New 9" installed!
New 9" installed! Got my DLS Moser 9" in this weekend! 
Had some difficulty with the conversion u-joint not being the right part, but that was fixed today. Went for a short test drive, and the whine is hardly noticable. Nothing more than I would expect from a performance rearend. The 31 spline Detroit Locker is not harsh at all, you can't feel it. You can however hear it clicking and clacking on slow turns 
. Again, something I was expecting. The 3.89 gears seem just right for now, (I have not finished the breakin so no hard stuff yet) 60mph is right on 1,500 rpm with my 315 DR rear tires.
I am very pleased with the rear, and DLS and Scott's customer service when my first axle shipment was bent and beat up. Top notch team at DLS
.
Had some difficulty with the conversion u-joint not being the right part, but that was fixed today. Went for a short test drive, and the whine is hardly noticable. Nothing more than I would expect from a performance rearend. The 31 spline Detroit Locker is not harsh at all, you can't feel it. You can however hear it clicking and clacking on slow turns . Again, something I was expecting. The 3.89 gears seem just right for now, (I have not finished the breakin so no hard stuff yet) 60mph is right on 1,500 rpm with my 315 DR rear tires.I am very pleased with the rear, and DLS and Scott's customer service when my first axle shipment was bent and beat up. Top notch team at DLS
. Awesome to hear. I will be getting a Billingsley street 9 inch over the winter, with a 4.56 and a locker. Too many stories about 12 bolts not being set up right, or blowing up after a couple clutch dumps,"buy it once,buy it right". But I don't want to turn this into a 9 inch 12 bolt battle
. So congratulations on the purchase i will soon be joining you!!!!!!!
. So congratulations on the purchase i will soon be joining you!!!!!!! There was no 9" vs. 12 bolt battle for me. Buy strongest first and do it once as far as I am concerned. So I lost ABS. Big deal, I have never had to hit the brakes so hard to avoid trouble that I activated the ABS 
. Gives me an excuse to ditch the ABS block and install a proportioning valve .
. Gives me an excuse to ditch the ABS block and install a proportioning valve . 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 0
From: 32639 Groesbeck HWY. Fraser MI 48026
Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
Got my DLS Moser 9" in this weekend! Had some difficulty with the conversion u-joint not being the right part, but that was fixed today. Went for a short test drive, and the whine is hardly noticable. Nothing more than I would expect from a performance rearend. The 31 spline Detroit Locker is not harsh at all, you can't feel it. You can however hear it clicking and clacking on slow turns . Again, something I was expecting. The 3.89 gears seem just right for now, (I have not finished the breakin so no hard stuff yet) 60mph is right on 1,500 rpm with my 315 DR rear tires.
I am very pleased with the rear, and DLS and Scott's customer service when my first axle shipment was bent and beat up. Top notch team at DLS .
Had some difficulty with the conversion u-joint not being the right part, but that was fixed today. Went for a short test drive, and the whine is hardly noticable. Nothing more than I would expect from a performance rearend. The 31 spline Detroit Locker is not harsh at all, you can't feel it. You can however hear it clicking and clacking on slow turns . Again, something I was expecting. The 3.89 gears seem just right for now, (I have not finished the breakin so no hard stuff yet) 60mph is right on 1,500 rpm with my 315 DR rear tires.I am very pleased with the rear, and DLS and Scott's customer service when my first axle shipment was bent and beat up. Top notch team at DLS
.What mph does the whine come in and out? What oil was used for break in?
Hi Scott, when starting from a stop I hear just a bit untill say 20 mph. After that I can't hear it over the exhaust and road noise. When I let off the gas, I hear it at most speeds. If I turn on the radio I can't hear it period. Still in the break-in period. I don't even have 100 miles on it yet. I am totally not worried about it as I have removed the sound deadener from the carpet, and the rear trunk area. Like I said, it is no worse than I expected from a performance rear. Valvoline non-synthetic 80W90 is in there for now. I may change it in 500 miles or so. If I can find some Kendall I will use it. Is it possible to change the oil without removing the torque arm bracket? Seems like a real bitch any way look at it.
Thanks again Scott !!!
