Inspecting Donor Rear, Low $
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Inspecting Donor Rear, Low $
I just received a complete donor 10-bolt just for axles (the price was right from my buddy) but wouldn't mind having the rest around to try my hand at building one up in the future (if I eff it up, at least its just a 10bolt :b ).
I'm anxious to see what kind of condition everything is in before thinking that I'll be installing anything. I could just bolt it in and see how she rolls but I'd hate to do all that work just to learn that it's worse off than my current one. On the other hand I could tear it down and get the axles ready but money is officially tight so no slide hammer loaner cash until payday :/
I understand I probably sound impatient, I just figured if there's any telltale but subtle sounds or sights to look for that I haven't learned yet that would tell me not to waste the time bolting it in and at least gather the parts & fluids I'll need for the axle swap.
I felt no excessive play in the axles, saw no abnormal leaks, I do hear the diff turning very clearly but sounds no louder than the one thats currently in the car and doesn't seem to be making the axle bearing noises I hear on the one it's replacing.
The pics are the only ones I have of it right now, just needed some inventory shots of sale items & I was too tired to position them elsewhere and definitely too tired to move the rear.
Any assistance is appreciated, any criticism will be duly noted
I'm anxious to see what kind of condition everything is in before thinking that I'll be installing anything. I could just bolt it in and see how she rolls but I'd hate to do all that work just to learn that it's worse off than my current one. On the other hand I could tear it down and get the axles ready but money is officially tight so no slide hammer loaner cash until payday :/
I understand I probably sound impatient, I just figured if there's any telltale but subtle sounds or sights to look for that I haven't learned yet that would tell me not to waste the time bolting it in and at least gather the parts & fluids I'll need for the axle swap.
I felt no excessive play in the axles, saw no abnormal leaks, I do hear the diff turning very clearly but sounds no louder than the one thats currently in the car and doesn't seem to be making the axle bearing noises I hear on the one it's replacing.
The pics are the only ones I have of it right now, just needed some inventory shots of sale items & I was too tired to position them elsewhere and definitely too tired to move the rear.
Any assistance is appreciated, any criticism will be duly noted
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Sorry, I knew I'd forget something.
Don't know too many specifics about the car it came out of but I do believe it is the same as my 2001 M6 w/ABS only, I think it was an Auto trans.
As for the slide hammer I thought that was the proper way to remove old axle bearings (the main problem I'm aiming to fix).
Don't know too many specifics about the car it came out of but I do believe it is the same as my 2001 M6 w/ABS only, I think it was an Auto trans.
As for the slide hammer I thought that was the proper way to remove old axle bearings (the main problem I'm aiming to fix).
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I thought you were referring to a slide hammer to pull the axles,sorry.
If it is from a auto,ratio will be different,2.73 or 3.23 compared to your M6s' 3.42.
No criticism,as long as the housing is compatible with the ABS sensor on top,it's a good way to go to have a complete 2nd rearend.
If it is from a auto,ratio will be different,2.73 or 3.23 compared to your M6s' 3.42.
No criticism,as long as the housing is compatible with the ABS sensor on top,it's a good way to go to have a complete 2nd rearend.
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sunnuvabee, i forgot about the lower ratios :/ well if i muster up the energy this weekend i might just try the swap. I just remembered the wheels will help to move one out and one in, minimal bear hugging like i was dreading ;b
And in the end, i dont mind being a little slow for a bit in turn for not shooting an axle at the guy in the next lane and being faster and stronger down the line now i just gotta keep fingers crossed that the donor dont suck.
And in the end, i dont mind being a little slow for a bit in turn for not shooting an axle at the guy in the next lane and being faster and stronger down the line now i just gotta keep fingers crossed that the donor dont suck.
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If it has a Auburn posi you can check its condition by restraining one axle and measuring the amount of torque it takes to make the other axle spin. Then swap sides and repeat. The factory spec is about 35-75 ftlbs, the higher the better. If the rear is dry the readings will be somewhat higher than they'd be full of lube. I made the mistake of building one up with low readings, worked good for a while but now I've got a nice quiet 4.10 rear that needs a posi under foot in the garage.
Last edited by guppymech; 05-22-2015 at 09:58 AM.
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Hmmm. I did exactly what you said the night i got it (no measuring, just coppin' a feel). But i was thinking the easier it goes the better.
Looks like my new plan for the day is to get the car up with the its rearend on stands and as bare as the donor ('cept brake lines in case of bugout), set up the donor right next to her and bust out the stethescope and torque wrench.
May the best rear end win! :b I'll make sure to either find markings or ill do the calculation to learn my ratio for sure.
Thanks for the help peeples. After lunch, home depot and air compressor repair ill be getting started so if another bright idea pops in your heads dont be shy :b
Looks like my new plan for the day is to get the car up with the its rearend on stands and as bare as the donor ('cept brake lines in case of bugout), set up the donor right next to her and bust out the stethescope and torque wrench.
May the best rear end win! :b I'll make sure to either find markings or ill do the calculation to learn my ratio for sure.
Thanks for the help peeples. After lunch, home depot and air compressor repair ill be getting started so if another bright idea pops in your heads dont be shy :b
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Pretty sure when you spin one axle with a Torsen the other axle will spin the opposite direction just like a open rearend, not to worry. If the replacement rear has a Torsen and the oil and magnet look good you're probably better off than with a Auburn as there's no cones to wear out.
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True. Is there any noticeable sound difference between the torsen and auburn? I know i have torsen and both sight and sound these 2 diffs are nearly identical except for the bad axle bearings on one, TBD on the other.