FREE BEER for the answer to this one ?????
#1
FREE BEER for the answer to this one ?????
weekend so arp office is closed,would like to drill today.anywho,need to but longer wheel studs in car and need to drill bigger holes in axles.knurl size is 5/8" or .625" . what size bit do i use to get proper bite. anyone????
#2
I just put ARP studs in last weekend for the north vs south, no drilling required. Just bang the old ones out and install new ones. Now if you are talking the larger than stock diameter studs forget it and send them back...we went through 3 drill bits trying to drill through that hardened plate, it is hard let me tell you.
#3
Originally Posted by Kevin 276
I just put ARP studs in last weekend for the north vs south, no drilling required. Just bang the old ones out and install new ones. Now if you are talking the larger than stock diameter studs forget it and send them back...we went through 3 drill bits trying to drill through that hardened plate, it is hard let me tell you.
Last edited by more carbon; 06-26-2004 at 10:29 AM.
#4
Originally Posted by more carbon
ok now i could be in big ****.the rear i ordered from moser had stock studs.i need now a 3" stud.sooo my parts guy says i need to go to a bigger stud . so he sold me these ford and chrysler monster studs from arp with a 5/8" knurl.i have 2" studs on the car now but the prostars i got have a 2" flange,sooo i need a 3" stud???? how long are your studs ya just but in????
#5
Originally Posted by Kevin 276
I also have a 12 bolt...the ARP's are roughly just went out and looked at the car, they stick out about 3/4" past the factory lug nut once its seated.
Last edited by more carbon; 06-26-2004 at 10:29 AM.
#6
Originally Posted by more carbon
you bet,those are the 2" ones i have.i am hoping with a hardened bit a guy can drill these out or i need to get a different wheel.???? prostars have too thick of a flange???
#7
Originally Posted by Kevin 276
If you could remove them and use a drill press, I am sure it would not be bad. Like I said, we had the car on the lift at stand up height using full body weight and more, with brand new bits and like I said, it was a bitch. I am also running the prostarts, 15x10 with a 7" backsapce the studs I used worked fine.
Last edited by more carbon; 06-26-2004 at 10:30 AM.
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#9
Originally Posted by Hawkn01
ARP has a hardened 12 mm stud that has a .505 knurl if you don't want to hassel with drilling. They will press right in and have worked fine for me. The guys at Moser recommended these. They are much stronger than the stock studs.
#10
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Don't worry about the thick flange on the wheel. If you are using the correct lug nuts you will not have a problem. There are longer Studs out there that will fit the stock hole in the axle as I think was already mentioned here. That will help you with tech inspection if that is why you are worried about the flange thickness.
Brad
Brad
#12
Originally Posted by SquintzPallatore
Don't worry about the thick flange on the wheel. If you are using the correct lug nuts you will not have a problem. There are longer Studs out there that will fit the stock hole in the axle as I think was already mentioned here. That will help you with tech inspection if that is why you are worried about the flange thickness.
Brad
Brad
#13
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I have the Strange drag brakes so I'm able to run the race only Bogarts that don't have the spacer welded to the wheel. The ARP 12 mm studs worked for me with my set-up. I haven't had any problems so far with them. I've cut a best sixty foot of 1.49 and average low 1.50's at a 3100lb weight with a S/I car.