Thanks again Scott
!!! Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 0
From: 32639 Groesbeck HWY. Fraser MI 48026
Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
Hi Scott, when starting from a stop I hear just a bit untill say 20 mph. After that I can't hear it over the exhaust and road noise. When I let off the gas, I hear it at most speeds. If I turn on the radio I can't hear it period. Still in the break-in period. I don't even have 100 miles on it yet. I am totally not worried about it as I have removed the sound deadener from the carpet, and the rear trunk area. Like I said, it is no worse than I expected from a performance rear. Valvoline non-synthetic 80W90 is in there for now. I may change it in 500 miles or so. If I can find some Kendall I will use it. Is it possible to change the oil without removing the torque arm bracket? Seems like a real bitch any way look at it.
Thanks again Scott !!!
Thanks again Scott
!!!Didn't I put a drain on it? I do like to take them apart and brake clean it out, you'll see all of the fosfate stuck all over the inside. Even brake clean out the center, just remember to prelube the bearings before installing so you do not have dry bearings for a few miles. She'll be fine though, Enjoy. P.S. you can fill through the vent also, just remember to let out the trapped air as to not blow out the seals.
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Yes there is a drain on it. I did pre lube the bearings. I was more worried about getting oil into the housing through the stock fill hole in the Strange Center section after draining it .
Maybe a couple extensions will get the plug out, and then Get myself a funnel with a long hose on it....................yeah, that will work to change fluid
.
Maybe a couple extensions will get the plug out, and then Get myself a funnel with a long hose on it....................yeah, that will work to change fluid
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Excellent choice, I have been talking with Scott for seems like forever now (week + in reality) and he has answered every question, some of them asked more than once cause I was so damn happy to finally get some answering I couldnt believe it. Spooled Race 9" will be ordered soon. GL and enjoy it.
Charlie
Charlie
Good choice on the 9". How much do you have wrapped up from start to finish? I've been starting to look into getting me a new rear and think the 9" is the best but haven't priced all the parts yet.
Originally Posted by MountainMotor
Good choice on the 9". How much do you have wrapped up from start to finish? I've been starting to look into getting me a new rear and think the 9" is the best but haven't priced all the parts yet.
Well hold on to your hat.
I just picked one up.
Housing and axels – 800
Set up for abs – 250
Detroit locker or tru track center section
Nodular case / 1350 billet yoke – 1100
3” u-joints to hold on the sway bar – 10
paint if it don’t come powder coated
por 15 – 20
por solvent so you can thin the paint for the spray gun - 20
conversion u- joint – ?
or new carbon fiber drive shaft w/ 1350’s – 1000
sandpaper to sand and repaint a few f-ups on the paintjob – 2.79
hp gear oil - ?
new torque arm cause you should – 600
adj. Lca’s and adj phb to center everything just right – 500
what else?
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 0
From: 32639 Groesbeck HWY. Fraser MI 48026
Originally Posted by TTSSZ
Well hold on to your hat.
I just picked one up.
Housing and axels – 800
Set up for abs – 250
Detroit locker or tru track center section
Nodular case / 1350 billet yoke – 1100
3” u-joints to hold on the sway bar – 10
paint if it don’t come powder coated
por 15 – 20
por solvent so you can thin the paint for the spray gun - 20
conversion u- joint – ?
or new carbon fiber drive shaft w/ 1350’s – 1000
sandpaper to sand and repaint a few f-ups on the paintjob – 2.79
hp gear oil - ?
new torque arm cause you should – 600
adj. Lca’s and adj phb to center everything just right – 500
what else?
I just picked one up.
Housing and axels – 800
Set up for abs – 250
Detroit locker or tru track center section
Nodular case / 1350 billet yoke – 1100
3” u-joints to hold on the sway bar – 10
paint if it don’t come powder coated
por 15 – 20
por solvent so you can thin the paint for the spray gun - 20
conversion u- joint – ?
or new carbon fiber drive shaft w/ 1350’s – 1000
sandpaper to sand and repaint a few f-ups on the paintjob – 2.79
hp gear oil - ?
new torque arm cause you should – 600
adj. Lca’s and adj phb to center everything just right – 500
what else?
$4318.00??? WTF Ship it to MI. and I'll install everything for $3750.00.
Originally Posted by 1BAD86Z28
$4318.00??? WTF Ship it to MI. and I'll install everything for $3750.00.
do that include the c.f. driveshaft w/ 1350's
front and back and billet yokes, -n- case, datona support, and top of the line tk arm made to be mounted to the trans crossmember?
I got the c.f.d.s, lca's and phr, used
and the center section I had, and got rebuilt
so I did 3471.79 total. -still painfull
Originally Posted by MountainMotor
Good choice on the 9". How much do you have wrapped up from start to finish? I've been starting to look into getting me a new rear and think the 9" is the best but haven't priced all the parts yet.