-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I am narrowing a 12 bolt using LS1 rear brakes for a mostly street-driven car that does occasional autocross. I would like to use set20 tapered bearings, but I'm a little concerned about how well they will seal.

I talked to Moser about using their 7900FM housing ends, but they strongly advised against using the tapered bearings - they said they get frequent complaints about seal issues. The 7900FM positions the bearing and seal flush inside, so that the backing plate ends up right against the housing flange.

I talked to Strange and they said they have no problems getting the set20 bearings to seal using their H1143 ends. They set it up so that the bearing protrudes 1/8" from the housing end, the brake backing plate retains the bearing & seal, and there is a 1/8" gap between the housing flange and the backing plate after assembly.

Does anyone have experience advise on what housing ends work well with the set20 bearings?

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Choose Deep Bore

We have over 1000 rear ends out there today using our housing ends and tapered bearing. Maybe we just have a better manufacturing process over others who offer flush mount housing ends.

Strange ends are nice however they are a two piece design to make them a deep bore and in my opinion just more to mess with during installation.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the pointer. I will give you a call to discuss tomorrow.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I have the above setup. No issues this far.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Do you run them with a gap between the flange and the backing plate or did you install a spacer?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I currently have 3" from the stock 12bolt flange to edge the spring perch and I want to narrow 1" per side (leaving me with about 2" from the edge of the perch to the flange end). I called Midwest, Moser, and Strange today to ask about the length of their ends. Midwest deep bore are 2.5" from the weld end to the flange, Moser 7900FM ends are 2.25" long and Strange H1143 ends are 1.3" long (the shortest of the bunch). Strange said to use their P/N B1105D spacer when using tapered bearings to take up the ~1/8" gap that would exist from the bearing protruding.

I think I will have to go with Strange ends & spacers to fit in the space I have available.

ss1

iTrader: (32)

TheBandit, that is the exact setup my strange 12-bolt uses with the tapered bearings and spacer. When the backing plate bolts are tightened it puts a little bit of preload on the bearings. The tapered bearing is packed with grease like a typical front wheel bearing. There are two seals used, one is a grease seal that goes over the bearing, between the bearing and backing plate, the other goes in the housing end first and keeps any gear oil from getting to the bearing. Strange has their setup figured out!

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Spacer with stock backing plates, pics here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...t-install.html

Now with their drag brakes the lip is machined into the backing plate so no spacer needed.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I had no idea there was an inner lip seal with their setup. That is pretty slick. I will have to ask Strange about that. Thank you!

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Moser does not have this seal, Strange does, Make sure the person you get on the phone knows its an fbody, cause most others rearends do not have it. Some are more familiar with fbody stuff then others.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for pointing this out guys. Much appreciated

ss1

iTrader: (32)

Yep, the inner seal rides on the "wedding ring" that presses on like a ************ after pressing on the bearing.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Strange no longer uses an inner seal and grease fitting for some time now.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Do you know why?

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

There is no need for two seals or a grease fitting on the housing ends. Not to mention on a sealed ball bearing your not getting grease to it and on a tapered bearing grease is not going to make its way in-between the race, bearing and outer seal once it is pressed tightly into a housing end.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Due to the poor location on the grease fitting it would be tough to actually pump it full correctly. I recommend hand packing them and as long as the seals are intact they should stay good for a long time. Strange recommended grease intervals of 10k miles to me over the phone? If you remove the inner seal you are relying on the gear oil to lube the bearings.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Correct on Strange saying packing them every 10k because if you run an inner seal you have now turned your axle bearings into an item that needs serviced. No different than your front bearings. With the gear oil reaching the bearings you no longer have to pack them every 10k miles.

However nothing wrong with regular or even above standard service on a vehicle you intend to abuse.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I got the Strange H1143 housing ends and I have one side cut and fixtured. Any input on the best method for welding? I have a Millermatic 180 MIG. I was thinking 4 equal spaced tacks, weld between two of them, flip 180 and weld between the other two, and then the remainder. I don't think I'd have much luck trying to rotate the housing for a continuous weld.

Here are some photos because all threads need photos:



My original WMS-to-WMS width was 60-1/4". I have decided to take off 1" per side, resulting in a target WMS-to-WMS of 58-1/4. After a bit of conversation with Strange, I determined to get this width I would need a flange-to-flange distance of 52.27. That is calculated as follows:

WMS width = housing flange width + 2 * axle offset + 2* rotor thickness
WMS width = 52.27 + 2.74*2 +1/4*2
WMS width = 58-1/4"

My current housing flange-to-flange width is 54-3/8". So to get there I need to remove (54.375-52.27)÷2=1.0525in from each side. I also need to account for the width of the housing end itself which is 1.300in. So from each side I need to take off 1.0525+1.3=2.3525. Round numbers that is 2-3/8". For math I like to work in exact numbers up to the point of measurement, then I can round to the nearest 1/32nd.

I used my trusty tape measure and calibrated eyecrometer to get a hose clamp spaced evenly from the flange all the way around.



The hose clamp made a great guide for my high-precision cut-off wheel.





And here is where I'm at after grinding a ~45deg bevel around. The bevel goes about 2/3 the thickness of the housing.



Let me know if you see anything odd in my math.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Seems like you've got a solid plan

cam

iTrader: (9)

I have a fixture so I dont measure its marked i cut and weld. But I posted because i bevel the ends too. Down to approx 1/16" to get 100% penetration. Root/cap. Go racin