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Jesus that is some serious wear. Surprised it lasted till now and didnt start breaking teeth off the ring or pinion.
Honestly, so am I lol. I've only had the car a year and a half. It was stock with a catback when I got it. I added bolt ons and 285 tires on 10.5 wheels. Was fine for a year, then on the move from Ohio to Texas I noticed a slight whine along the way. I have fun in it, but I don't dump the clutch or anything. The whine got slightly louder over the last few months, nothing major, couldn't hear it over radio, but with no radio you could notice it. Then couple weeks ago, got in it to run to town, and it was WAILING, like a damn freight train air horn off in the distance. Was fine the day before lol.
Once a bearing starts to go,all those tiny hardened bits form an abrasive slurry in the fluid which in turn causes that kind of wear on all parts. As all parts start to wear,the abrasive slurry increases in concentration. Once it starts,frequent fluid changes will extend the life of the parts by periodically removing the slurry.
Did you take a pic of the magnet ?
Once a bearing starts to go,all those tiny hardened bits form an abrasive slurry in the fluid which in turn causes that kind of wear on all parts. As all parts start to wear,the abrasive slurry increases in concentration. Once it starts,frequent fluid changes will extend the life of the parts by periodically removing the slurry.
Did you take a pic of the magnet ?
Yes most of it is iron/steel dust that is held in the magnetic lines of force to appear to be large pieces,but they're not.
Axle bearings and the surfaces on the axles that ride in the bearings should also show wear. Your rebuild kit doesn't contain/show axle bearings and seals. NEVER use 'axle saver' bearings.
RING GEAR BOLTS ARE LEFT HAND THREAD.
Are you rebuilding or someone else ?
Yes most of it is iron/steel dust that is held in the magnetic lines of force to appear to be large pieces,but they're not.
Axle bearings and the surfaces on the axles that ride in the bearings should also show wear. Your rebuild kit doesn't contain/show axle bearings and seals. NEVER use 'axle saver' bearings.
RING GEAR BOLTS ARE LEFT HAND THREAD.
Are you rebuilding or someone else ?
Kit was just everything for the differential. I'm picking up new axle bearings/seals from the parts store when i get out of class today, and not the 'axle saver' kind.
Thanks for the heads up on the ring gear bolts, I didn't realize that!
I'm doing it myself. Ive watched dozens of videos on YouTube, and read, read, read, read, read DIYs and How To's. I'm pretty confident that I can do it. But if I do run into trouble, a buddy of mine said he'd help. He grew up in drag racing with his dad, and has rebuilt and set up dozens of rear end throughout the years.
In your pic#7,check to make sure those torsen carrier bolts are tight,they've been known to come loose and destroy everything in the rear.
when it's done and in the car,do the recommended break-in procedure and then do the recommended break-in procedure AGAIN,then drain and refill.
In your pic#7,check to make sure those torsen carrier bolts are tight,they've been known to come loose and destroy everything in the rear.
when it's done and in the car,do the recommended break-in procedure and then do the recommended break-in procedure AGAIN,then drain and refill.
good point, ill double check em when i put the new ring gear on.
As far as the break in procedure, what i mostly read is
drive roughly 10 miles, let it cool off 30-40 minutes.
then light driving for 500 miles. then change fluid. then g2g
In the motive gear set, the 'instructions' it said to drive the 10 miles and let cool off for 30-40 minutes, but also not to drive at steady 50-60 mph for gears lower than 3.43(? one of the lower ratios). i have the 3.90 gears, but, basically, how many heat cycles do i "need" to do, and how long before i can drive normally? i go to school Mon Wed and Fri basically 100 mile round trip.
OK, after a few setbacks, I'm finally getting back to it. OK first tooth patterns.
I used a new bearing for set up. Original shim. Set the pinion bearing preload to ~23 in/lbs. The backlash is right at .007 and the runout on the ring gear measured .003, so everything within spec.
This is the first pattern I got:
And the opposite side:
OK, so which way do I need to go with this? Add shims, or take out?
Edit: found this from Google:
According to this, it's pretty close to the new gear 'ideal'
Last edited by 99T/A_No0b; Oct 7, 2016 at 07:41 PM.
I'm going to preface this by saying I have only spent time looking at gear patterns on the internet. I have been contemplating setting up gears for years without actually attempting it. That being said I usually like to guess what adjustments need to be made and wait until someone who actually knows what they're doing comments to either confirm or deny my thoughts. Recently I have been pretty accurate so here goes.
The pinion is too deep into the ring gear. Remove .002-.003 from the pinion shim and recheck. You might want to wait for a real experts reply though.
chevelles.com and yellowbullet.com have a good amount of pattern check threads with good info on which direction you should go to hopefully confirm my opinion. Good Luck!
The yellow marking compound is applied way too thick,a common error. In pics 1,2 & 3 of the post,the teeth adjacent to the teeth that had the compound applied show the more accurate pattern since marking compound was carried to them from contact. In a sense,instead of compound being thinned on the marked teeth,compound is being applied to only the pattern areas.
I set up gears for our little 10 bolts,but it's almost always used sets that I'm doing. I establish the largest central pattern I could for strength and have no regard for noise. Any noise that might occur because of the pattern is not heard because of the exhaust.
The yellow marking compound is applied way too thick,a common error. In pics 1,2 & 3 of the post,the teeth adjacent to the teeth that had the compound applied show the more accurate pattern since marking compound was carried to them from contact. In a sense,instead of compound being thinned on the marked teeth,compound is being applied to only the pattern areas.
I set up gears for our little 10 bolts,but it's almost always used sets that I'm doing. I establish the largest central pattern I could for strength and have no regard for noise. Any noise that might occur because of the pattern is not heard because of the exhaust.
Ok, so what about this pattern then? Is it decent? Or what should I do, add a bit to the pinion, or take a bit out?
.003" ring gear runout means no matter what you set,lash is gonna vary by .003" and required pinion depth is gonna vary by .003".
That being said,the pattern is closer to the 'toe' than it is to the 'heel',increasing the lash will bring it to 'central'. With .003" runout,what is the lash at 3 spots(120 degrees apart) in 1 ring gear rotation. You might find you have a varying lash situation because of the .003" runout.
In your pic#7,check to make sure those torsen carrier bolts are tight,they've been known to come loose and destroy everything in the rear.
when it's done and in the car,do the recommended break-in procedure and then do the recommended break-in procedure AGAIN,then drain and refill.
Absolutely not necessary, the car manufacturers build millions of cars every year and not a single one gets a "BREAK IN PROCEDURE" for the differential. If its set up properly drive easy the 1st 100-500 miles then have at it. I would check the condition of the oil at 500 miles and change it every 30k unless there is a problem. Trust me I've doing this a very long time and my rears always 2-300k without issues.
I have only rebuilt my own 10 bolt but it came out good. I would remove .002 from the pinion and recheck backlash and pattern. Pattern looks too deep to me.
As for your .003 run out, if you didn't red lock tight the ring bolts already, you can double check your tone ring is flush with the ring gear mounting area. My tone ring was sticking up just a tad causing .004 runout. I hammered it flush and my runout
dropped to .002. .003 is not off that much to begin with tho.
I would just make sure if you have .003 variance on backlash, your lowest reading is 6-7 and not .004 thous. .004 would be pretty tight for motives
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10 bolt started whining.. 
