I know I will need a 12 bolt soon but untill I can save up some $ I plan on running crappy tires and just easing off the line.

My quesion is on a hi HP car if you are on the highway or cruising around 30mph and you floor it how hard is that on the rear end? Can that break it?

 

Also, I suppose we should add......say in an auto it drops down to 1st on the punch and in a 6 speed you nail it from say 2nd gear

 

I broke a 7.5 I had punching it at about 45. It was in an Olds, and both rear tires locked up on a busy 2 lane with a gravel shoulder. So it can happen.

 

This solely depends on if you have a M6 or A4. You can destroy a stock 10 bolt from a roll IF you have an aggressive clutch. The stock clutch doesn't transfer as much torque as a quality performance clutch like RAM, SPEC, and/or Mcleod with agressive disks. My 1999 SS had a TPIS H/C package with an original style SPEC stage 3 carbon clutch. The TPIS package along with the Grottyohann longtube headers, Borla, and other miscellanous mods made approximately 370ish RWHP. At the time all four Goodyear F1s were bald. I was coming down a entrance ramp to the freeway and decided to hammer it in 2nd gear. I speed shifted to 3rd and then to 4th. As soon as I hit 4th I heard a LOUD bang and then some terrible grinding noise from the rearend. I pulled to the burm and slowed down. Just as I slowed to 10mph the rear locked up solid. I had the SS towed to a trans/axle shop and they opened the 10 bolt...to find a handful of metal chunks and half the ring AND the pinion gears sheared off clean. So it is possible with a M6 and good clutch. Traction wasn't an issue at all for me at least. Now if you have an A4, don't worry about it. Destroying stock 10 bolts seems to be luck of the draw. I took my 2000 WS6 T/A to the dragstrip in hopes to break the 10 bolt while it was under warranty but no luck I put 26x10.5x16 MT ET STREETS on the WS6 and it has a SPEC stage 3 carbon clutch also. This track isn't your top notch NHRA facility...if you know what I mean. We went on a early spring saturday(if I remember right it was either the opening weekend or the following weekend). The humidity was high due to the moist ground and the track crew didn't even glue the track, not even the starting line! They did however have two small dribbles in the box. I dumped the clutch at 6000rpm each time and powershifted all the way to 4th every time but she never broke So hopefully you'll get lucky like that too!

 

Great post...Thanks! I hope you are right about the auto cars

 

You'll notice there are many members running 10s-11s on the stock 10 bolt. The A4 pre-loads the axle unlike the M6, which jolts or shocks it.

 

If i was you and I broke my 10 bolt they would probably tell me the warranty is void because of the excessive abuse that I put on it. Thats just my luck.

 

The guy who installed my Street Twin said he had another car with a Street Twin break a 10-bolt on a 3-4 shift.

 

My best friend broke his 10 bolt on a 1-2 shift in his lt1 car.........and I broke my 10 bolt off the line...10 bolts are ****. Try to put some money a side so when you do break it you can upgrade to a 12 bolt . Good luck

 

I beat the crap out of my stock rear. I used nitto's at the track many times launching at 4,500 rpm and a bunch of street racing and never broke it. I saw a guy with a bone stock car at the track with nitto's break his rear. I think it has to do with luck if it breaks or not.

 

The 10 bolt I broke in my Olds was an Auto, and all that car had was a 350 Olds with "c" casting heads, cam, intake- pretty mild.

 

I agree there..

I have BFG DR's and a good 150 passes on a stock 10 bolt with 3.73's and an LS6 clutch leaving at over 5000 rpm.. (making between 345-370+ rwhp) I think the key is either luck, or being able to slip either the tires or the clutch.. or both. I "slip/dump" the clutch to take the shock off the rearend and leave at a high enough rpm to get the tires to spin enough to get the car not to bog. I've cut a best of 1.81 60' on BFG's this way at a notsogood track.

 

IMO, there's a couple of things you can do that are inexpensive (relatively) to elongate the lifespan of the stock unit: Swap lubes frequently & install a T/A girdle.

 

It's the luck of the draw. I've seen guys with 600+ rwhp street race on stock 10 bolts for 4 years. And then lucky fellas like me break 10 bolts on a bone stock car.

Nobody can say for sure. 10 bolts overall are junk, but there's a few that came straight outta hell and wont break for ****....

 

eventually everything breaks especially a 10 bolt w/ any kind of power go 12 bolt and wait longer for it to break. as for the members running 10s/11s I bet they dont last one whole season.is that worth that little bit of weight saving to keep break rears ?

 

I damaged my rear end the exact same way. Getting on the intestate I nailed it in 2nd gear with the rpm's up pretty good while getting off the exit ramp and wound it out then snatched 3rd and hit 4th and then let off. Oh, forgot to mention there was a T/A that was messing with me from behind.

Anyway, later down the road we kept messing with each other jumping back and forth and I didnt notice anything until I pulled off the exit ramp to go home and mr rear was popping. I pulled the cover off later and found some small pieces of the spider gears. I removed them and filled it back up with fresh fluid and still drive it but I havent been snatching on it like that. I need a new posi unit.

 

What would you say about an A4 with the stock rear-end and adding a 5-8lbs turbo?