Lessons leared, advice, tips: Driving with a Spool
QuickPerformance new, fabricated housing
Back brace
Internal Gussetting
Fabricated center
Moser 35 Spline Axles, gundrilled
Lightened axle flanges
1/2 20x2" studs
Yukon Nodular Iron Center section
Motive 3.50
35 HD Spool
Aluminum Daytona Pinion Support
Billet Steel 1350 Yoke
I really wanted to go with a True Trac, but.. for right now, spending that 700 bucks elsewhere was more important to me.
I want to hear from you guys that drive spools, what are some techniques, lessons learned, advice etc. Is it really as big a deal as everyone says? I figured it was probably easier to go with a spool behind a T56 than a Detroit locker.
Also, anyone have a part number for what U-joint I need? And as far as the install, is there any tools or presses that I will need that aren't common? I've got a pretty big tool inventory and know my way around an F-body. The only thing I haven't done myself is the 4.10 install in the 10 bolt.
I'll post pictures when it arrives, may be a few weeks though..
Thanks in advanced!
In wet weather, make sure to slow your speed down if you're on twisty roads. Bob
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website

Napa 447 is the conversion u joint to mate the stock driveshaft to a 1350 yoke. Keep in mind though that a 9 inch typically needs a one inch longer driveshaft to be engaged into the transmission as far as it should be.
Napa 80/90 weight non synthetic gear oil is cheap and does the job. Bob
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website

Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
decisions.. and they're probably already building it
Last edited by IronThomas; Jun 28, 2016 at 11:16 PM.
Best advice I can offer is bring some traffic cones to a big abandoned parking lot and waste some crap tires getting to know how your car will react to random events.
Parking lots suck ***, driveway will have tire marks pulling in and out, neighborhood turns have tire marks, and you can park it by locking the front wheels all the way to either side. The steering lock causing the rear end bind is my only parking brake lol
Regarding turns from a stop and u-turns, give it some gas and she'll come around lol
Also, for anyone in the same boat as me, I went ahead and got the axles drilled for 5/8" studs. My racestars won't fit, but I spoke to the wheel designer from Racestar and the said that drill the centers 1.31", using the same depth diameter in order to make them fit will not degrade the integrity of the wheel.
Once the front wheels lock over there is no way any person will push the car hard enough to break traction of 11" wide slicks or drag radials.
Once the front wheels lock over there is no way any person will push the car hard enough to break traction of 11" wide slicks or drag radials.
The f'ing privatized inspection shops would try and get you to have them install the factory set up for ~$1500.00+ after failing you for not having one.
Once the front wheels lock over there is no way any person will push the car hard enough to break traction of 11" wide slicks or drag radials.










