Gen 4 8.8 rearend, anybody tried this? - LS1TECH



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Gen 4 8.8 rearend, anybody tried this?

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Old 04-17-2017, 01:25 PM   #1
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Default Gen 4 8.8 rearend, anybody tried this?

I know I can drop a cool $3000 and have a shiny new rearend show up at my doorstep.. But this is a hobby, not my life so exploring my options... the kid in college gets all the shiny stuff money...

For the 8.8 Maximum Motorsports makes a torque arm kit for the mustang. Wondering if I could use that and just mod the way it mounts in the front rather than finding someone to weld a kit to the 8.8 housing to use stock torque arm mount? I have a mig and the fab with old fashioned steel is much less intimidating to me than welding on the nodular iron.

OR is there a better way to ditch the torque arm and do it with a good old 4 link?
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Old 04-17-2017, 07:11 PM   #2
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Let's try and not reinvent the wheel, your thinking about it too much. There is 2 ways you and do the 8.8, you can do a ladder bar setup or get a TA mount and weld the 10 bolt axle tubes on to the 8.8 housing.
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:29 AM   #3
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Truth ^^^^
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:42 AM   #4
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Let's try and not reinvent the wheel, your thinking about it too much. There is 2 ways you and do the 8.8, you can do a ladder bar setup or get a TA mount and weld the 10 bolt axle tubes on to the 8.8 housing.
So somebody reinvented the wheel the first time they stuck the 8.8 into the f body... Just looking for options... and insight before I work myself into a corner..
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:52 PM   #5
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You would be better off buying a S60 or a 12bolt.
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Old 04-18-2017, 04:23 PM   #6
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Mini ladder bar would be the simplest, doesnt mean it will ride nice or be reliable.
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:05 PM   #7
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theres a thread in this section within the last 3-5 months using a torque arm that will be hard to explain , someone makes it to sell but cant recall who , not an official vendor on here but anyways this torque arm mounts to the rear cover bolts with multiple tubes going around the pumpkin/housing then meeting in the yoke area where they blend into the arm portion of the torque arm - takes welding on the housing out of the picture. There is also a suspension vendor on here that has dropped hints on being in the process of developing a fab 8.8 housing so you can buy the housing designed for torque arm then use gears , posi units etc.. out of boneyard rears , retain factory brake components etc... the 8.8 stock parts are so cheap it would be nice just to be able to buy a housing that makes all those innards usable , but if you can find or if anyone can link that torque arm I am describing that may be the ticket your looking for.
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:03 AM   #8
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theres a thread in this section within the last 3-5 months using a torque arm that will be hard to explain , someone makes it to sell but cant recall who , not an official vendor on here but anyways this torque arm mounts to the rear cover bolts with multiple tubes going around the pumpkin/housing then meeting in the yoke area where they blend into the arm portion of the torque arm - takes welding on the housing out of the picture. There is also a suspension vendor on here that has dropped hints on being in the process of developing a fab 8.8 housing so you can buy the housing designed for torque arm then use gears , posi units etc.. out of boneyard rears , retain factory brake components etc... the 8.8 stock parts are so cheap it would be nice just to be able to buy a housing that makes all those innards usable , but if you can find or if anyone can link that torque arm I am describing that may be the ticket your looking for.
Thanks I will search some more.. I did find 2 older threads where someone used the Max motorsports torque arm with modified crossmember mount like I was thinking.. he checked in after 2 years and 10k miles with no issues... I come from a mustang which is what got me to thinking.. I really don't want to weld on the housing.
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:40 AM   #9
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...es-we-can.html

that thread will give you pics on page 2 & 3 of the type of bolt on torque arm I am talking about , in this case its a thread for using an 8.5 gm rear but its the same idea as the ones I have seen in an 8.8 thread , this thread also has the vague reference on page 3 from a vendor regarding "something in the works" for a fab 8.8
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:00 AM   #10
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Keeping tabs on this. The 8.8 seems like a promising rear for the average F-body guy who doesn't need a rear end capable of 6k rpm launches with 600 hp
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Old 04-20-2017, 10:57 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by PyroguyFTW View Post
Keeping tabs on this. The 8.8 seems like a promising rear for the average F-body guy who doesn't need a rear end capable of 6k rpm launches with 600 hp
Its identical is every way to a 12 bolt, in case you didnt realize.
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Old 04-20-2017, 11:05 AM   #12
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Keeping tabs on this. The 8.8 seems like a promising rear for the average F-body guy who doesn't need a rear end capable of 6k rpm launches with 600 hp
You would think that however what no one talks about is the people that went this route and had bad luck. I'm assuming because it is non sponsors building these so they are not recognized on here. Different on FB groups though as you do read about them on there.

However we had six customers last year have them built and had nothing but problems to only wash their hands of them and purchase a proven working rear end either with a Strange S60 or one of our fabricated nine inches.

