10 bolt build up
1) does the TA girdle really strengthen the rear end?
2) I have seen some mini spools for our 7.5 10 bolt. Would this make it stronger?
3) Anybody make strong axels for the 10 bolt?
4) What are the strongest gears(brand)
5) what are the limits of the 10 bolt?
6) anybody have a fast car and still running one w/o problems?
Marty
I kinda figure that w/ the girdle/spool/axels/ and a new ring and pinion the 10 bolt should be pretty stout. Am I wrong in this assumption? <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">
Just save up the $2000 and buy a real rear end.
<strong>How long will a girdle and 3.73's last with DR's.. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
I am curious on this one too.
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<strong>The gears will last until they break.</strong><hr></blockquote>
i'm sorry sitting here at work this just cracked me up!
<img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> <img src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" border="0" alt="[jester]" />
A few things are the natural enemy of the stock rearend...
-traction
-wheelhop
-slicks
Everytime I have seen someone ignore wheelhop it has cost them a rearend.
<strong>How long will a girdle and 3.73's last with DR's.. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
I have an A4 with YANK ST3500 and had 3.73's in the 10 bolt, it lasted 13 sub-2.0 60' passes, roughly 7 or 8 of those passes were 1.7 60's... this was on BFG DR's... hope this helps. I have a Moser now! <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
- Weld the axles tubes all the way around the housing - from the factory they are just tacked in two spots per side
- Solid bearing spacer in place of the pinion crush sleeve - supports the pinion and helps keep the it from climbing up the ring gear
- Support cover - save yoursedlf some money and get one from Summit, it's the same thing and is $30-$40 less
- Moser axles
Keep higher gears in it, 3.73 are about 50% the strength of 3.42.
All told, I have less than $400 into the 10 bolt. I've got a few dozen passes on it since I did the work (minus the axles, they're sitting in the basment still). I generally cut high 1.8 to mid 1.9 60' times on F1s, but my car is no much of a beast, generally 12.8-13.0 @ 108-109. My planning will be tested this season as I am going to a PY3600E, DOT slicks and nitrous.
I deally I'd rather have a 12-bolt, but want to put off dropping $2500 as long as possible. Who knows if I break this one maybe I'll just do another 10-bolt depending on how long it lasts.
If you want some more information shoot me an email direct.
When mine broke I had the choice of rebuilding for about $1,000 or buying a 12 bolt for $2000 ($2175 out the door). I made the better decisions which was to buy the 12 bolt and be done with it and not have to worry about breaking it for a long long time.
I think it's all about set up and parts choice. Bearing cap studs are a VERY wise choice to keep things in place. I have an Eaton posi, MAC cover, Richmond 4.10s, and bearing cap studs. I haven't had the Eaton out on a track yet, but my STOCK torsen differential with the exact same parts held up to a more than a dozen low 1.6 second 60' times on ET Streets, with the best being a 1.612. It finally broke when I came off the line spinning had and hooked suddenly...sounded a lot like a hand grenade. This rear also still has the stock axles in it. This weekend I'm going to try to break my way into the mid 1.5 range with it.
6 speeds may kill them, but an automatic car with a properly built 10-bolt will last...
i took it to DTS and they had to straighten out the tubes & weld them to the center section new bearings and diff cover and a new set of 4:10 gears. up till that point i had all bolt ons on my car; after i redid the rearend i did a head and cam swap and that 10 bolt held up beautifuly.
i am currently running a 12 bolt in my camaro but recently bought a T\A that's gonna be my DD with the stock rear on it and im planning on doing the same with that rear as i did to the 10 bolt when it was on the camaro.






