Eaton TruTrak Problem?
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 897
Likes: 33
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Eaton TruTrak Problem? I have an Eaton TruTrak installed in my track car. It was new and installed by a pro when I built the car 3 years ago. http://www.racingtheexocet.com/?page_id=325
I used to think this was a suspension problem, and made some changes to try and fix it. But now I'm thinking it's really a differential problem.
I have two corners at High Plains Raceway that are the biggest problem; turn 2 and turn 11. Turn two is a flat single radius somewhat tight right hand corner. Turn 11 is a decreasing radius, slightly banked wider right hander, that is mostly uphill (love this corner).
In the corners, the inside (right) wheel spins until the car is pointed straight. Then it hooks up and goes. If I feather the throttle, I can keep the tire from spinning, but that costs me time. If I keep my foot in it, I can feel that tire spinning, but the car still accelerates, and I get a quicker lap time. Especially in turn 11, the tire will actually leave a long black mark, about a car length long or so. It's sort of acting like an open differential. But the car does accelerate, so power is getting to the left wheel.
In theory, the Eaton should sense that the right tire is slipping, and transfer power to the left until the right wheel isn't spinning any more. Then when both tires are getting traction, it should work like an open differential. But that doesn't appear to be happening.
Do you think this is a differential problem? Or is it still a chassis problem? Is this a somewhat know failure of the Eaton Gear? I did a google search but couldn't find anything.
I used to think this was a suspension problem, and made some changes to try and fix it. But now I'm thinking it's really a differential problem.
I have two corners at High Plains Raceway that are the biggest problem; turn 2 and turn 11. Turn two is a flat single radius somewhat tight right hand corner. Turn 11 is a decreasing radius, slightly banked wider right hander, that is mostly uphill (love this corner).
In the corners, the inside (right) wheel spins until the car is pointed straight. Then it hooks up and goes. If I feather the throttle, I can keep the tire from spinning, but that costs me time. If I keep my foot in it, I can feel that tire spinning, but the car still accelerates, and I get a quicker lap time. Especially in turn 11, the tire will actually leave a long black mark, about a car length long or so. It's sort of acting like an open differential. But the car does accelerate, so power is getting to the left wheel.
In theory, the Eaton should sense that the right tire is slipping, and transfer power to the left until the right wheel isn't spinning any more. Then when both tires are getting traction, it should work like an open differential. But that doesn't appear to be happening.
Do you think this is a differential problem? Or is it still a chassis problem? Is this a somewhat know failure of the Eaton Gear? I did a google search but couldn't find anything.
They wear out over time. They rely on internal friction, so as they wear you get less friction - and less function.
Having said that, does the car try to pick up the inside rear wheel under corner entry?
Having said that, does the car try to pick up the inside rear wheel under corner entry?
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Well, the issue is, they aren't perfect, by design. It can only transfer so much power from one side to the other. You have found two unique situations where you are asking it to do more then it can do. My only solution for you is ask less of it by, suspension adjustment, stickier tire, more weight over the drive tire etc. You would have to work around its flaws.
The Truetrac is marginal for roundy round stuff. Guys on street tires will think it's fine, guys on slicks in stock style suspension cars will know it sucks. Without being able to fix the CG location you will unload it, you will spin the inside rear. I'm trying to find an alternative that does not involve ditching the 10 bolt. Have not found one yet.
Trending Topics
OS Giken will do it but they require purchase of two at $2500 each as well as sending them an entire rear to use to design it. At 5k I'll just bump class and spend that money on a full floater 9 with camber and a DPI Platinum
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
