Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
#1
Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
Ok my drivetrain is pretty stout - Cartek clutch, 9" rear, ET Streets, etc.
But I've heard lately of TWO occurences of friends of mine busting the stock LS1 driveshafts when launching.
One was on Nittos and one ET Streets, both have 12 bolts, good clutches, and about 400rwhp.
One of them ordered a Denny's nitro shaft - he said it was chromoly and about $475 with everything they needed (billet yoke and something else?).
My question - should I wait until mine busts, or yank it off and sell it to someone with an LT1 car and put that money towards another shaft?
Is Denny's the way to go?
But I've heard lately of TWO occurences of friends of mine busting the stock LS1 driveshafts when launching.
One was on Nittos and one ET Streets, both have 12 bolts, good clutches, and about 400rwhp.
One of them ordered a Denny's nitro shaft - he said it was chromoly and about $475 with everything they needed (billet yoke and something else?).
My question - should I wait until mine busts, or yank it off and sell it to someone with an LT1 car and put that money towards another shaft?
Is Denny's the way to go?
#2
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
I'll be getting one of these here once I get back together: http://emporium.markwilliams.com/pro...sp?prodid=1006
I felt this at a display and boy was it LIGHT
LAter <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">
[ November 12, 2001: Message edited by: Bob2of3 ]</p>
I felt this at a display and boy was it LIGHT
LAter <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">
[ November 12, 2001: Message edited by: Bob2of3 ]</p>
#4
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
I have a Denny's unit and it's very nice. The standard HD steel is around 300 bucks. It's balanced to 9000 driveshaft rpm!! It is heavy though.
I would tend to be leery of carbon fiber as any nick on it has the potential to cause it to disenigrate. When it's intact and working it's stronger than you will ever need, and probalby the lightest out there, but I would be scared to run one after the first nick or two.
The metal matrix driveshafts are right after the carbon fiber as far as weight. They are also very strong, but I wouldn't reccomend them for hard launching cars over 550+ rwhp.
At that level you need a chrome moly (for light weight if you can afford it) or a simple steel unit (budget). On the dyno the difference is probably on the order of 4-8rwhp.
You are correct on the LS1 unit - for high hp hard launching cars (especially M6's) it is a timebomb. If it goes on you at the track you will be lucky to get away with only replacing the driveshaft.
Chris
I would tend to be leery of carbon fiber as any nick on it has the potential to cause it to disenigrate. When it's intact and working it's stronger than you will ever need, and probalby the lightest out there, but I would be scared to run one after the first nick or two.
The metal matrix driveshafts are right after the carbon fiber as far as weight. They are also very strong, but I wouldn't reccomend them for hard launching cars over 550+ rwhp.
At that level you need a chrome moly (for light weight if you can afford it) or a simple steel unit (budget). On the dyno the difference is probably on the order of 4-8rwhp.
You are correct on the LS1 unit - for high hp hard launching cars (especially M6's) it is a timebomb. If it goes on you at the track you will be lucky to get away with only replacing the driveshaft.
Chris
#6
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
[quote]Originally posted by jhelms:
<strong>Ok my drivetrain is pretty stout - Cartek clutch, 9" rear, ET Streets, etc.
But I've heard lately of TWO occurences of friends of mine busting the stock LS1 driveshafts when launching.
One was on Nittos and one ET Streets, both have 12 bolts, good clutches, and about 400rwhp.
One of them ordered a Denny's nitro shaft - he said it was chromoly and about $475 with everything they needed (billet yoke and something else?).
My question - should I wait until mine busts, or yank it off and sell it to someone with an LT1 car and put that money towards another shaft?
Is Denny's the way to go?</strong><hr></blockquote>
run the stock one - at least until it breaks. We have 40 passes on the stock aluminum running 10.90s - low 11s
<strong>Ok my drivetrain is pretty stout - Cartek clutch, 9" rear, ET Streets, etc.
But I've heard lately of TWO occurences of friends of mine busting the stock LS1 driveshafts when launching.
One was on Nittos and one ET Streets, both have 12 bolts, good clutches, and about 400rwhp.
One of them ordered a Denny's nitro shaft - he said it was chromoly and about $475 with everything they needed (billet yoke and something else?).
My question - should I wait until mine busts, or yank it off and sell it to someone with an LT1 car and put that money towards another shaft?
Is Denny's the way to go?</strong><hr></blockquote>
run the stock one - at least until it breaks. We have 40 passes on the stock aluminum running 10.90s - low 11s
#7
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
John, I've thought about this after watching you run the other night. I didn't know if you were still running the stocker or not. You will break it soon I'm afraid.
