash and pinion depth multiple times and could not get the noise to stop. Its a little quieter, but still fairly loud.
I trust the guy, he's done every thing i couldn't do because I don't have the tools or equipment (rear main seal in my 3.4 bird, last set of 3.73s in my 3.8 camaro, half of my tubular a arm install in my ls1 car(The rear drivers side bolt got seized in side ways and I have no air or torch)) everything always turns out good up until now.
There are no clunks or what have you, just a solid whine that changes pitch with speed on accel, and a loud dronish kinda sound from 15 or 10-0 coming to a stop.
He tried adjusting backlash and pinion depth multiple times and could not get the noise to stop. Its a little quieter, but still fairly loud.
I trust the guy, he's done every thing i couldn't do because I don't have the tools or equipment (rear main seal in my 3.4 bird, last set of 3.73s in my 3.8 camaro, half of my tubular a arm install in my ls1 car(The rear drivers side bolt got seized in side ways and I have no air or torch)) everything always turns out good up until now.
There are no clunks or what have you, just a solid whine that changes pitch with speed on accel, and a loud dronish kinda sound from 15 or 10-0 coming to a stop.
Well they're clunking now coming to a stop, and accelerating from a stop. Anyone know a place good at rear work in NEPA? Close to Berwick or bloomsburg would be preferable
Which is it?
Its both, last set had a whine that could be drowned out by my 3.8 exhaust. This time it sounds like a damn airplane at very light throttle. Still barely any noise on coast and also barely any one 1/3 throttle and up. It also makes a noise from around 10 mph and lower.
They were setup incorrectly on your first car too. 7.6 rears are the easiest diff to setup. You really can't go wrong with it unless you have no idea how to PROPERLY set it up. You shouldn't need an exhaust system or radio to drown the noise down.
The next place you go to I would ask plenty of questions about their installs and if they warranty their work.
Stay away from Richmond's and get a set of GM gears.
The next place you go to I would ask plenty of questions about their installs and if they warranty their work.
Stay away from Richmond's and get a set of GM gears.
Honestly the only thing stopping me from trying it myself is the micrometer and other special tools I don't have. I don't have an engine hoist either, or air tools. Everything aside from engine drops, and rear work I do myself.
So I've decided once I grab a dd truck( hopefully in a few weeks) im going to buy the proper tools and rebuild a used 10 bolt from a j/y. Any tips/tricks or anything I should know of?
I plan on getting an Eaton posi, girdle, another set of higher end 3.73s and a crush sleeve eliminator.
What would you all recommend for wheel bearings and all the bearings in the rear in terms of brand?
I plan on getting an Eaton posi, girdle, another set of higher end 3.73s and a crush sleeve eliminator.
What would you all recommend for wheel bearings and all the bearings in the rear in terms of brand?
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County, Pa.
I would try and find U.S. MADE (NOT just 'boxed' here!) SKF bearings (and their seals are decent as well, even if these are made in Mehico), as these are some of the best.
Sadly, I don't think the Ratech installation kits use these anymore, and probably have gone to Sino made junk, like all of the rest.
And YES, try to find a new old stock, U.S. made, GM/AAM gear set as well, as has already been suggested, IF you want the quietest ones out there.
Sadly, I don't think the Ratech installation kits use these anymore, and probably have gone to Sino made junk, like all of the rest.
And YES, try to find a new old stock, U.S. made, GM/AAM gear set as well, as has already been suggested, IF you want the quietest ones out there.