For what you can purchase a S60 or a Strange 12-bolt for you do not have all the headaches of trying to cobble something together and then use used parts. We build 8.8 all the time for Mustang customers and there is a reason we have to brace them up to survive. Local gentleman with a GT500 has tried everything to make his 8.8 survive to the point now he is considering a fabricated nine inch. This is a stock weight bolt on car making a modest HP number around 600WHP. That isn't uncommon for GT500 owners to have issues.

Another downfall is clearly whomever is offering some are not putting the pinion in the correct location and I've had two customers having a hard time finding a short torque arm crossmember to work and have to build custom driveshaft loop crossmembers because the driveshaft is close to the loop which we all know there isn't that much room to begin with so moving it around isn't the best option.

One just decided to go with no loop however the other needs a loop because he drag races.

We hear about it because this is what we do all day long is discuss rear ends and suspension items with customers.
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:24 AM   #13
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I hear you and would love to have the cash to drop on a shiny new rearend.. Heck take it out further and just order up a shiny freshly built car I can get in and drive to the track.. But where is the fun in that and not all of us seem to have the mountains of cash these guys have laying around.

This same decision gets made with the entire build.. Transmission, plunk down $3000... Engine, plunk down $10k, etc... Some of us do this as much for the tinkering time as we do the go fast. In fact I probably enjoy the tinkering and bench racing more than the the driving.

I come from a mustang that had an 8.8 and I was pushing 550hp with slicks and never had an issue. I also run A4's. I did the work on the rearend and suspension myself and never an issue. Maybe I was lucky but I have buddies pushing close to 800 hp through them without issues.. My plan is around 600hp with this car so I am not very concerned.

I guess just like the LS, some folks can run a stock bottom end and some fail them..

You may be right and I may end up full circle and I haven't made my mind up, just pushing around my options before I decide. It might help clarify my decision between s60 and 9inch with what I learn...

thanks again for any and all input, its how we learn..
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:35 AM   #14
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Absolute cheapest way to get into an aftermarket rear in my mind is to buy a stamped 9inch housing and axle package for around $1k, then source a center section (assembled or the pieces) separately. And I would always choose that over a hack job 8.8. Even when its done right like Hawks with the proper bearing ends etc then its ******* overpriced at $3k+.
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:02 AM   #15
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Why buy it, though? There are good writeups on how to DIY, so why not do that and end up with a solid rear end AND a sense of pride in your own work?
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Old 04-23-2017, 02:03 PM   #16
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One thing is, small wheel bearings and c clip axles. Those are huge hurdles in my mind.
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Old 04-24-2017, 04:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PyroguyFTW View Post
Why buy it, though? There are good writeups on how to DIY, so why not do that and end up with a solid rear end AND a sense of pride in your own work?
A lot can be said about pride, like pride in knowing you did it correctly the first time and didn't waste your time or money.

I can't stress it enough that we have talked to multiple customers that went this route and paid to have it done or attempted it themselves to see all the downfalls.

An to give you an idea about the 8.8 this isn't anything new, it was brought to our attention prior to '09 to see what it would take to make one work in the F-Body with a torque arm in the proper position. If you search on here you will see another chassis shop that attempted it as well and knew the problem. To fit in a F-Body properly you would need to bolt directly through the pinion to mount your torque arm.


Like 01ssreda4 mentioned to spend time and money to put a 8.8 in a vehicle dealing with the torque arm beating off the floor is a sideways move especially if you are keeping stock axles, C-Clips, and wheel studs.
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Old 04-25-2017, 06:16 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4 View Post
Absolute cheapest way to get into an aftermarket rear in my mind is to buy a stamped 9inch housing and axle package for around $1k, then source a center section (assembled or the pieces) separately. And I would always choose that over a hack job 8.8. Even when its done right like Hawks with the proper bearing ends etc then its ******* overpriced at $3k+.
Thanks for that input.. I did some more searching and this looks like a good way to go. with the 8.8 I was planning to upgrade the axles and innards anyway so that is a sunk cost. So if I can get a few hundred for my 4.10 stock rearend I can do a housing/axle package for net $700.. Figure $400 for 8.8 axles and $200 for a housing I am almost there. it is cheaper than monkeying with the 8.8..

Now to find a 9" housing.... I found 2 I like and they use different torque arm mounts so guess I need to get educated on the differences. Since one is the MWC and he has been posting maybe you can educate me on our torque arm mount vs the trick chassis mount that looks like it takes a stock torque arm...

thanks guys for all the input
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:27 AM   #19
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We mount our torque arm the way we do for many reasons, it eliminates the heavy bracket it takes to mount like stock and distributes the force differently than what a stock torque arm does when it is mounted off to one side.

Our torque arm mounting style also gives more room under the body so the torque arm isn't beating off the bottom of the floor which is common with a stamp nine housing or 8.8 using a stock style torque arm.
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