SSnakekiller

iTrader: (8)

Well, after 1 week the bottom bolts that attach the torque arm to the rear end completely came out on the street somewhere.

I didnt even know until I was doing some work on the underside. I got the car on the lift and I was like WTF!!???

The two bolts were gone.

It beat the living **** out of the end of the torque arm (BMR), but I was able to fab it back to a useable condition.

This was a few weeks ago and I didn't think anything of it, but I just found this on the BMR web site:

This product is only warrantable on rear axles that utilize the factory style "through bolts" to connect the torque arm to the rear end. Moser 12 bolt rear ends utilize a threaded bolt hole that has been proven to have bolt retention issues when used with aftermarket torque arms. If you have this particular rear axle, understand this warranty disclaimer and still wish to use this product, keep in mind that lock washers, or Loctite brand thread sealants are not substitutes for periodic bolt inspection.

Anyone know anything about this? THey even say loctite and lockwashers may not even be suitable.

Then wtf do you use??????

TAGOES11S

iTrader: (13)

Locktight and lock washers, and check them often......................

Tranzor

Yep, that's what I do... use a good deal of the red loctite, plus a lock washer. Mine have stayed pretty tight, but I check them regularly. I get under there and make sure they're ok right before I go racing and then again right after...

HBHRacing

the flange of the aftermarket TQ arms are thicker. The bolts that they send are for the stock arm. so you might need a slightly longer bolt for more threads to hold it. Get the longest bolts that will fit, lock tite them and make sure they are tight. Then recheck them before every time you hit the track or once a month.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

Thats why Strange uses the factory straight thru bolts.

WickEdSix98

iTrader: (4)

I used lock washers and blue loctite on my bolts. After the first week, they were not at 80 ft lbs anymore but they were still fairly tight. After a few weeks of checking them and re-tightening them, they will eventually stay put.

02BlackBullet

iTrader: (60)

PM me if you guys would like to get a set of longer Torque arm bolts that will be a much better set-up as opposed to loc-tite and crawling under your car every week.

rhaig

I always thought that there was just red and blue loctite. A friend was telling me that there is stronger loctite. I think he mentioned yellow and black which are for more "permanent" applications. You think this would work?

rhaig

UPDATE on threadlockers:

Purple- low strength, easy removal, small fasteners
Yellow - low strength
Blue - Medium strength, many formulas
Black - Oil resistant
Red - High strength, with many formulas
Orange - Extra strength stud lock, small studs
Pink - Low/medium strength for plastic
Black - High strength for plastic

Go with EXTRA STRENGTH Red, it has the greatest shearing strength. And all this time I thought threadlocker was threadlocker til I researched it.

jerflash

i got longer grade 10 bolts but they were a lil to long so i used a lock waser ofcourse and used a couple of flatwashers to make up the difference. i also used alot of the very high grade red locktite. no need for a tq wrench i just pulled on them till the would not go any more and they have not moved since

obrien24

iTrader: (2)

What legth bolts are you guys using?

dc4bill

iTrader: (1)

Has anybody thought of using safety wire? If you wire it to where they are pulling each other tight it shouldn't be able to loosen. I'm having holes drilled into the bolt heads tomorrow to attempt a permanent fix

dc4bill

iTrader: (1)

Has anybody thought of using safety wire? If you wire it to where they are pulling each other tight it shouldn't be able to loosen. I'm having holes drilled into the bolt heads tomorrow to attempt a permanent fix

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I've never seen anyone bump a post a full ten years, congratulations. lol
Yes, people have used safety wire to keep these bolts tight. http://shop.brutespeed.com/UMI-2998-...-02-F-Body.htm
This kit from UMI though should take care of the problem. Bob

TurboS10

iTrader: (12)

That's funny...10 yrs

I plan on lock wire also.

Blue locktite won't last especially if you're checking the torque all the time and cracking the seal so to speak.