d james

I think that chart doesn't take into account wind resistance and so it shows a higher speed than what the car would do. I know some of the chart is right cause its exactly what my car does. For instance 70 mph in 6th is at 1900 rpm. I imagine some cars will be slightly different.

Far as what gear to use-like I said before I think these cars work wonderfully with 4.10 gears, personally I think 3.73 would be a waste of your money and wouldn't make a big enough difference. I don't like modes to cars that make them less driveable, such as big cams, whining gears, leaking headers, bad smell from no cats, etc. With the 4.10 s the car has the exact same manors as before-i do have a slight whine, but its barely there, other than that the car drives like stock, except for the extra pulling power. GM should have put these in from the factory. My gas mileage has stayed the same providing I stay off of the pedal. I really think 4.56 gears would be perfect with these cars, but it requires more work and the rears are to weak for them, otherwise I would have gone with that gear. My old 4.10 rear from 95 formula car saw numerous track times with drag radials launching from fairly high rpms, and it never broke, using a line lock might have helped pre-load the rear and put less stress on it-not sure but like I said it held up well for a 6 speed car. driving on the street is so much more fun as well, before the gears i didn't get to excited about driving, now I have to every couple days or I start to go nuts.

MannyZ28

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking of getting 4.10 too.

Now, about breaking them.....if you consider I have 315's in the back and a Spohn Crossmember mounted adjustable torque arm.....since I actually get more traction because of this combo, should I worry more about 4.10 breaking faster? Lets put it this way, the way the car is setup right now, I can hit second and spin the tires for a good 3 seconds with absolutely ZERO wheel hop thanks to the BMR LCA's and the Torque Arm. I can also dump the clutch at like 2500 rpm and spin like a raped monkey from a 15 mph roll. This is all before I install my cam which should add a few more ponies, see sig for current mods and dyno numbers.

I never take the car to the drag strip, and I don't run slicks or anything crazy like that. Does the torque arm make it more likely for the rear to break with 4.10s because it adds traction, or does it help to not break them because I have no wheel hop at all?

Thanks!

Manny

1Talented

if you get 4.10's and launch hard a few times will your rear break?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

According to this forum, 4.10s will break your rearend if the UPS man walks the package containing said gears to close to the car in your driveway.

In actuality, the life of your gears and rear end depend on many factors. Installation, gear choice and brand, breakin, tire choice, suspension mods, and most importantly, driving style / launching technique.

BQTransAm

iTrader: (1)

4.10's got my vote. I am getting ready to do a m6 swap, and the local guys all told me 4.10's are the best choice.

89lx-ls1

iTrader: (23)

4.10s definetly I went 8.51 with only 4.10 in my 99 everything else was completly stock and on a shitty set of 315/35's

2001FireBird

just broke in the 3.73s and damn Im lovin it. Had stock 3.23s and acceleration feels so much better. I'm running on stock 235's but soon to have 275s or maybe 285 in the rear.
Stock a4 and suspension. I havnt' launched yet cuase I'm scared of breaking anything, esp the tiny 10bolt we got. But yeah, for the mean time. I'm lovin the new gears. 373s got me.

jRaskell

iTrader: (1)

What information did you type in? Stock, it puts you right at 184mph at 6k RPMs in 5th, 211 at 7k RPMs. With 4.10s you're at around 176mph at 7k RPMs. I've used that page for several different setups and it's always been fairly accurate, so I'll have to say the error is in the info you typed in.

Stock M6 gearing is...
1st 2.66
2nd 1.78
3rd 1.30
4th 1.00
5th 0.74
6th 0.50

Axle 3.42

Tire Diameter 25.66 (this will of course vary by fractions of an inch from tire to tire, and from new tires to worn tires, possibly as much as half an inch)

As for the gears, of all the stories that they've broken on, how many of those were on street tires and NOT clutch dumped? The stock 10 bolt regardless of what gears are in it has been known to break with any sort of sticky tire and/or really hard launching (even on street tires).

Moonder

M6 go with the 4.10

OOOJOHN

go 410s or go home

AaronR

iTrader: (8)

Im in the same boat debating on gears and I have to ask.If a car doesnt hook up good with 3.42s ,what is the advantage of getting 4.10s and not being able to hook at all?

pasbonsimon

iTrader: (12)

if you only have a bolt on car and 3.42s and you can't hook, you need better tires

krexken

No street tire will hook good. A compromised launch must be done to get your car rolling without shredding the tires although there are some tracks that really suck and you'll never hook no matter what. I kinda have to bog my car out of the hole to or I can dump it and go instantly up in smoke. By using a low rpm clutch abusing launch, I can stay fairly well hooked up. You just have to find your car's sweetspot. What's killing my 60' and et is the fact that my car doesn't have much ooomph to get the rpms back up in first gear. Lower gears will make is easier to accelerate through first gear. Once you're outta first gear, gearing really makes very little difference on acceleration.

8GTOKLR

iTrader: (6)

I would think a 4.10 or 4.56 you could slip the clutch at 1200-1500 then mash the throttle..I do it with the 3.42 should be even easier with the lower gears

Tdawg

i just ordered 4.10s my self, now my ? is what is the average price of install on that

FUN LS1

I was anxious beforehand, too. But I'm really happy with my 4.10's. Just installed them last week. I lost about 15 mph at 2000 rpm in 6th, and it takes a little getting used to the new shifting pattern. While you can get into gears a lot sooner, which is how you'll save mpg (3rd at 20mph, 4th at 25mph, 5th at 35mph, 6th at 55mph), the gears still seem to have great range in speed 'cause the LS1 revs so high. Your car will not be a Hwy cruiser any more though, but it will quick as shiznit. Haha, you'll be looking for chasis and suspension stiffeners next, like me. Also, I'm worrying more about 2nd to 3rd shift, or worse 3rd to 2nd while trying to hit 4th, so I'm thinking about a shifter change... ...'nother thread...

PS - my new gears were GM 4.10's from SLP, and I can't hear them at all.

FUN LS1

$65 - $165

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I guess it depends where you live. The shops around me routinely charge between 300 and 500 just for the install, you have to supply the gears and the bearings and seals. I wound up just doing it myself.

stangereater

I put a set of 4.10s in my car 2000 TA M6 and i love it but some times i wish i had even put 4.56s in it. Am i the only one that had problems with the split paddle gettin it to fit i had to machine off 1/8 on a inch.

FUN LS1

Buying the paddles is such waste of money! A hundred-something bucks? Get real! rinding off the 1/8 inch is defintely the way to go, and screw the paddles...

Week 2 on the 4.10's and I love 'em more every day. I can't wait until break in is over. I've been shopping around for DRs. Anyone run the Nitto 555r or g-Force DR? Can 35mm or 40mm tall tire really be an effective DR? I was going to go with 18"x10" with 305-35's DRs on the back and 17"x9" with 275-40's (g-Force KDWs) on the front.