I would talk to www.markwilliams.com about doing you a metal matrix shaft. It's as light as C/F, almost as strong (good for low 9 second cars) and is about $500-$550. <img src="images/icons/cool.gif" border="0">
I would talk to www.markwilliams.com about doing you a metal matrix shaft. It's as light as C/F, almost as strong (good for low 9 second cars) and is about $500-$550. <img src="images/icons/cool.gif" border="0">
Trending Topics
#8
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
horsepower, is that with an M6? And what kind of 60 fts are we talking about.
John will be running mid 10s or faster before long (ran 11.0 this past weekend) with his M6 car.
John will be running mid 10s or faster before long (ran 11.0 this past weekend) with his M6 car.
#11
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
[quote]Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong>I've also heard nothing but good about Denny's Driveshafts.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Did you get my email asking you about John? That's the guys's name that was at Applebees right?
Think he would want to do what I have planned? <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
<strong>I've also heard nothing but good about Denny's Driveshafts.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Did you get my email asking you about John? That's the guys's name that was at Applebees right?
Think he would want to do what I have planned? <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
#12
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
[quote]Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong>horsepower, is that with an M6? And what kind of 60 fts are we talking about.
John will be running mid 10s or faster before long (ran 11.0 this past weekend) with his M6 car.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Colonel - thus far we are talking 4L60E, ET streets and 1.50-1.54 short times with the wheels up 8-10". I have a conveter on order and will report capabilities on quicker (1.4x 60 fts) soon....assuming traction doesn't become an issue.
The suspension is stock with the exception of boxed in control arms and panhard bar. No sway bar too. The only weak link so far is a recently broken torque arm - to - trans mount. The rubber broke up and the bracket bent.
<strong>horsepower, is that with an M6? And what kind of 60 fts are we talking about.
John will be running mid 10s or faster before long (ran 11.0 this past weekend) with his M6 car.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Colonel - thus far we are talking 4L60E, ET streets and 1.50-1.54 short times with the wheels up 8-10". I have a conveter on order and will report capabilities on quicker (1.4x 60 fts) soon....assuming traction doesn't become an issue.
The suspension is stock with the exception of boxed in control arms and panhard bar. No sway bar too. The only weak link so far is a recently broken torque arm - to - trans mount. The rubber broke up and the bracket bent.
#13
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
[quote]Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong>horsepower, is that with an M6? And what kind of 60 fts are we talking about.
John will be running mid 10s or faster before long (ran 11.0 this past weekend) with his M6 car.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Mid 10s, M6.....hmmm. I see what you are saying, something will be popping soon.
<strong>horsepower, is that with an M6? And what kind of 60 fts are we talking about.
John will be running mid 10s or faster before long (ran 11.0 this past weekend) with his M6 car.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Mid 10s, M6.....hmmm. I see what you are saying, something will be popping soon.
#16
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
[quote]Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong>Which one you gettin' John?</strong><hr></blockquote>
I guess a Denny's - someone on here was saying they got a nice one for $360 shipped.
Mine grenaded after my 11.6 N/A run at MMP this past Sunday.
If you come up early to B'ham for the Feb 23rd shootout let me know! <img src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" border="0" alt="[chug]" /> <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
<strong>Which one you gettin' John?</strong><hr></blockquote>
I guess a Denny's - someone on here was saying they got a nice one for $360 shipped.
Mine grenaded after my 11.6 N/A run at MMP this past Sunday.
If you come up early to B'ham for the Feb 23rd shootout let me know! <img src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" border="0" alt="[chug]" /> <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#17
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
I just ordered my Dennys Nitro Shaft. It was very nice speaking with Denny, he knows his stuff, and stands by his work. I'd recommend them to anyone. Came to about $360 shipped.
#18
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
$360 is cheap for one that'll take nitrous and full tilt clutch drops on slicks. For lighter weight you might consider the metal matrix shaft from Mark Williams. That's the one they were recommending for me with a transbrake running mid to low 9s. Supposed to be as light as Carbon Fiber. I'm thinking it was going to be about $550. Now I told them I want 8s so they said for me to go for the C/F shaft.
Heck yeah we're planning on coming to Steele Feb. 23! <img src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" border="0"> I'll give you a call when we're on the way up. <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Heck yeah we're planning on coming to Steele Feb. 23! <img src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" border="0"> I'll give you a call when we're on the way up. <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#19
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
Just to add to the discussion, there is NO weight difference between a steel shaft and a chrome moly shaft. If you look at the specs. they are both 3" o.d. x .083" tubing. The 4130 would be much stronger, but there is no weight difference.
#20
Re: Which DRIVESHAFT do I need?
When I spoke with Denny during the ordering process, he strongly recommended getting the billet trans yoke. He said it was not uncommon for folks with M6's to twist the splines on the standard Spicer yokes that come with the Nitrous Ready shafts. I went ahead and got the billet yoke for peace of mind.