1ScrudeDude

Which do you guys like? I have the Strange 12 Bolt and they tell me to use NON synthetic 80-90. Why not 85-140? It's thicker, so I would think it would provide more protection and cooling for strip racing.

Comments appreciated...

1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

I think the gears last longer in a M6 car with the thicker 85w-140. Just my personal experience though.

1ScrudeDude

My thoughts as well. Especially since these F Bod rears are notorious for grenading and excessive wear on the ring and pinion.

I spoke with my hardcore hot rod friend (Mustang in the 9's), and he said thinner might be better for greater fluid contact throughout the differential. In other words, the thinner stuff will find it's way into the tighter spaces where friction needs lube.

So, I'm still sitting on the fence with this one..

02WHITEZ

iTrader: (2)

i think i might try lucas 85-140 has anyone used this oil and how many bottles of additive 1 or 2

i don't see how the 85-140 can't get lube all the parts but i don't know? doesn't gm make 85-140 non synthetic?

1ScrudeDude

Yeah, I'm leaning this way, it's just interesting that the manufacturer recommends the 80W-90.

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

Why not make an even mix between the two? 1 part 80W-90 and 1 part 80W-140.

1ScrudeDude

Now here's man who's got his thinking cap on and thinking "outside the box." ****, I already bought it though, Lucas 85W-140 with limited slip additive already in it.

Protection should not be an issue

We'll see at Bradenton this weekend with 20+ passes

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

i used 85w-140 in mine, i poured a bottle of additive in each bottle of gear lube so i knew i would have equal distribution, and it makes it easier to get it in there. i took a piece of like 1/2" or 3/8" fuel line and plugged it into the case and the other end over the lube bottle. i was able to squeeze it in there untill i was able to bend the bottle and put it up above the hole.

i used the heavier oil hoping it would ease my gear whine, but it diddnt

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

I run non synthetic 80-90 in mine. After all, its what the people who designed it recommend.

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

Mobil 1 75W-90....made all the noises in my rear go away. (No LS Additive)

NOZR1

iTrader: (5)

I agree with you. If the manufacturer recommends it, then that's what I use.

mySStery_machine

iTrader: (23)

Redline makes some great products, you might want to see if they make one now, I haven't checked yet since I haven't ordered my Strange 12 still. Oh and don't forget from a few months ago if you use Royal Purple it's worth about an extra 10 hp. But I too would go with manufacturers recommendations, they know their stuff!

1ScrudeDude

Well, the 85W-140 is already in.

Thanks for the input folks, but I have talked to some gear specialists around town and although the manufacturer said to use 80W-90, no one thought it would be detrimental to go heavier. I might lose 1 HP or so, but I have had my share of rear end probs, and extra protection sounded good.

After my planned 20+ passes on Saturday, we'll see how it went.

1ScrudeDude

UPDATE:

The slight gear whine is a bit quieter now. It was never bad at all, but now the pumpkin is almost dead silent, even in 5th and 6th at 45-60 mph.

LightweightZ28

iTrader: (2)

Not to drag up an old thread just for the sake of doing it....but I just turned over 1,000 miles on my Strange 12-bolt and talked to Strange today. They told me to use non-synthetic 80-90 OR 85-140 if its a manual......especially if the car will see track time. Also 1 bottle of the additive.

1ScrudeDude

Actually you're timing is good. I changed out my fluid and had some metal shavings stuck to the plug magnet. My gear whine is louder now too after running at the track.

I will have to monitor this

CTSmechanic

iTrader: (2)

Unocal 76 makes prob the best dinosaur gear oil I have ever used 80-140 dosent cool better than 75 90 if anyhting a little worse the advantage is in the film strength of the oil to resist shock caused by strip passes. I swear up and down by Mobil 1 I have run it for years in the most demanding conditions without any problems..heck the stuff dosent even start working untill 260 degrees...

LightweightZ28

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I spoke to Joe yesterday at Strange to ask another question and decided to go over the fluid deal again. He told me to use 85-140 dino oil. He said the 85-140 protected against the shock caused by track use especially for manual cars or ones that use a manual trans brake better than the 80-90. He also told me that even if the car wasn't going to see much track time that he still recommend it for manual cars because that little bit of extra protection would go a long way for longer ring and pinion life. In fact ,he said Strange uses the 85-140 for the break-in period on all the 12-bolts. They use Valvoline brand, but said any major brand dino gear oil would work. He also directed me to use (1) 4oz. bottle of the GM additive EVEN IF the bottle of gear oil claims to already have it in the oil. So, there ya go....just a little more info for anyone who cares.

z-ya

iTrader: (1)

Richmond gl6 spec synthetic gear lube is the best you can use if you have a spool.
DO NOT USE WITH A CLUTCH TYPYE POSI , it will hate you , I know from experience.
No other gear oil carries the gl6 spec ,this is what the strange gear tech told me when
Iwas having issues with my rear.

1ScrudeDude

All the good shops down here always use more additive even if the oil claims to have some in the formula. "Lucas Mucous" says on the bottle that it's already in there.

Consensus is that there's not enough of it, so squeeze the extra 4 oz. in there.